Justintoxicated

If your at sea level with temps like 60 deg or above, a 340 is probably too rich. I would have bought 280-310 and started with the 310 and gone down from there, your probably better off with around 290 but always better to start rich. But the pilot jet is what should be affecting the banshee at startup. Or maybe you didn't put the carbs back together properly? Under the carb top when you adjusted the needle jet there is a metal piece with a hole in it that has to be put back in properly, The hole should line up with the hole in the carb. If you block the hole in the carb the bike will run like ass, if at all, and you will have all kinds of problems. Also make sure you did not switch any of the left carb parts with the right, or visa versa. Make sure the crossover tube (fuel tubing) between the carbs is attached to both carbs (this is for the choke but the bike won't start easy without it attached). If you are sure all these things are correct does it start/idle better with the choke out? You may also need to adjust the airscrew.

Yep, Brand new shipped directly from CPI. Frame is also brand new fresh out of a crate so it is not like I rolled it or any such thing. CPI does not really seem to care much either, I have contacted them and sent the same pictures to them earlier this week. I called them again today and they had not done anything with the email I sent. They said they would show it to their boss (whoever was on the phone) and they will respond soon, but I have my doubts...

there is advantages and disadvanteges of both but I think PC is generaly better.

does it idle better or worse with the choke out?

removing the airbox lid will require you to mount the adapter plate for the filter. I modified my stock plastic piece by removing the supports (chopping them off) leaving just the back plate. I drilled 2 holes in the airbox and mounting plate. I then siliconed the back plate to the box to create a seal, and secured it with zipties. Cutting off the supports sort of copies the pro flow billet adapter design, and allows you to install and remove the filter without having to remove teh mounting plate.

So many issues, they do look good once installed though.. 1) The stingers would not slide over the Expansion chambers outlet. I expected this to be an issue since it is really common so after a $12 sanding wheel for the dermel and honing out the stinger a bit they would slide together. 2) We noticed the silencer was mounted at an angle to the stinger (right side) and there was a gap between the stinger tube and the silencer. We removed the silencer and found there were some beads left from the welding between them. I knocked them off and then the stinger was nearly flush to the silencer. I still need to buy some high-temp silicon to make a new seal. 3) The next difficulty was on the right pipe. The silencer would not slide over the expansion chamber far enough so that the pipes could be bolted to the frame. We had to take a Grinder and shorten the outlet of the expansion chamber (it was not even straight as if it was cut off at an angle) After some Serious grinding and re-sanding we finally managed to bolt the silencer to the frame (Took 2 people to get it into position and bolt it down) 3) Next came the left side, this side would not fit correctly at all. First we made a spacer out of washers to push the pipe away from the head on the bike. We installed the spacer on the stock pipe hangers pushing it out about 1/2 of an inch away from the hanger. The pipe still hit on the head of the bike. We removed the pipe and I had my friend carefully make some precision dents with a ball peen hammer into the expansion chamber on the pipe where it has hitting the head. It was hard to watch him make a dent into my brand new $600 pipes. After both the spacer and the dent, the pipe now clears the NOSS head by a mm or 2 and the pipes mount up. 4) The stingers currently are touching the subframe rails... Pic of the dent I had to add to them in order for them to bolt up correctly Another pic of the dent... With just the spacer the pipes would not mount. To avoid the dent the spacer would have to be about 2-3 inches long! And then the stinger would not line up correctly as it would be pointed towards the center of the bike.. Well these were a waste of money so far, got rid of my FMF's because I wanted a better quality pipe...And well there you have it..

It would also be a good idea to disconnect the parking brake and get a blockoff plate. I believe youc an also unplug the cable going to your thumb throttle now. Just make sure you disconnect teh black box like the above poster said.

Carbs may not be the problem but it's the whole system that makes the most noticable gains. The drag pipes are allowing for alot more exhaust flow and less restriction than your T5's on topend. But if your motor is similar to stock then you will not see the gains. You need semi agressive Porting that will increase your exhaust flow and RPM's and which will need more air/fuel which means carbs, filter and reeds. The system works as a whole. If you don't have extensive porting carbs and reeds then CPI's may not be the best pipe choice. I for example just installed Big Bore CPI's even though I still have a 350. Regular bores would likely make more power than the big bores. Why? Because my little 350 really does not need the BB silencers, but I have plans to upgrade later and I know the BB's will respond better,and run cooler once I drop in a cub. In fact T5's could easily make more power on a stock, or lightly modded banshee than CPIs. Thats why T6's perform better on a stock banshee than T5's but don't respond as well to agressive porting. Now on the bright side, even if you don't see large gains now, the CPI's should respond better than the T5's with the more mods you do in the future. For example you switch to a ported stroker with carbs and reeds and go up another 25 HJP, rather than 20 like the T5's might provide. The more mods you do to your motor the more HP Benefits you will see using the CPI's over the T5's. And I'm not saying that your problem is Carbs, or Jetting or anything at all since I know nothing about your porting other than it sounds moe like a clean up port than anything agressive, just trying to help. I would think your should be able to rev higher with yoru new pipes than teh T5's and make more power in those higher RPM's (likely less power on bottom through mid)

I crashed mine and the steering stem hoop and subframe were trashed. Replaced the frame, now I have to get a stuid VIN stamped in it somehow.

