Justintoxicated

don't forget to grease your muffler bearings as well.

Actualy if your going to switch to a round housing the brake caliper is mounted differently, you could easily use a stock length aftermarket brake line on a +2 round house arm. The carrier is mounted up higher on the honda style carrier than on the crappy yamaha style ones. my +2 brakeline will easy work when I switch to a +4... Right now it is actualy a bit too long for my +2, I could probably even get a +6 and still have plenty of length. But if your going to use the stock bearing carrier you will need the extra length.

Come on guys think about it. If you just turn one headlight on on the banshee does it blow up because your not runnign 2? ok... Headlights need voltage regulation on the banhsee, you might need a new voltage regulator (It regulates everything except for the lines coming out of the CDI. (for your spark plugs). Power is Voltage times the current the headlights pull... P=V*I but what the lights need is abotu 12V, the total power the lights take depends on their current pull. 35watt 55 watt 100 watt bulbs for the banshee are all 12V...

Well my setup is a bit different I guess. When I adjust the brake lever at the mastercylinder to clear the cover mod, the brake lever is a considerable distance below the peg. I can't possibly use it in that position. If it is raised any higher, it will smack the case. Since the case also sticks out more it is also less area to hit the pedal I also noticed it seems like the Direct Drive Lockup is causing the clutch to wobble. I checked all my plates and they are in there nice and even. If you look close you can see where I ground down the peg to fit in the notch, but It appears it still needs some grinding... Will IMS footpegs fit or would I have to grind those as well? FULLBORES: Quite a dissapointment. I waited about 6 moths after putting the cash down, just to recieve the rears. Only to find out the fronts I got months ago don't fit... Also gave up trying to get the full bores on after about 4 hours. Anyone with Fullbore fronts have any fitment issues? The rears finaly came in after 6 month backorder and they fit like a glove, but the fon't are not even close. When I mount the front 4 bolts thr back sticks up and out over the top of the tank. I Bent the shit out of this part to get them to fit and no luck! Probably have top replace this part now if I even want to put the stock fronts on. I bent the brass mount to the point where it can't be bent down any more. it helped but it's not hitting on the washer for the radiator mount... And they still won't go down low enough to allow me to mount them to the fuel tank...

Well the lockup knida fits but I will have to really grind my footpeg down to get it to fit in the notch in the lockup cover for the footpegs... I will have pictures of this cover that is supposed to fit the footpeg soon. Seond how are you all bending the brake levers to get them to fit correctly? I can't think of a way to possibly bend it and clear the peg and cover... I also have a set of fullbore fonts I'm trying to put on and they don't fit either, I tried bending the brass mount for the stock plastics and wires way down, but they still bottom out on it and I can't get any of the holes to line up. I think I'm going to send them back to fullbore for another set. Hopefully it won't take another 6 months for the front plastics like it did for the rears. Anyone else have this problem? I have a brand new frame so thats not the issue... Please help!

Not sure it would be THAT simple. There is obviously some problem with my shock since it only lasted a few trips after being re-valved by TCS. Everyone here seems to think it is a nitrogen leak. I nearly broke my back when the rear end flipped over the front so I'm not about to risk my ass again to save a few bucks I'd rather pay $50 or 100 to know it is done right than to end up in a wheelchair for the rest of my life... Plus like you said it would be VERY difficult with the tools that I have, no shop, no nitrogen bottle to charge the shock with etc I don't even have anyhing but China Freight C-clamps and I don't want to screw up the nice Eibach spring... Not to mention this is my Last weekend before the season starts to get the bike ready (Bike is not at home it's 3 hours away) so I'm heading down this weekend to get it ready and pull the shock to send it off to Percision Concepts for them to fix the problem. As well as a number of other issues (install new clutch, lube change oil, and many other things) As it is I will have to install the shock back on the bike at about 12:00am right before loading it on the trailer for the 5 hour trip to glamis at the end of the month, if I'm even able to make that trip at this piont...Time is a luxury I simply do not have. If you can PM me a link to pics though I am interested in learning the process for future maintanence.

I thought they were available for over a year now, but they are not the best shocks works has to offer for the banshee. At least thats what they told me at the SSSS last year

I don't remember the exact price, but ~$1500 also included the rear shock...I'm probably jsut going to have my shock re-valved again for now untill I get my cub which might call for a longer swingarm.

I heard he does not make this setup anymore...Too much time and effort into it. It is bad ass though!

