Jump to content

Justintoxicated

Members
  • Posts

    2,897
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Justintoxicated

  1. I love my +2, with porting it's right to the point where the front end is weightless when in the power I can bring it up or drop it down by pulling up on the bars, or shifting my weight a litte forward... Have the front end like this relly helps through the chop and transitions. Helps with draging too, but not as much as a +4 would. I'm mostly setup for dunes as I find drag racing boring after a short while...I might have to sell it though when I switch to cubs, I will probably go with a +4 with 4 mil cubs. I would revalve your shock for ANY swingarm size change, having mine done for a +2 made a HUGE difference. I will re-valve again if I decide I need a +4. Sounds to me like you would be perfect with a +2, my next one may be another quicksand.
  2. Last time I did this I had the cops called on me who told me I don't have the right to sand in front of the store (private property), but if there is one of those green electrical boxes I believe you could stand on it since they are owned by the city. Good Luck. THey told me I could stand on the sidewalk on the street (4 stores down) but that the sidewalk and asphalt in front of the store are private property.
  3. "The round shell is CNC machined from a SOLID billet of 6061 T6 aluminum - as are the mounts which they are connected to." They are a one Piece design meaning there is an spirolocking ring that holds the lights in place. This includes the handle bar clamp. They are in good shape and they can be sceen in various pictures of my banshee. I will try to take a pic of them as is tonight. I will include 2 50 watt OSRAM bulbs if you have a high output stator that can handle the draw (equivilant to 75 watt MR16's in brightness but with an excelent beam pattern) http://www.rickystator.com/pages/Ricky_Sta...let_lights.html Asking 170 + shipping by Money order. I am selling these because I now have 4 HID lights and have no use for them, but for those that don't want to run a battery conversion Osram bulbs are very bright. Thank you drive through.
  4. Buying new for me was only about $1000 more than a used banshee with pipes and air filter (who knows if it was ever re-jetted)... of course there were older ones that were not in as good of shape or J-arm frames for about 3000 less, but I wanted something reliable... Bikes don't depreciate as fast here in Cali.
  5. When I talked to the HQ guys out there, Banchetta and JKJK, heard he was on the trip last year as well, so it was not his first time to the dunes or anything like that. Really leaves a lasting sadness for those who were camped with them, and especially for those who knew him I am sure. I was not camped with the east coast guys so I will let them provide any more details if they choose to do so. My Condolences.... BTW there was more ligt out at the dunes at 1:45 than earlier in the night before the moon comes up...
  6. mmmmm Red Trolly, Amber and Broughtworst boild in it is also very good.
  7. This is the good stuff, don't let the 80 wt fool you it's similar to automotive 30 weight, but is designed specificaly to allow your clutch to work and protect your gears. Others have used regular ATF fine but it must be changed very frequently like every trip or maybe even more than once per trip to gaurantee protection depending on how much you ride. It is generaly missing an adative that helps with the wet clutch so it wears out faster. (at least thats what I have read) I don't care about spending the extra $1.50 a quart when changing my oil and I don't have to worry about changing it every trip either. I have had great luck with BellRay Gear saver. I noticed a large improvement over Golden spectro's 80 weight oil. My clutch would start slipping very slightly every so often after more than 1 trip on thr golden spectro, and I have not had a problem since on the BellRay, I change it every 3-4 trips to the dunes, but I would probably go longer without a problem. The BellRay looked much thicker and I kept hearing about losing HP if you use thicker oil, however I mis shift less and feel it offers better protection, so well worth it IMO. It's also cheaper than I was getting the spectro for also. I took the banshee out for at least 1 trip a the end of the season, possibly 2-3 trips and when I changed the oil, and it still looked like new.
  8. yea new castle is very good, a little flat but very tasty, just taking a brake from it and Guiness comes in cans that fit in the cooler on my banshee which is definately a plus lol.
  9. Sounds like too much carb for your mods... Even with porting you probably would not 35's unless you had a stroker. It will have alot less lowend with those large carbs than it had with the stock carbs.
  10. I hated my Tag Grips and would recomend Renthal grips + Renthal grip glue...My Tag Grips only lasted 1 trip to the dunes.. and after less than a season I had worn almost compleatly through the grip, I do admit they were comfy while they lasted that first trip though.
