Justintoxicated

I could not the the 1&5/8 plugs in the OP's post to fit in my cub. I had to chuck them into a drill press and taper them a bit. Just FYI in case anyone else comes across this thread.

I tried Gun Cleaner and metal drywall scraper blade tool, and it was unable to remove it. Steel wool won't do anyting. would a brass wire wheel destroy the chrome?

Almost went over the bars, legs clenched the bike, and melted a 5-6" hole in my riding pants to the pipe. Pipes by Glamisduner, on Flickr It's melted and burnt on there Real good. WD-40 isn't going to penetrate this. Do I need to find someone with a Soda blast machine? Easy Off Oven Cleaner? I read a-lot of things, but usually people are dealing with minor amounts of crud.

<br /><br /><br /> Got Laid off, moved back to San Diego, found a new Job, bought a house, gf moved in, and working alot. That about sums it up. Never bored these days that for sure. I need to get a hold of those guys somehow, I have their old business card, but the number has changed, and their website will not load. Can't find any info.

I pulled the pipes off and my O-rings need to be replaced in my pipe seals, anyone know where I can get a set? Is RIS Still in business I can't get their website to load.

Yea, the hardware store only has button heads or flat tops with a tapered head. I can't find any that are flat on the both the top of the head and bottom... Theres one place that has a ton of stuff, but I seriously have my doubts they will have them. The worst part is I'm already out $24 and I have no screws thanks to UPS. I htink they were supposed to deliver 2 packages that day, but only delivered one, but somehow marked them both as delivered...

So I had one of the OEM case support bracket screws back out of my banshee, which chewed the head off one of my wiseco clutch basket screws. I called wiseco and they shipped me 4 replacement screws for.....$24! Apparently UPS thinks they delivered them but I never got them. They said they can ship me 4 more screws for another $24.... I think I'd rather just not ride anymore if this is the way business is done these days. Anyone know where I can get some similar screws for less? They look like this http://www.partsmonster.com.au/wiseco-clutch-basket-units-p-539.html so they are flat both on top and bottom.

Guess I'm the only one who got a bad kit from fastner guy, only about 1/2 the bolts fit on my banshee, and some not in their intended places. I had to remove all the pivot bolts because they were threaded and too small for the joints (allot of play) and went back to stock. Also the motor mount bolts were not threaded far enough and the bolt shoulder would prevent them from screwing in all the way. There was a bunch of other stuff that did not fit as well but these are the few that I remember.

The coils on the stator for headlights are not the same as those for your ignition. You can have no headlight coil and the bike could still run fine. So your analysis is not necessarily meaningful. Can't say that it is NOT the stator, but other things that will affect ignition electronically is your coil or your CDI, or your plugs. It could be as simple as not having the gap adjusted correctly on your pickup coil that is attached to the stator. It could even be your flywheel (mine went bad last weekend the magnets let loose on the inside of my Ricky Stator flywheel).

Hi, I would like to purchase a stock flywheel that is in near mint shape from someone. Sold mine on here a few years back and my RS flywheel came apart on the inside. Not sure what broke but you can year something rattling around on the inside of it....

I'll be heading out Wednesday night or Thursday morning. Maybe I'll see you out there at the hill or in the dunes. Look for the White Fullbore Banshee with 4 HID's

WSM = great pistons, been running them for a few years now in my Cub motor without any issues. Test with another gauge and make sure the bike is warmed up when you test it before you tear it down for no reason.

