Justintoxicated

So I figured this might not be the best idea, but what the hell I'm already shopping for new cases... Tried to bend it back slightly just enough to allow the alignment pin to seat. Nope, broke right off with just a little pressure. But now the clutch cover fits : It didn't bend by Glamisduner, on Flickr What should I use to clean these cases? I tried engine degreaser and carb cleaner but they both seemed to eat the paint right off it (as you can see in the pic above)

So been busy rebuilding the banshee. I think I have it fixed now, but I missed the whole season. There's always next year I guess but I am certainly getting tired of working on the bikes 10x more than riding them ! Been out sick all week, and with the banshee fixed and cases back together decided to split the cases on the 250R. So I got inside and found this. Tons of sand, blocked oil passageway. But all teh sand seemed to be at the bottom of the case. none the less I think it would be a good time to replace all the bearings and seals. More sludge by Glamisduner, on Flickr Now I was trying to be careful with the cases I didn't want to mess up any of the sealing areas. But my dog kept bothering me to play some ball and I felt bad for neglecting her since I was mostly resting all week (This is the worst cold I have had in years!). While throwing the ball for her I suddenly heard a loud bang. Case into the garage to find the case on the concrete floor Not sure exactly what happened, but I must have rested it on part of the engine that was just friction stuck and it let go. I wish I knew exactly what I did wrong but I never will know how exactly this happened... Case damage by Glamisduner, on Flickr So this is where the alignment pin goes in. In this case toast? Now I'm planning to sell this thing to help fund an RzR, but I still want to get it fixed right for the next owner. Any ideas?

Ahh n/m I was mixing them up with the optimus duals, the smaller light cannons look like the ticket, still damn pricy though, 2x the prive of my light bar that produces twice the light. Still they would be a good replacement! Those 4.5" ones would mount up to my lightbar so easy it's n ot even funny http://www.visionxusa.com/product/automotive/4-5-25-watt-led-light-cannon/ the 7" Hid's will still probably throw farther though, they have the advantage of not having the bulb all the way at the base of the reflector, and at this size they are nearly as efficient as LED. Still no warm up time, and less power over the HIDs would be nice (saves me another 10 watts and leaves me at exactly 100! which the 200 watt stator and large battery should have no problems with) Snapped this on my way out the door, early morning lighting was difficult so excuse the quality. Light bar install by Glamisduner, on Flickr Guess it is 15 LED's not 18, sorry for any confusion that caused.

Yea, I'm probably going to end up replacing the 7" HID's to further cut back power draw, the baja designs ones are very similar to the light cannons, but newer as well, not sure which is better as they don't sell vision-x at my local store. the 7" Hids will still throw farther though, I believe I can easily double or maybe tripple that distance, which again isn't practical for liughting up the path in front of you, but excellent for spotting that far away dune you want to hit. The light i have o the bars now should be a little brighter than 2 of those, and a little more floody. I might get those light canons, or the baja designs ones, but both are too damn expensive.... Baja designs similar version, http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=480003WT Assuming you have the smaller ones, the larger ones draw too much power but would be bad ass http://www.visionxusa.com/product/led/6-7-50-watt-led-light-cannon/

This video shows the spot, flood, and driving versions of the SR210" light. TO me the driving is the only acceptable one. They do also make a SR2 10" combo light with hyperspot and driving (not shown in the video) but it uses less LED's, power, and produces less lumens. It might be a candidate if your trying to conserve power, or doing higher speed racing. I could not find an example of that particular light. I chose driving pattern for the dunes. I think the non driving lights are also less lumens due to using different optics and less LEDs, the 10" driving bar uses 18 LEDs!