  11. But they are cast not forged and they are made to vitos specs not weisco's... I hear you can gain a HP or 2 I doubt they would give you 8HP gain though, of course you would be a higher risk of piston failure due to the ports. At least from listening to others that have tried it. Not sure on those specificaly but still...
  12. Well Lately my Beer of choice is Guiness or Boddingtons, Fraizenskainer (spelling) lol or any good german beer over any cheap american beer. But I have tried many many beers, and Budweiser just tasts like shit, if all I can afford is Buttwiper, then I'll save my Pennies and get drunk later. I also like an eclipse (Guiness and Blue moon) or Black and Tan Guiness and Bass (not harps), Carona with lime is good on a hot day if I'm in the mood. Petes is good for a few beers after work. If I want to get drunk I'm not going to drink nasty budweiser, I'll be drinking Captain Mo Private Stock or some good Vodka, maybe some Crown and Coke or some shit, but I'm not going to drink beer that will make me shit all night long because of it's horrible horrible quality and nasty taste. lol Brooke. Just my 2 cents. And Yes I will take MGD in a bottle over Budweiser in any form, I'll just drink twice as much But I'm not a big fan of it either. I used to drink Micky's in Highschool lol...Good times.
  13. run whatever you want but I'm sticking with Weisco. I'm skeptical on the strength of this pistons, ESPECIALY since they are ported. And the eBay ad does not even say wether they are forged or cast, only that they are made in Germany...
  14. With my Fattys no Sprak Arrestors K&N and no special lid I ran stock pilot and 320 main for year. Very near perfect jetting, I would guess with a littl more restrictions a 300 would be about right at sea level. Depending on how much restriction the lid and spark arrestor is. 200-310 would be my guess. I moved the clip on the needle down one position (raised the needle itself one clip) from the stock location. I would only change it one clip if your going to go with a larger pilot but you can play with the needle all you want When you say it just seems to coast running a slightly lean condition will allow the bike to rev but it won't have the power or rev as clean as bike that is spot on. My Guess is go up on the main and fix the needle. Then again I dunno wtf a power lid is I jsut pulled mine off compleatly and put on an outerwear.
  15. I told you it would be FUN! Pumping the bakes and then opening and closing the nozzel (on the caliper) will work, Vacume pump will save you time though... If you get air in the resevor where the outlet is it can be a bitch to get the fluid going, the vacume pump will suck the air that is stuck right there through the lines for sure. With the Rez cover off I found if you pump it a few times then release the pressure on the valve with the brake lever push in, close valve and pump again...
  16. I like the 250R and Banshee, but of course there is a reson I own a banshee and not a 250R, The R's are just not as fast period, ya ya sabertooth, but then you can do cubs on a shee for probably less money. I have sceen some fast R's don't get me wrong but at super HP they seem to get less reliable than many banshees are. They have better geometry on the track and jumping though. I don't see any piped 250R's taking Piped banshess though i dunno what that is about...Unless say the rider weighs alot more on the Banshee.... I ride a 450 and it was pretty cool, but I would not call it the best quad of all time for sure.
  17. From what I hear it might be better than normal Big Bore Shearers,. I heard the Rockets work very well with cubs, at least in peak HP. I think you will be fine with +4 as long as your not going for Drag only.
  18. you will also need a weight distribution hitch and a Brake Controller. We just got one, 20 somethign feet like 21 or 24 or something, gets the job done, Pulls nice with Dodge Turbo Diesel 3500. Holds 100 gallon water, Fuel station indoor and outdoor showers stove and DVD player radio thing, pretty nice.
  19. It's going to depend on pipes too, if your runing shearers then those things hit hard... CPI's are supposed to offer more lowend, so I'm hoping for a smoother power curve with those.
  20. Sounds fine to my I wanna do a Cub and keep my +2 swing arm. Course I don't do much Dragging and like to wheelie around bowls in the dunes every opertunity that comes up. I also liek the wheelie up hills like Olds and Pattons while I'm running them. Anyone can go up a hill fast but not everying can ride up the hill fast doing a wheelie, especialy not on a Banshee heh. But yea if your goign to drag race a longer swingarm is a must, but don't expenct it to handle as well when not dragging in a straight line.
  21. Well if your going to spend that much you might as well spend a little more so you won't have to replace them later!
  22. if your at work it would be a good idea to put your headphones on first lol Noodle Soup. http://www.thanhda.com/community/index.php...id=8931;start=0
×
×
  • Create New...