Justintoxicated

I was incorrect about thebrake hub bolts they were too long, not too short so they would stick into the space where the brake disk goes, making them useless. Please show me a fastner store that sell M10 .1.25 in stainless I looked for about a month. AlL I could find was 1.50 pitch in stainless. They do exist as Russ used to have them like $10 for 2 or something. I think he had them custom made or something. Ok man, ignorence is bliss eot. Here is an example of some bolts that Did not match (I don't remember what these were for.

Wes, Not really sure what you mean man! I'm guess that the problem comes from Pulling the clutch in when the bike is reved up high, seems there would be more pressure on the pusher and ball and bolt and nut than the stock clutch due to the lockup, so the bolt can work it's way off easier. What I want to find is the pandcake with the allenhead instead of using the stock philips bolt.

I guess there are 2 styles, mine does not use the Hex head, it uses the factory stud with the philips head on the end. Guess I will need to use locktight on it, Wish I would have known this BEFORE it tore up my cases, I did make sure it tighten it as much as possible, but you know how philips heads ore... Who is selling the pancake with the hex head I may as well cut my loss with this one and fork up another $40..

Mine did not have upper A-arm bolts, or footpegs (picked up some plated / graded botls for the pegs) but it did have the swingarm bolts and I have both sets (first and second he sent me) sitting in my spare bolt box. I paid over $100 for the kit and expected things to fit without a hassle. I woudl have been better off dumping all the bolts in a box and jsut picking bolts that fit out one at a time. Only about 1/2 of them actualy fit what they were labled for. Engine mount bolts do not fit at all they are in the same box as the swingarm bolts unless I used them for something else. I have a round carrier too but the bolts included SHOULD fit... The stock allenhead bolts do and he has the correct size botls he just included ones that are way too short (1/2 the size length of the factory bolts) They don't fit a damn thing on the bike... I'd say it was overall one of the worst purchases I have made (maybe not the worst since it was not THAT much money), although I have had problems with almost everything I buy for the banshee, wether it be a coolhead, pipes, suspension, etc...

That sucks My firend has the old kit (From RUSS) and they do not look like that. I think Stainless is Strong enough for most parts on the banshee including the shock linkage and A-arms, the factory yamaha botls are crap, much worse than the stainless I'm using, Hell I even twisted the heads off the A-arms botls when they galled up inside my stock arms. That is as long as the bolts fit correctly. Yamaha uses Graded Bolts, but the grade is "Shit x 10"

That is the correct size. M10 1.25 and they do not come in Stainless. I have the Fastner Guy kit and it sucks ass. Sorry guys had to tell the truth. The A-arm Bolts I'm using without problems but they are just barley long enough to be flush with the nuts when they SHOULD stick out at least another 1/4th of an inch. The Swing arm Bolts are Garbage, complete garbage, I complained and they did send me another set for the swing arm but they still do Not fit right. I put the stock bolts back in. One of the swing arm bolts in the kit is the wrong diameter. I'm talking about the bolt (I can't remember exactly which one, but the factory one is thick then gets narrow (It is the bolt that you have to get a spacer for on some aftermarket swing arms). It allowed allot of play in the linkage which is not good and feels like shit, who would want to use a smaller diameter Bolt on the Swing arm Linkage?!!? (Allows the bike to smack down on the bolt.) I don't think it is safe. The other pivot bolts have threads on the pivot area or 1/2 of it so where it should be smooth there are threads. The rear brake hub bolts do not fit with an aftermarket Brake Carrier (the factory bolts do) They are WAY too short (probably too short for stock hub as well, The Motor mount bolts do not fit AT ALL. They do not thread in all the way because the bolts are not completely threaded so they stop as soon as they hit the non threaded portion. I was able to salvage the rear brake hub bolts by asking for extras for another part (I can't remember which part the bolts fit sorry were guys but if you get the kit just compare some other bolts to the stock brake hub bolts). It was really frustrating when I was putting the new frame on the banshee. I do have lots of leftover bolts which is nice, and I did use allot of the kit, but why even include stuff as ridiculous as the motor mount bolts unless you want your motor shifting around...Same for the swing arm bolts, if they don't make the correct sizes in stainless then just don't include them and lower the price of the kit....Give me something else like bolts for the front brake hubs or have someone make some foot peg bolts