So I ended up cutting all the relay and fuse out of the harness, all power comes from a fused distribution block anyways. Only difference is that if I pop the fuse I will lose all lighting. I did decide to run a ground from the distribution block this time, rather than grounding the light to the frame like I had done with the HIDs. 10" fits fine on the bars, I went this route though because it was on sale and cheaper than 6" version that has the same amount of LED's. I prefer the light on the bars to be more floody and spots in the stock location. I used to think spot on the bars made more sense but they both had their advantages / disadvantages, the driving pattern is about perfect I think, but I won't know for sure until test it out. More flood than a spot, and more spot than a flood. I think it will be better than the 6" version for what I am looking for, but either would work. the 6" might look nicer but the 10" should add more fill light. Notice that most people prefer the bars in the dunes because and now even the curved versions because they throw more light to the surrounding area. HID's still throw father than LEDs. Again, if I was racing cross country or high speeds spot would be more useful but I find flood light in the dunes will help you pic the where you want to go, it just needs to be ALOT of flood light. If I had halogens I would go for a spot on the bars for sure. Spots are nice for navigating out to the distance. This particular 10" light is 50 watts, which is just about what I wanted for the bars. I was tempted to get the E-series version but that didn't leave any power for stock location lights (not that they would be needed). This video shows the exact configuration and pattern. The 20 watt baja designs mini lights are pretty bad ass, I was playing with them at the store. Just too damn expensive, but they would be perfect spots for frame mounting while keeping total power under 100 watts!

I just got the light today a few days early. The wiring harness this thing comes with is nice, However I think all I really needed is some wires coming out of the thing to connect to my 15 amp trailtech switch. Did you use the relay? I'm thinking about chopping the whole harness off. it was fine, but a little too power hungry, always had to shut off the HID's when we would stop to avoid draining the battery. Group has been stopping more at night when we ride or slowing down more. Plus after a rest everyone has LED's now so they electrically start their 450's and take off, I'm stuck Kicking my banshee over, then after started I have to wait for my HID's to warm up... Since I had to replace my trail tech switch I decided to get some LED lights.

Did you have to do something similar to mount it to the handlebars?

Can't edit my post so here is a reference pic to the old setup" Banshee by Glamisduner, on Flickr

Finally got this thing mounted up. I couldn't find any handlebar clamps that do no use countersunk screws so I made some spacers to lift this one up over the bar clamp. Longest stainless bolts I could find at lowes were 50mm long, I would have preferred 60mm bolts but hopefully this will be ok for now. Cutting the 1" spacers in 1/2 and filing them down was tedious and they are not perfectly flat but I think this will work. The rigid mount is getting mounted over the top of my old trailtech bar clamps. I think I might just re-use them to save some money, plus the holes allow a place for my underlighting switch, or maybe I will use the large hole to route the wire from the light bar. IMAG0577 by Glamisduner, on Flickr One of my 3 position switches from trailtech stopped working, so I ordered a new one (the red one). I don't care for the new one as it is slightly larger, less tactical, and does not appear to seal as well on the bottom (uses metal mounting plate instead of plastic, but it does not line up perfectly like their older switch. Tonight I may try to repair the older switch. But otherwise this new version will have to do. I'm too cheap to replace the older switch to have matching switches. They used to be $20, but now they are $30 come out to about $40 shipped Looks terrible IMO. IMAG0579 by Glamisduner, on Flickr SR2 10" lightbar will be here thursday, it should be 30% brighter than the 2 MR16 flood HID's I had on there before, and will use 10 watts less power. For now I'm going to keep my 7" HID's below as lower powered LED lights still can't match the throw and bean I get from them. I might change them out later to save another 20 watts of power though.

IMAG0516 by Glamisduner, on Flickr China wall by Glamisduner, on Flickr Couldn't find you guys out there.

Expect that your going to need a lockup clutch too, which will make shifting a bit different for you.

might be my only trip this year if I am lucky

I should have specified I wasn't going to go to a bearing place and try to figure that shit out I was looking at bearing kits on ebay like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bottom-End-Engine-Bearings-and-Seals-Kit-Honda-TRX250R-1986-1987-1988-1989-/370871578174?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5659ab2e3e&vxp=mtr vs Honda branded parts: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-TRX-250R-TRX250R-OEM-BOTTOM-END-BEARING-SEALS-KIT-NEW-ENGINE-CYLINDER-BDTM-/390948732777?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b065c3f69&vxp=mtr Any tricks to splitting the cases without the special tool?

