Justintoxicated

RNBRAD, I hade everything done at one time. Ya I checked my weight, and I'm within 5 lbs of what I was last season. Although probably not as much muscle weight thanks to the desk job lol. I eve figured in a couple extra lbs for the battery since it is under where I sit. I had it valved for 190 and I'm 180 +5 still under 190 lbs... The preload and rebound are still fine but the dampening seems way off. Like I said I have it adjusted Stiff as possible. I tried other settings and it is not as comfortable and bottems out often. I can still bottem it out, after this season (couple more trips hopefully) It will be in dire need of a rebuild.

Matt, In that case check my post in the Product review forum, I will not be sending my shock back to TCS for another rebuild. I guess if you get TCS fronts they will likely be similar to my rear, plan on rebuilding them every year (or every 6 months like they recomend). They told me resevoirs or not the oil they use just goes bad after a year, it does not matter if you have extra oil in the shock resevoris or not. Maybe all shocks are like this but my stock ones lasted alot longer than one season. BTW I did not get teh SCC I woudl imagine that with less travel it would have gone bad even faster.

I really liked it at first, made a world of difference with my +2 swingarm. But a year later and the shock needs to be rebuilt again. I really didn't even ride it THAT much since I don't do any riding in the summer at all, and most of this year I have not been able to jump due to a problem with front arm compatability. It definately has less than 20 dune trips on it. I have the dampening maxed out right now it won't stiffen up at all. Every trip I went out it would get softer and softer untill it felt compleatly sloppy. I just talked to TCS and they tell me they need to be rebuilt every 6 months and that I need to come up with another 100. They say it is normal wear and tear. I have other friends who have not had to rebuild their rears after revalve/respring in years! $200 a year in rebuilds (meaning time down) seems a bit excessive. I swear every trip it got softer and softer I had to re-adjust it. Is this going to be true no matter who valves my shock? I won't be sending it back to TCS for sure now, but might consider switching to an elka rear if it will last longer than a season. Anyone else have any experiences with rebuilt shocks?

You did the right thing, the banshee shock is too benefit from the 3rd spring unless you want a self sagging shock and a little less travel.

For elkas with the same technology the shocks cost more. The black widows have the dual oil lines right? Not a bad idea IMO, but their springs shats and valving are behind the times from my understanding. Never ridden them so I can't recomend elkas over them, but works as a whole just don't seem as good to me. Elkas have one of the best shock bodies hands down, but paying for brand new shocks to be valved by someone else is a waste of $$$ When I ordered my elkas I was asked ALOT of options, I picked expert for ALL of them and have been satisfied with the results. Expert usualy being stiffer than intermediate etc... I had them valved for 200 pound rider (I weight less) and expert in all catagories.

Definately go with Elka Elite Dune Edditions MX shocks tend to sag a bit, but then again you were telling me you were going to get the TCS shocks with the self sag anywyas. Self Sagging are best for the dunes, or hitting whoopsand the combination of things....You lose some travel, but they will be nice and soft in the chop. On shocks like TCS ALOT of the High speed dampening is used up just for Chopp in the dunes. They do valve their shocks well though, but you can't fine tune them to your needs. Which is why I went with the elka elites with dune valving, it uses special valving to take the chop and ALSO dampen hard hits, You should give my bike a ride and see how you like them now that I have A-arms that don't smack my rezzies, I really can't see it getting much better. you can adjust them for cornering (low speed adjustment) like an MX shocks and use the High speed adjustment to get a median between chop and taking big blows. I have a feeling the Dune Valving is make a huge difference in being able to set them up for both. Hell they even have a new elka with a 5th adjustment, which allows you to adjsut the crossover point between the High and low speed valving. A bit complicated for me thouh. I would definately get Axis over the TCS though!

I have the stuff from home depot, the re-enforced ones though, the guy at home depo said it will not work, but they have been on my banshee for 2 years now. They will start to yellow after about 6 months though for like $10 you have enough hose to last for 2 years though if you change it once a year. has anyone Tried Tygon tubing yet? Thats what everyone seems to prefer with liquid cooling computer systems (which don't get as hot but need to be reliable and flexable) but the extra thick tygon sure looks good and is stain resistant..

most of the stock plus on the banshee are watter resistant, they have rubber seals. I wish I coudl find a place to sell the same plugs so I coudl improve my wiring harnes... I can't find water tight 3x2 plus anywhere so I had to use 6x which are quite wide and harder to deal with..