Not so bad since it comes with the rear shock which itself is expensive. I'd rather spend the money on that than a billet stator cover Damn Duner440 your Banshee looks ALOT like mine

It's been a while since I looked into it but Your already pushing the small reeds with a 7 mil cub... I can't imagine a 14 mil for anything but drag racing. There is a reason the Real Cheatas support larger reeds. I'm going to try the +2 probably, but may just sell it before next season if I can find the funds new a new chrome arm + Shock (I have a nice chrome quicksand though). I don't want a +6 because even a +4 will be harder to dune with, but I like the wheelie anyways and I don't care about the drag aspect as much. (yea a +6 would be better for launching I'm sure, but I want it to handle decent in the dunes as well.) I also like the ability to Wheelie up Old's and Pattons Test etc (or at least try to it's harder to hold it on the uphill on a banshee which makes it fun).. Hard to say since i don't have my cub :)I think it would be a bit more difficult with a +6. If I go for a 4 mil supercub, I guess I'll plan on a +4 for sure, I might get some more torquey pipes too, since it will already be fast as hell for my use.

I'd save for an elka or other if you have the cash. I have a TCS rear, much better than stock but it does fade even in the dunes. First one had ot be re-adjusted almost every trip, by the end of the season it pogoed me right off the back @45 MPG, luckly I escaped with bruised kidneys, and some back pain. I had Percision Concepts rebuild the shock again and it is holding up better, although I'm going to have it rebuilt again now that the season is over. Percision found a bad seal that I think TCS must have missed. Their valving is a bit soft but I can adjust it a bit to make it stiffer. I would not hesitate to get an elka valved for me (not off the shelf) it should be better than a stock revalved rear in every way, stronger, Last longer, and Not fade as quickly. if you really had both you must not have had them setup correctly.

I'd have to disagree with you there. Elkas > stock YFZ shocks, if you want adjustable then get adjustable elkas instead (or some other shock). The shocks will likely be better setup, and dialed in for the bike (banshee shocks on banshee arms) unless you valving them yourself of course. 1) Nothing wrong with Albas arms they are Chromoly! There are other arms out there that are excelent as well, Not some cheap ass, stock heavy Mild steel YFZ arms 2) Percision Conceptz valves shocks for alot of pro riders, they used to re-valve pro's elkas until Elka Starting forcing sponsored riders to use their valving. They are a great company and know their shit. 3)$1000 gets you Chromoly and Somewhat Adjustable Arms, Brake Lines, And Elka Shocks. Vs stock heavy mild steel with crappy stock brake lines, and alot of extra work. Hassles and problems down the line, likely means when you need to rebuild/recharge your shocks. I don't know if YFZ shocks are easily rebuildable or not but if they use the save kinds of seals as the stock rear shock on the banshee all that needs to be replaced and will cost more money. Do it right the first time IMO. Now if I had some old YFZ arms laying around, that would be another story. You get what you pay for...

Except for the fact that the Cub uses Stock Reeds which are not designed to handle that much flow and will have a higher failure rate. I have talked to some people with 10 mil cubs and they wish they had gone with full cheatas because they would go through a set of V-force reeds every trip. Maybe differnet reeds would work better but the fact remains that the stock size reeds are not really made to flow that much...Which is why I would pick a 7 over a 10, also because I don't need te extra power of the 10 mil and it would make riding more difficult and painful with the ass end sticking out that far... 4 mil cub or mil supercub for me this summer... 14mm cub? Does such a thing exist? I'm hoping to keep my +2 with the 4 mil but likely i will need a +4... 7 Mil Cub + stock swinger = the lose.

Probably depends on the pancake I believe min eis like this one. http://www.passionracingengines.com/Products.html Damn Jim has a good deal on that lockup too. I paid more and had to send my cover in and now it's a bit chewed up inside as well.

I'm always worried about all aluminum hubs splines stripping out. I went with durablue with steel splines ones and I was going to paint them or PC them, but ended up saying fuk it.

Sounds right except I don't remember a hexhead? I believe you hold it with a wrench and then screw in the inner shaft piece to adjust the clutch (i don't remember it was like ayear ago when I did it.) . Well whatever goes on the end of that adjustment shaft is what came off in my motor and fucked it all up. I didn't have any directions when I installed it maybe I will go back to stock next time around. I never welded my ball before anyways and that would have been a cheaper fix and not destroyed my case.

