Justintoxicated

It's going to depend on the dyno you run it on as well. So I guess 63 HP sound about right if you switched to just switched to CPI's 28mm carbs are not much bigger...

I have an axle from my 2000, no bends still looks good (I ride in sand and take care of my stuff) $100 and it's yours. but PM me cause I don't check wanted forum much. Also I can get a pic if you want.

Not to take away form JKJK but I have one from my 2000, in Awesome condition. I pulled it from my 2000 in like 2001 or 2002. Been sitting in a drawer in a ziplock freezer bag ever since. Looks great works perfect too. I will let it go for $80 on the stock plate. For less than $80 shipped I'd rather just keep it... If you get JK's I would get the one with the lamination still on it if I was you. You don't want the wires to rust and cause a short, the windings need to be isolated from each other. Why is the lamination off in the first palce?

Straight distilled will give you great results, however no protection. Water wetter if added appropriately won't offer enough protection alone IMO, but will actualy give you better results than straight distilled. Adding water wetter won't give you much corosion protection either and after some time the water wetter will gum up. I have sceen several people use it in comupter systems (it is what I would use also) but eventualy it looks like stuff floating around in there and it needs to be changed, it has even gummed up some peoples water blocks pretty bad... I like Engine Ice the best for the banshee. IMO it is the best all around, and it's non Toxic which is definately a plus in my book, specialy when it comes time to change it. It also works very well. I get better results with engine ice than 50/50 mix of collant and water + water wetter . Water wetter on the other hand, is EXTREAMLY toxic.

You got it.

still for sale...

still for sale....

if your riding dirt trails you may want to stick to a-arms with sealed balljoints like the alba arms. I have sceen them and they are good arms and easy to setup. Quicksand will give you more adjustabilit though. The cheap elkas are ok, but some people prefer to get shocks with more adjustability. Gotta love adjustments on shocks ! Can't go wrong with custom axis if you have the time and money. Thats probably the most expensive best shock out there out of the box if you get their top of the line shocks. Never rode them myself.

Definately need to have it re-sprung and re-valved for any new size A-arm....At least if you want decent suspension...

Piped banshee with Skate II's I liked 13 41. get a DID X-Ring chain.

Those Elka Elites don't look like mine at all, where is the Low Speed Compression Adjustment? Are those the Long Travel version or something?

Oh Man I dunno, but these elka elites are working sweet now that they are getting dialed in (Over Turkey Day)... Adjustment is awesome and so is the Dune valving! I was worried at first but these are excelent shocks and valving setup for dune riding. Not all elkas even have the same valving, they make a few different setups, they jsut starting special dune valving which you can specify. Dune riding tends to use your high speed valving for all the chop, so it's hard to have a plush ride and not bottem out on the big jumps. But their new valving is setup so give you a ncie ride and still take the big jumps. These shocks are working great for chop and for larger impacts. I feel like I'm floating. I'm not too happy about the rear TCS at this time, I had it redone less than a year ago and I'm thinking it needs to be done again. It was great at first but I have the compression maxed out now and I wish it woudl go another click stiffer. I still have to play with the low speed compression on the elkas but I htinkt he high speed is abotu where I'm going to leave it. Rebound might need a little more tweeking also. I'm SOOOOOOOOO Glad I went with fully adjustable shocks now, you can dial them in perfect! Only problem I am having is the Resevoir is hitting on my upper A-arm if the shock bottems out. I bottemed the shock out before they were dialed in (adjusted way too soft) and yes it hurt too cause it took a pretty high jump... Might have to look into some different A-arms.

The Red Lines are not for sale,I'm using them since I got them back from streamline, the Gray ones are for sale, they have 1 trip on them, so they are as good as new only cheaper! I can get a pic, but if you want to see whatt hey look like go to a store and look in the package, thats what hey look like. Here is a pic fromt he one trip they were used on. still looking to unload them for $55 shipped.

I think it's your front plastics. They seem to be missing.

if I wanted mine black I would have used some high temp engine enamal, I have good luck with duplicolor paints, but have never used that one specificaly. PC would be best though.

did you try lapping the hub where the washers go?

Well you can't really do it with the stock filter, but with a K&N and stock adapter it's a pretty good setup, since the stock adapter never has to be removed since the K&N clamps to it with a hoseclamp... Although, the plastic does have more flex than a billet plate, but it should hold up ok if you know how to tighten the hose clamp properly.

of course, thats what makes our e-penises hard, screw usable power it's all about peak HP braging right

You have a tourch I can borrow sometime? All I have is one of those small butane lighters

oops

So I went to take my wheel hubs off and I can't get that shit off. The Allen heads that attach the brake disc to the hub are onthere damn tight. I got 2 of them off but the others just stripped out It looks as if they were double dipped in loctite... Is my only hope to drill these bastages out? Also they don't wana come the spindle, just wack that shit off by hammering on the brake disc or what?

Douglas Rims are great for sand tires though, they weight one hell of alot less than beadlocks or stock rims, and every pound of rotating mass is like 10 lbs of dry weight. So 4 lbs more times 4 is like removing 160 lbs of dead weight frmo your bike! Well maybe not quite that much, but it definately adds up pretty frickin fast! Course this mostly has to do with acceleration due to inertia....

when you ziptie or bolt the plastic plate to the box, cut off all the plastic support stuff, so it looks like the billet adapter you can buy. Use clear RTV Silicone to ensuer the plate is sealed all the way to the box, I would not trust zipties alone. I ran this setup for like 3 years before I switch to clampons. its makes a pretty big difference from having a lid! Make sure you get an outerwear for your K&N and Re-Jet.