Justintoxicated

So far I have tried Yamalube, Castor 927 , Bellray MC1, Bellray H1R, and Amsoil Interceptor (50 to one stuff). My least favorite so far is the castor, it gummed up my pipes and coated teh top of my pistons with alot of carbon (checked it after only a few trips). I was probably jetted rich but I won't run it again. (Best smelling so far though!). Constantly have to shake up the jugs because this stuff likes to seperate out of the fuel. Not the best for storing in the banshee tank between trips. Next least favorite is Yamalube, it's just ok oil, not bad not great either. Nothing special about this oil, does not smell terrific, or prevent wear better than other oils I have used. Bellray MC1, good stuff, nice and cheap if you buy the huge jug, I mixed it 40 to one (recomends 50 to 1). Has a unique smell and mi\xzes with oil right away. I sceen my friends cylinders and there still had good compression after 5 years of riding. What I don't like is that it looks a bit different on the plugs when I was jetting and left a strange color. I seemed to have lead fowling on the plugs (bright yellow) when running this oil, but I think that it was due to a different problem. H1R, about the same but does not recomend mixing 50 to one) I think it was a bit less likely to fowl my plugs and probably burns a little cleaner. I mixed this together with the MC1 when I ran out. Disadvantage is that they do not sell it in the huge bottle like MC1. This is one of my favorite oils so far. Amsoil Interceptor. Cleanest burning oil of all these so far, except when the bike has been sitting around. The smell is ok, I am gettign it significantly cheaper than MC1 (even in the big bottle) so I will probably stick with it. This amsoil is ment to be mixed 50 to one like the MC1. I mix it 40 to one. it mixes extreamly easy with the gas. The consistancy of the oil is kinda watery though, I'm not sure if that is a good thing, but it makes mixing faster.... There may be different oils that are better but the extra cost for slightly better wear reduction is usualy not worth it. Basicaly rather than tryin to squeez an extra 6 months or a year out of the motor is not worth the $100's more in oil, I would rather just rebuild so I don't bust a piston or throw a rod. I will NOT be switching to non synthetics anytime soon ever since I started using them the bike seems to run better and I havent lost hardly any compression over the last 2 years. But I'm NOT planning to run alcahol either.

Well if they stop me from riding ill sure as hell find some even worse way to annoy the hell out of them

I spoke to gary today about makig me some upper a-arms, he said he now has a new chromer. I have not sceen there work.

Allies or not I don't think we should be allowing them or any other country to controll our ports in times like this. Common sense to me... You can't declare war on terrorism and beef up security then go and let let someone else run the ports. Especialy someone that is this close to the enemies and so controversial (nice job Bush). Just because the ports were foreign controlled before does not mean they should be given to the UAE, or anyone else NOW. I don't like outsourcing at all or globalization, sure to some extent it is necessary but not to the extent our gov has taken it. We only end up hurting ourselves in the long run when you simply sell out to the lowest bidder to gain the most profits (especialy when the capitalists squander them and don't distribute any of them back to the people). Most americans don't see a dime of the savings, in fact it is more likely they would lose their job or be threatened to be fired than see a penny. Hell they just sent 3/4 the work here at my job overseas to get things done cheaper, while charging the clients more money. I havent sceen a sent, they probably just want me to think I'm lucky they did not fire me, cause I'm sure there would be someone else in another country who would do my job for less. But I doubt the client is happy about the decision!

I can wheelie like crazy if I want to (it's just right cause I wheelie too much with stock length), but I don't even have a long rod 12-port, just regular

Might think about that, thats quite a bit heavier than something like douglas (although you might need the extra strength for your application) I don't remember the numbers but going with C-series over Black lables on my dune machine was something like the equivilant adding like 80-100 lbs to my banshee in dead weight. I like black rims they look good, and no polishing

elkas have a large resevor if your going piggy back make sure the back of the upper arm will clear the rezzy.

Still for sale....Still working on pics.... lol

or a fuxored crank!

sounds like a plugged pilot jet to me....I would start there...

Yea, for sure, riding Inflames Banshee with same porting but different pipes there was a huge difference. THe power was all up top. Sure my 19C domes are contributuing and possibly V-force reeds, but still I think it was mostly the pipes... Damn CPI's are leg burners? Now I dunno if a 4 mil will be better with CPI BB or SB. I'm sure my current porting is better with SB, but im thinking into next season what will be better.

