Justintoxicated

Did you check the pickup coil?

Check the splines on the rear sprocket hub

I bent mine a little bit too

If you want the clutch to last longer get some Barnett or Toomy Springs. use only 1/2 of them with a piped banshee. That said I'm replaceing my 7 year old plates in my banshe ewith a ported motor. They are still good, but The backet was notched. Seriously any clutch should work for you, maybe you should think about using some decent oil like Bell-Ray gear oil. I will be using the Tusk Clutch, Weisco basket, and a lockup clutch on a 4 mil cub.

But Chrome is stronger than Paint even PC usualy.

If you don't want spacers (sometimes they are a bad thing) then sometimes you can grind down the bottom bolt on the carb so it will clear.

I want a PRM too

I hear you this is my life story with banshee Parts. These days I am suprised when I buy a part that does NOT have to be modified to fit. My Worst buy so far was a bolt kit from fastner guy where about 50% of the botls or less were actualy useful, and they could not be "modified to fit" Had to put a dent in my CPI pipes to get them to clear the head after using as large of a spacer I could and still have the silencers fit) THen I had to sand out the chrome on the pieces where they connect togther. had to sand out the chrome on my A-arms as well, had to get 2 sets becaus ethe first hit the resevoirs on my shocks. Went through a few starter, problems with Noss head Domes Milled, RIS Billet shifter (had to grind the shifter shaft sticking out of the motor to get the bolt though). I could go on and on, but more often than not the replacement parts do not fit and have to be modified to work. I appreciate it when the companies at least stand behind their products, that all I really hope for these days

Ahh Welcome to HQ, I know who is doing my next motor

Hah I was going to agree with the first guy, but since you can do it for himn that would be his best bet Shit man, when A place wanted to re-do the bearings on mine I was looking at over $300 with a true and weld...However I didn't take their advise that my bearings had "play in them" and I have run it for 4 more years without any problems. Lucky I did too cause I found some new bearings and they had the same amount of play in them lol.

And Don't use aluminum rivots when you put it back together.

Just ordered mine, shoudl help to identify if I'm running leann at night in Glamis. Temp changes alot and I don't rejet.... I fixed the link for the import cap I believe, but I ended up getting silver instead of red. Red tends to change to pink in the sun and that part will always be exposed. (although I have other red annodized stuff anyways, damn I shoudl have got red! lol) $10 for shipping but I ordered some AEM cleaner too. Ouch on the shipping, but gas would probably cost me more to go looking.

Can someone link me to the correct cap on summit racings website? I have fulbores and have been too lazy to get a temperature gauge untill now Is this it? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Now if it ony had a backlight or glowed in the the dark or something.

I run the blacks, because I bent the blues before on my dune bike. I'd wsay Drag bike it's hard to beat the blues, less rotating mass and they are VERY light for the price. If you ride hardpack though I would definately go with reds or heavier. It is easy to spot new rims in the dunes they look REALLY nice for the first ride or so lol.

I left it there it looks good with black letters

Buff them up a bit and spray them with metalcast, Temp and Gas resistant. use alot of thin coats, the first coar will not compleatly covers or add much color, but too much paint and it will run. Good luck I don't think it would look bad either, but mine are always covered with gas oil and sand.

Try some Osram True Aim bulbs in there and they will get even better. Get the 10 deg

Nah they can curve the edges a bit Or just make some grippy design pattern.

Time for new tires dude...How did you stretch the Paddles?

I guess thats not bad but I have had my stock clutch plates for 5 years with belray, usualy change it twice a season. I'm just going to replace them because I'm putting in a new clutch for the cub. But it's not the clutch plates I'm as worried about. Althoguh I noticed a significat difference over the Golden Spectro gear oil.

Beer Cans should be square though, much easier to pile up that way, and less wasted space.

Just a new gasket. Never had a problem with the plastic gear. It's really not a big deal that gear being plastic, if something breaks that may as well be the piece rather than somethign more expensive anyways.

The one in the picture looks severly bent lol. I'm not sure what they mean by Keyed? Is that like the stock crank? Coulden't you say the stock crank is Keyed and Pressed but can still seperate? I dunno man but I hope you get an answer.

2" Shorter than stock? Stock seems to work fine with my swingarm (I guess I could take 2" off but no big deal). Your Swingarm has the adel clamp right? To hold the brake line in place? You could just send your brake lines back to the manufacturer too probably and have them shorted.

If you bend any chromoly swingarm that is properly welded, your medical bill is going to be higher than a new arm lol. I have Gary's arm from quicksand Racing and it has held up to some abuse, The chrome is holding up very nice as well. I would go Oval tube maybe on my next try, but the welds are probably your biggest worry. Square tubing is fine too. Most people that go with round tubing do it to save weight (hence thinner materials and less strength than most square tubing arms). My New Swingarm is lighter than stock, and longer too.