Yes get rid of that POS Parking break, it is connected to the TORS system and if the switch inside it is acting up (90% of the time when people mention he TORS system) it's not actually the system but the switch inside the parking brake that trips the system) it will prevent your bike from firing, usualy only one cylinder will kinda work. You can test by unplugging the Switch and the rest of the TORS system, once you verify this ditch the POS and get a parking brake block off and new clutch lever. THe stock one is really bing POS clutch lever anyways. Or if you took the carbs apart maybe you put them together wrong? For replacing the stock POS parking brake I'd go with a Yamaha Factory Racing lever for your best bang for the buck. (Don't mistake what I'm saying for another stock clutch) the factory racing clutch is very nice and adjustable, and sealed if you can find one. Of course ASV is fine too just more pricey and without the guard for dirt n crap

927 really shouldn't need to be mixed 32-1, I'd scrape the crap off your pipes if you have been running it that rich, theres likely to be some buildup. Sounds like motor time to me too unless that compression check if wrong and it's something silly like the parking brake crap not allowing it to start.

I have never done it that way, I would just pull the top of the case off... It might be easier to remove your top end when it comes to putting it back together. Anything that comes out of place you should be able to identify and put back in place. Don't forget you will need to completely clean all the crap off your cases (Yamabond) and re-apply the yamabond evenly when putting them back together, which is another reason why it's easier to put it back together with the top end removed. Which leads to why you probably want to pull the bottom off the top first...Hmmmmm. I'm not sure!

I know... Another non banshee question On my 250R when I twist the throttle I can hear and feel the spring lightly binding up inside the stock carb. It works and runs fine but it's kind of annoying and I'd hate for it to stick open someday. I took it apart but it looked ok to me, anyone know what causes this to happen? I'm looking at this for the exploded diagram http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/pj_expl2.gif

I recently bought a 24' flag and I'm trying to decide the best way to mount it to our Toy Hauler. I avoided the ladder mount because the ladder is angled on Toy Haulers. So I bought one like the Universal Ramp Mount shown here. http://www.polesandholders.com/home.php?cat=2 The one I got only has 2 tabs and larger holes. I don't like the idea of using self tapping screws though. I'm not even sure I want to drill holes into the toy hauler. Anyone have any better ideas that would not require too much work?

I think part of your msg got removed? Do I tap it into the orange wire or the Black and white one instead? I do still have my key installed.

I want to rewire my banshee using 2 of these switches so it works like this http://www.trailtech.net/040-HBS-02.html Switch 1 position 1 = Off Switch 1 position 2 = taillight + 1 headlight (Bottom Left) Switch 1 position 3 = taillight + 2 headlights (Bottom Left + Bottom Right) Switch 2 position 1 = Off Switch 2 position 2 = Top Left Headlight Switch 2 position 3 = Top Left + Top Right headlight I'm not sure how to wire up the kill switch though? (one of them anyways) edit: N/M I found the info. However I would feel much better if someone could verify this. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/switches/010-ELV-72.pdf

If you jet them they will work, you just wont see all the potential of the motor. CPI's are nice pipes if you liked fattys on a stock or ported motor. Shearers are all topend so I would not put them on unless you mostly plan to drag. If thats your goal by all means buy shearers. For your transmission you will likely need a new clutch. Lockup, more plates, or super stuff springs. A nice billet or forged clutch basket and pancake bearing while your in there. What carbs are you running? Stock isn't going to cut it.

Thanks! I hae a feeling I won't be seeing these at the SSSS I was going to put it on my 250R since I already have one with a modded lever for the banshee. But I don't know if I could brig myself to put that ont he 250R (currently has a twist). The stock banshee thumb throttle will fit on a TRX250R right? Because if I get that I'd rather put my old one on the R haha.

I need the entire thumb throttle not just the extensions or lever.

Link? I have been out of the game for a while, is he a site sponsor or something? Google is returning garbage.

I need one, but I don't want to spend a fortune. Just want to price them out before the SSSS.

for $6 hell ya, but at retail im not sure. I own one ASV brake lever and a Yamaha Factory Racing clutch lever (NOT THE POS OEM THAT COMES ON THE BIKE, its MUCH different). At it works great, easy to pull and very adjustable. I won't be replacing it with an ASV until it breaks....then I will get an ASV to match the other one cause they do look cool As far as breaking the factory Racing lever, when I do I will have much bigger problems, like Axle A-arms etc, its already survived one frame!