No your right I'm using the pancake bearing and I don't remember what it looks like either! So what fell off exactly and why? I don't remember there being any Hex head maybe I got a POS Pancake? I have not done any clutchwork since the beginning of the season when I installed it. I'm skeptical on keepin the pancake bearing at this point. I'd rather weld the rod than trash my whole motor.

No pics available Bike is 100+ miles away... Parts 12 & 13 are somewhere in the side case:

Yea so I had a little disaster this last weekend, Somehow I spun the locknut off for the clutch adjustment rod and it bounced all around in my case and caused some damage. Mostly digs all over the inside of me new Mattoon Cover My Lockup clutch got beat up a bit as well, So I'm going to just replace it even though it would probably still work fine it just bugs me. The nut appears to be to the right side of the clutch in that little pocket like area near the gears. We pulled the side to the cover for the lockup (not the whole side case cover) but were not able to pull it out (tried a powerful magnet) I have not had the opportunity to pull the side case completely off since it was 105 deg or so at the dunes and I didn't have anything to drain the oil into. So what would cause this nut to come loose? I have been running this setup all year and not had any problems, never came off the stock setup either and I have been in there a few times before

If something goes wrong, it looks like it will flings 100 ball bearings throughout your case...

I vote +2+1 shocks with elka's dune valving, or similar shock. I think I would prefer my front and rear end to stickout the same. But, becauseof the tires I'm using my backend is just slightly wider.

Well that is Gary's price for a chome one is, err well, 725 in chrome 750 with annodized carrier + chrome. But they are also made of chromoly, NOT mild steal. http://www.quicksandmotorsports.com/swingarm.htm His extentions are about the same price though...

If your in San Diego, take it over to percision concepts in el cajon, they do good work. not sure on the exact amount just give them a call and see what they say. if it's all stock it will be more money the first time to change to replacable seal head, new valving, and new spring. After that it's about 79-90 to have it rebuilt depending if you need new seals etc...

LOL, if your on a budget get a G-force, they are better than Bendy Blue and have a better warranty (Lifetime jsut like LSR, not replace once or is it twice BS). I flipped my bike end over end and totaled my frame, but it held up fine, although usualy axles break / bend when landing on one rear wheel before the other, not from flipping end over end . Going wider makes the strain on the part much higher, just as you can get more torque by prying with a longer lever as opposed to a short one. Still though most people with G-force Axles are happy with them, and they are also WAY cheaper as well! That 40 foot double must have HURT!

Looks good other than using the Stock Carrier... Should have switched to the round housing while you were switching arms and had the chance. The stock chain adjustment is a BITCH and causes nothing but problems, and comes out of adjustment fairly easy. Some people even go as far as purchasing a stock length swingarm with the round honda style housing. You might want to flip the sprocket around, from the pics it looks like it is showing some wear, but I may be seeing things. X-ring is in every way better than an O-ring chain, it has more seals to block dirt and keep wax / oil in Did you have the shock re-valved? If not then I know what your next mod should be.

Sounds like you are open to modding for more power but still want alot of traction and controll. I'd go for the +2. In sand you can adjust your traction with the number of paddles you run, so I would imagine you can kinda do the same thign with different tires. but in the end the more mods you do the more you will need to keep the front end down. +4 is better for hill shooting once you get more power, and will still handle ok, but if you trail ride it might be a PITA. It's really going to depend on what your planning for your motor. I have a +2 and it's great with my ported motor in the sand, I have to lean forward a bit when I launch to keep the front end down, but I can pull wheelies up the hill if I want to screw around. It's also easier to jump on a +2 than a +4. A minus 2 is not going to be great for hill shooting IMO, although it will increase your traction and decrease turn radius which might be great in the trails. My Friend has a +6 with a 7 mil cub and it lifts the front end as easy as my +2 with just porting, maybe easier lol. Most common is probably a +4, but I really like my +2 for dune riding and still have some benefit when shooting the hill. Going to be a bit small when I eventualy step up to a cub though, but I think I can handle it, maybe....

Agreed Cut the front dumbo ears of, and drill out the rivots on the rear and be done with it. Spend your money on something worth while.