Got a link to the bearing tool you suggesting? Is it something I can borrow from autozone/kragen/o'reilly? I found some kits on ebay for $150 (Boss bearing) to $250 for honda OEM, I don't think they include the counter balancer, clutch bearings or pancake though. I have no idea how people fix the counter balancers, probably need to send at least that part out for work (looks like you might be able to remove it, but not sure how to get a fresh one pressed on without a hydraulic press). I found a rebuilt one here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRX250R-OEM-COUNTER-BALANCER-ATC250R-TRX-250R-ATC-HONDA-85-89-REBUILT-/131267592997?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e90288325 So probably looking at closer to $400 for the bearings and gaskets, then I still need to replace at least couple gears as well. I can find a complete rebuilt bottom end with new (re-manufactured powdercoated) cases for $800. My side case was cracked and JB welded where the chain must have smacked it before I bought it. It's been holding up fine like that though. Still a whole new case might be a better way to go for not a whole lot more? I'll probably skip the inspection and just replace them all... So far everything seems covered a a thick oily sludge that is slightly gritty.

So I'm waiting for a case splitting tool before I can continue to take down the motor. I don't know who, when or why someone did this to me, but I must be a bigger asshole than I imagined. It probably happened at a Glamis trip, but I don't ride the R every trip to the dunes so it may have happened on a prior trip. Second to last trip, or maybe it was last New Years, I took my 250R for a ride because I didn't have enough gas for the banshee (last ride of the trip). When I got back to camp the thing was barley running, it had lost all it's compression. So about a month ago I had the cylinders bored and honed and picked up a new piston. Once I got it all together it started right up, but was making all kinds of strange noises. So I pulled it back apart and this time I measured everything, and well, everything was perfect to spec. So then I pulled the drainplug. Sabtog 250r by Glamisduner, on Flickr Well that's not looking too good so I pulled the clutch cover. Sabatog 250r by Glamisduner, on Flickr I found about 6 stones in there this size. Sabatog 250r by Glamisduner, on Flickr So I think the noise was caused my a counter balancer bearing failure, the bearing is messed up, as are probably all the bearings in this motor. So what to do now? Most of the gears so far look ok, but should they be replaced anyways? I haven't cracked the case due to needing a tool. I doubt I'll ever find out who did this to my quad, but I want to get it fixed. Should I buy a rebuilt bottom end? Just replace all the bearings and seals if all the gears look fine? The cost of a new bottom end is about 1/2 the value of the quad. Going to pull the clutch cover off the banshee tomorrow to make sure they didn't hit my banshee too (which is also broken), I think whoever did this did it while I was out on a ride. We will see if they F'ed up my banshee too.

This is the first time I didn't make it out for thanksgiving in 14 years. POS banshee and 250R are both broken (and not sure why / how)

So how were the dunes and weather? I spent the weekend taking apart my 250R and getting the Banshee ready for the season.

bump

I didn't have any problems clearing the arm, but I think my carb bolt is ground down a little, you can also give the arm a very slight bend if you were to have issues. I don't remember what the stock intakes did in order to compare them. I haven't had the stock intakes for some time now. In fact I believe the rubber boots have been replaced on these once already.

I don't know I think I got them on ebay some years ago so probably not. I'm not really sure on the brand.

$40 + actual shipping, I used this with 33mm carbs.

link does not work

Sorry guys, got busy. Last trip was a bust. Went on only one ride then the banshee was acting up, and the windstorms started so I left. Just got back from my grandfathers memorial service as well but finally have more time to post pictures. The mount seemed to hold fine for the one ride I went on, here's what I ended up doing. IMG_20140405_170855_207 by Glamisduner, on Flickr I modified the stock rotopax bracket so that the protruding bumps in the fuel tank would fit into the holes in the bracket (drilled the stock holes larger, then used a dremel to make them even larger). This allowed the entire bracket to make contact with the inner (recessed) ring of the fuel tank. Then I bought some spacers and washers and longer bolts from Lowes to lift of the rotopax bracket. Once inch seemed to do the trick just about perfectly. It also makes it easier to grab the grab onto the grab bar now. IMG_20140405_170906_882 by Glamisduner, on Flickr IMG_20140405_171034_106 by Glamisduner, on Flickr I think the spacers were 1" (have to go higher because the circle in the fuel tank is recessed).

Well once I figure out how to rig mine it it will do it's own advertising for you. Right now I'm thinking a block of wood (2x4) on top of it so that it will clear the fullbores, or maybe I can use the backplate the mount came with and some spacers, just not sure if the backplate will provide enough surface area to support the can? Well only one trip left for this season next weekend so if I don't figure out something today I might have one for sale.