If you want to sit at the stock ride height I believe so. You would gain another 2.75 inches of travel I think. But It would be cool if someone could verify this !

When I stopped by Alba at the Sand Sports Super show they were sporting the new banshee rear shock linkage and I must say it looked sweet. http://www.elkasuspension.com/atv/linkages.html I'm not sure if it is what I'm looking for but it is supposed to add some travel as long as you buy it with their shock designed to go with it. it was ridiculouly expensive though like $1500 bones or some shit... But anyways I'd honestly rather pay the cash for some real quality than end up on a stretcher in a gurney again. I know I posted about this before but I must say it is a real disapointment that a rear should would deteriorate to this level after about 1.5 seasons on it. Unlike some people I don't get to ride often and having to pay to rebuild my shocks once a year does not really seem worth while for how much I get to ride. Plus I don't think I should have to increase the dampening every time I go for a ride (it is maxed out at this point right now) I mean what is it like a couple bucks every time I hit a whoop and go off a jump? Anyways, my rear shock is needing to be rebuilt and I was thinking about trying percision conceptz this time around, as I would feel really burt if I sent it back to TCS and the damn thing wore out this fast again. After the ambulence ride I guess you could say I'm not very forgiving... But if it's money well spent I'm thinking I would rather go with the ultimate suspension and live with my shitty rear shock right now for a bit longer (Just won't ride hard in the meantime I guess) and avoid the hospital in the future.

LOL that plate cracked on both sides of mine! My Friend welede them up but the frame was still tweeked about 1/2 inch... But then I finished it off when I wrecked and bent the steering stem loop in front and pushed the bolts for the bumper croocked.. I guess it could be straightened sorta...if anyone needs a frame that bad and is willing to pick it up let me know. I need to have the vin transfered first.

must be jetting and or the rider..Try to remove the whole lid and bump up the main...Did you move the needle up? Are you still running that POS stock air filter?

those are some serious inframe pipes lol

I was going to make a post but I think it may help you as well so here goes my Q.. Since I have a lockup, if I don't take any of the weights off of it, can I go back to running stock springs with around 75 HP (have not had it run on a dyno yet) or would it be better to remove 1/2 the weights and keep my barnett springs in there?

I rode mine like it was untill I crashed it again, then I just got a new frame... I heard it is nearly impossible to bend them back perfect...

I would imagine that this would have more to do with the case mod than the lockup. You saw the one I got at the sand show it had a nice notch in it to clear the footpegs. Will be down in SD to install it in a next weekend (not this weekend) so I will know more then, but it is also a DD lockup with an O-ring seal, it's just that the plexy is flush mounted and has a tapered billet piece added on that the plexy seats into with the notch in it to clear teh pegs (so the plexy piece is slightly smaller than the standard version. but I like the way it looks better.

definately worth it. Some people even spend the cash for a stock length round carrier.

I would not go cheap on the a-arms, I mean it's your life but I would hate to have a critical part fail at 40+ MPH or when landing a jump... You get what you pay for. Save up and fork it all out at once, or just ride the stock stuff IMO.

Flat black is a sweet color, I'd say do the swinger the same as the frame or go chrome.

Blaine, Yea I ended up getting that Lockup from Kevin the next day. Good to see ya again. Matt , I missed that toolbag I really need one too, and the gearbag was actualy $35 on sale not 30... but... forgot to show you the "shocker" riding gloves LMAO I should have bought a pair of those... I'm also wishing that I would have bought those IMS footpegs for $150 even now...I talked to IMS and they will still give me the show price, but comes out to 180 now cause of tax and shipping

I run the braided hoses as well, it does get a bit soft but I have not had any problems. I guess if it blows off that would mean I need to stop because I am overheating anyways. You will need to replace it once a year because it clouds up a bit probably due to the heat.

Not sure how strong the stock bumper is but you actauly don't want it to be too strong. You want it to bend when you crash rather than the frame... Thats the point in having it...

That and it is known to be corrosive to plastic/acrylic over time and does not do a very good job of anti corrosion by itself either. But yea that mixed with straight distilled water will provide excelent cooling results but will not protet your motor as well from other issues. I used to runt he water wetter (super toxic) but have since switched to engine ice. I prefer the engine ice, since it is non toxic and blue . The only disadvantage I have sceen is that it tends to get little floaties in it over time, but this is probably not much of an issue on the banshee since there is little that should plug up.

I'm in as well