Which Cool head? it could be something like a dome being loose in the head, I got a bad dome a while back and it caused my sparkplugs to back out. The domes were about 1000th of an inch off. Otherwise your detonating. My guess is detonation, how much compression do you have? I run 19CC domes at sea level but my compression is lower due to porting. I mix 50/50, if I was to drop to 18 I would have to run 110, but again I have porting so my compression is only 170.

dont play around just get wider a-arms so your geometry is not all jacked up. Course you will need new shocks too! Otherwise your best bet is offset rims. I guess flipping is is kinda like getting offset rims. Have fun taking the tires off and putting them back on. If your just doing the fronts and have a bead braker go for it.. Don't use spacers if you jump at all... Offset rims and spacers are going to mess up your gemotry and may make it harder to steer.

I had alot of buildup on the top of my pistons from 927. not in the cylinder itself. It also left a buld up in my pipes only after a few trips, I admit I was mising 36 to one and may have been running rich. Take your pipes off and look if your running 927 try scraping some of that black shit off... Or take a look at a motor runnin 927 vs another running a full synthetic and you will see what we are talking about. 927 is NOT a good oil is cold temperatures, it will actualy seperate from the gas at low temperatures. Also it does not mix well and should be shaken up every time before you pour and it not ideal for storing in a fuel tank either. There are other oils that protect as well if not better in a gas motor. But 927 is good stuff if your running alcahol. 927 sure smells good though! Unless your burning alcahol cause that shit reaks.

They should not back out, are you using a stock head? if so you may be getting slight detonation. Need mroe info, like type of head, Compression, altitude, and temp.

Well it's not too hard to decide. Add up New cylinders new head and Powder coat. Then add up the cost of the sleeve, + free install and honing since you get it for free. You COULD just get one sleeve and have the one cylinder fixed up since you can get the work done for free. That might not cost too much then..... Or make your buddy pay for it since he slipped. Or sell you Big Bore kit and get new cylinders. I know I'll be selling mine this summer already ported by passion racing for around 500 Near polished outside painted in metalcast. Sounds like you WANT to run the big more (I would not for reliability purposes) then just buy the one cylinder and have it bored out to match the other. Is your crank even welded? Also your exhaust port should be polished.

It's ok I guess, I think alba has a deal that is similar. Their A-arms are pretty decent too. Don't forget Elka Dunes shocks are different fro elka Dune Eddition Shocks, The dune edditions are jsut different valving, for example I have elka elites "dune eddition". The dune shocks without rezzies are not the best, but they are better than the cheapo works shocks. Thats probably about it though.

T6's should be fine, but for MX/Dune I would think Fattys would be better (more mid range power). Quality of T6's finish is better though. I would keep your T6's untill a deal comes up or someone wants to trade you. With my stock 12-port (not MX style which Im guessing is smaller exhaust port?) I like s 14 tooth up front for the sand, then again I loved a 13 tooth with just pipes and filter. I also reduced a tooth on the rear and it is about perfect for screwing around now.

with FMF pipes and K&N filter no air box lid (only mods). sea level. I ran a 320 main, stock pilot and needle raise one clip (lower c-clip) Ran solid for some time, but slightly rich. I would have switched to a 310 main and called it a day. You "might" need to increase pilot jet one size. Good deal on them, did they come with the O-rings where mount to the motor?. I paid like 500 something for mine new.

I think you mean case oil not crank oil. Crank oil would be pre-mix That does really blow though if thats what the problem is. Checkout your topend while your in there, and make sure your crank has not started to seperate. I have had my banshee several years and never had problems with a crank seal, although there have been replaced once since I was already in there.

it would not matter if it split up or went through one cylinder then the other, the overall flow would remain the same and the temperature of the loop will be the same because of the amount of flow through the loop. Typicaly it is better to run in series (frome one side to the other) Bad things can happen in parallel (if one path has less resistance than the other it will have better flow though it than the other side.) In series the flow through out the loop is constant. I believe the banshee is parallel, probably easier to design it this way, but it would not matter if it was in series... It also would likely not matter where the radiator is located inthe loop (before the engine or after)

Yea it is nice to have them aligned for storage and trailering too, when pushing bikes up ramps etc, otherwise one partof the tire is ALWAYS catching.

Priced lowered to 160 with the special 50 watt Bulbs included

Still for sale. They only fit regular Handlebars.