Was the Asian girl sleeping with the other girls husband? I didn't quite get a few parts...

Jetting sounds off to me, but we don't know what airbox setup your running. (I was running a 320 Main with FMF Fattys, NO Porting, and a K&N.) But that does not necessarily mean you are off. You also need to switch to clamp on K&Ns (if applicable for your ride) some larger carbs (maybe 33mm pwk's) , and V-force reeds to get the most out of those pipes with porting (not sure how extensive your porting is but these pipes are good from mid to top end). I had a hell of a time installing mine. My Silencer had to be taken apart to remove welding beads (it would not mount straight and there was a gap between silencer and stinger tube). I had to hone out the stingers with a dremel to get them to slide over the header on the expansion chamber. The right pipe's Header had to be ground down about 1/4th of an inch so that the silencer would slide on far enough to line up with the mounting hole in the frame. The left side would not fit at all so We had to dent in the expansion chamber with a hammer in order to make it clear the head. We also had to use a 1/2 inch spacer on the pipe clamp. Between the dent and 1/2 inch spacer it still only clears the head by a couple mm's. If they are Big Bores I do like the R.I.S. Pipe clamps...They seem to seal up nicely but I have not tested mine yet.

I went out and saw it because of this post. It was pretty good.

How are you going to add the little Notch to keep them from spinning around in the head?

WTF are you talking about?

The world IS going to end someday, so enjoy riding your banshee while your alive. Hell the Sun could get a huge solar flare tomarrow and cook the entire planet. Everything becomes insignificant if you look at it from far enough away, yet I still make to the next day.

I have mixed opinions on what your want to do to that crank. For the cost of changing the rods and bearings you may as well buy a new one especialy since the stocker isn't exactly fully rebuildable from my understanding. Then again another other friend said the only crank that is built better than a rebuilt stocker is a billet one. Personaly I'm going to go 4 mil with a new crank if I'm goign to switch to cubs, and you won't want to run it with toomys I'll bet it gets hot with those restrictive pipes on it and you definatly will be starving it's potential.

I belive alba has them too.

Damn I wanna run my shit on that dyno and see wht kinda numbers I get

You have an 8 deg timing advance + the advance from the Dyna? Holy shit you must have some low compression. If you run the Dyna you should not need the timing plate anymore since it is essentialy doing the same thing, but variable with RPMs...

Fattys will make more power on a ported motor, and SST's only give you a slight increase on a stock motor.

As great as this sounds I'm pretty sure that the the fuel tank is lower on the side with the valve, which would mean if you start to run out of gas you could potentialy compleatly starve one cylinder. I'd like to do this if you figured out a way to make it work without having to worry about potentialy blowing up my motor. The stock splitter sucks so I was goign to get a pingel but damn you get rapped on the price!

Damn man, my lowes charges like $20 for a piece of aluminum that size. I wanted to make a better PSU cover for my computer but after I went there I could have bought 1/2 a new case for less money!

No but I had something like that fly into my mouth from under my helmit, my nose was caked with sand so I was breathing though my mouth and BAM! Right down my throat, I pulled over to throw up but I didn't. Burned the shit out of my left leg on my fattys as well. Woke up and everyone was leaving for a ride so I jumped on before changing into pants, was hung over from night before. Burned a nice scar into twice on that ride. So now I switched to CPI's not that they stick out less, but perhaps I can even it out a bit and burn the right side as well LOL Damn this is an old ass post!

Lookin good, I see you decided to stick with balljoints I like the Red and Whie color theme, those arms would look real good in red.

It does re-circulate, especialy if you re-locate it to the front under the nose. (Stan) CottoneyeJoe sells a nice piece to relocate it there. It is not mandatory unless you like to keep your radiator full to the top. Extra coolant capacity never hurts, and it gives hot coolant a nice place to vent to rather than trapping it in or over overflowing it onto your pipes. Where there is coolant in the bottle there is coolant in my radiator, but if it is empty I KNOW for sure it needs to be topped off.