Yea I can get new ones for this price.

it is very likely you will get beat by 450's with only pipes and filter...

so in that graph the red and bleu is what on what setup? heh you have a 4 mil right? my neck hurts from laying on my desk sideways I like the fit of the shearers better, but I would have to get them chromed someplace else cause their finish sucks and mounting hardware isnt great either...You would think by now I would give up on the chrome thing, since every time I end up without my parts for about 3 months.... I thoguht the CPI's gave more lowend. It's is diffucult and chalenging to wheelie a banshee up a hill like olds. While this may be easy on a 4 stroke you hit the gas wrong on a shee and you will wake up under your bike. I don't need lowend like a 4 stroke I need some nice smooth mid-top since that is where you wheelie a banshee, lowened just helps get back on the pipe easier (which is important when you mess up and have to drop the front end) but when I tried the shearers they power hit very hard, this will lift the front end up right away, but as soon as you ease off the gas a bit the front end will go back down, if you hit the gas again before the front is down all the way it will pull too hard and I could go under the bars. in fact I'm a bit skeptical of even putting cubs on my banshee, as this is already going to make it much mroe difficult than the nice smooth power on my 12-port. Ge anyone understand what I am trying to say? I'm looking more for a broad power curve than peak HP, the broadest power curve is what I want, it should be fast enough with cubs no matter which pipes I choose. I'm even thinking about sticking with my 33mil carbs...

I rode my friends bike with the same porting and shearers and I did not like it, no low end and one hell of a hit on top, not going to be easy to hold wheelies up olds pattons china etc with them.. I want something that will work better than my Fattys with my porting but be more optimal for when I get cubs this summer. I know the shearers make more power, but I'm looking for a broader power band with a little more low end. I'm not making a drag bike, but definately not a trail bike either! for some reason non of the Dyno's are showing up on those links.

still for sale.

If your going to run 2 get one spot and one flood. IMO. I just got back from the Prez trip and had no probler running 4 of these babies (with Trail Tech large Battery, Ricky Stator, and RS High Output flywheel, trailtech voltage rectifier). at home when I was sitting idle for some time, eventualy one light would shut off, however you really don't need 4 of these running when your idle lol)..Also I doubt I could run all 4 off just the battery for any lenmgth of time. I like the spots, but 3 of them is just too many, and the floodlights are pretty impressive IMO. I flicked one on when I got to the hill and it light up a good distance in front of me with nice smooth consistant light. Also with the spot on the handlebars I found it hard to see when we hit a really dusty area (like high beams on your car in the fog) The floodlight did not have the concentrated beam and was easier to see. I think I'm going to switch to 2 spots and 2 floods, just need to figure out if I want 2 floods in stock locations and spots on the handlebars, or visa versa or one of each in both locations lol I would NOT suggest running these on a stock stator. IMO, if you have the money for HID's get the stator too, and flywheel if you want to run more than 2 (you don't want them shutting off or draining the battery at low RPM's) Also, trailtechs support has been good, they sent me a new battery and voltage rectifier when I was having problems.

Thats going to depend on gas tank size/weight, rider skill and riders weight, number of paddles, weight of front tires, weight of rear tires, gearing, Torque etc,although typicaly (at least if your setup right) a +4 will still give you an advantage in a drag launch, then again, a +6 witht he right paddles can give you yet a better launch, and a +12 better (if you have the HP and hookup) It's not all about the launch though, Winning a race due to a better launch will also greatly depend on the length of the drags, number of paddle tires HP, gearing etc... All around a +2 is great for about 70 HP, but if you plan to have 90 or 100 a +4 might be a better choice, and will DEFINATELY help in either case for launching in a drag race. (There is no perfect answer for your question) Like I said I mostly dune so I'm setup for riding not dragging and I love my +2, it was too hard to ride with stock length with my mods +2 makes a noticable diference. If you want to drag race more than ride I would go with something longer.

But did he win the race?

Right, and the owner was over the legal alcahol limit (hence why he is saying he is passenger?), Yet the only blood that was found was on the drivers side, even though the owner was bleeding...Interesting...

I have heard various answers as to which perform better with a 4 mil cub. I'm looking to get some new pipes for my 12-port (non stroker) but will be switching to cubs next rebuild. I'd like to see some dynos (preferably from the same place) that show one pipe vs the other. Shearers vs CPI's welcome also, but I'm thinking I want a little mroe lowend and smoother power to make it easy to hold wheelies up the big hills etc. I'm not into drag racing much. Thanks!

Great posts liek this make the HQ a worthwhile place to find good information. 2 Q's 1) I know your using the plate because you said your putting in a 4 mil crank. Why didn't you get 4mm cubs? Seems they would make significantly more power than stock stroke cubs with a spacer plate/cut domes since the porting on them is designed around the stroke? Seems to me you would be better off sticking to a stock length crank with those cubs for best performance. 2) What kind of oil were you running before that tear down and how many years on that motor? The tops of the pistons are very clean, hardly any Carbon build up! I had more carbon than that after 2 desert trips experimenting with castor 927. Cylinder walls are nice and smooth also.

I dunno but the gouge in the cylinder wall dosen't look very promising either.