Justintoxicated

You just buy my used one I put up for sale But yea they can be more expensive to re-build than to replace...

I think WSM has a 68mm piston or else they are listed as weisco blaster pistons and you have to have your motor work done around whichever piston you go with. I don't know much about big bores for the banshee. I would just go with V-force III's for reeds so long as your not running alcahol.

Gorilla Glue that shit in place...or some kind of glue anyways I lost mine too but they are cheap to replace. I added some rubber padding to the top of the rear plastics (Where the wear marks on them are) as well to eliminate all side to side play. And all banshees I have ever sceen have side to side play in the seat to some extent. Your mod is fine though.

First thign I would do is try swapping the plug wires. Then you know if it is electrical or mechanical.

It might be, I can't remember if I modified mine or not but it fits a 15. My friend and I both have one. You can enlarge the mounting holes a hair or grind it down, I might have done a little of both. It is a tight fit for the 15. I would imagine it "might" even fit a 16 but I don't know for certain. I would not run a non O-ring chain in the dunes, but I guess that is just me. Seems to me that O-rings would reduce wear and play on the links, and the chain would last longer. But yea I didn't mean all Non-O-ring chains are junk just that I prefer O-ring. Theres better ways to get that last 1/4th HP.

probably easier to just buy a lockup cover unless you know what you are doing.

I would get a billet case saver and just grind it out a little so it clears a 16, mine clears a 15, so I would think it is possible... That and next time make sure you buy a D.I.D. X-ring chain and replace it when it needs to be. Usualy people busting cases are people who never check the condition of their chains, or run cheap ass non-O-ring chains.

Those pipes have no low end on anything they are all topend. I would try changing pipes first and see if it gives you enough low-end. You might try CPI's if you just want the power to come on a little sooner. I would see if you can contacted the person who ported it.

Ok back from vegas and well I didn't win. Need to get this stuff sold soon or it will go on ebay next week.

I can remove the grill and ship it, $25. It's a good design, I like it, but it dosen't fit my fullbores. it is in pretty good shape. To install it just unscrew your stock plastic grill and screw this one in it's place. Easy as pie. I can ship this one over the weekend probably, as it would ship out of San Diego. Well at least I'm getting rid of the small stuff, but It would be nice to find someone in need of a crank or porting. The cylinders are a great buy, just hone them out. Or just run them if you want to, not like I really needed to rebuild this thing yet. But if not, I'm sure they will sell quick on ebay, maybe even get a little more for them. Leaving for Vegas Tomarrow so I will not be answering any replies after tonight until monday. Everyone stuff has shipped. Axle is still for sale too.

I have never used a carb sync tool. I don't think it is necessary, but maybe nice to have. When you put the carbs back together there is a piece inside the carb top that has a hole in it, if you put it in backwards that hole will not be able to vent. Other common mistake is backwards slides, sticking floats, or missing crossover tube. but even a plugged jet with a tiny piece of sand could be causing idle problems. More specificaly if you go to www.albaaction.com -> Parts -> OEM Part Finder. Then select Carbs (maybe this link will work) http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...p;A=208&B=1 or http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...=1&Action=O I'm talking about Part #10 .VALVE, THROTTLE 1 (UR FOR LEFT) it has a hole in one side that you do not want to cover when you put in part #23. Check your pilot jets, and poke them out with a twisty tie wire or some such thing.

not ported you can tell by the black paint crap that is in them, that there are probably no other ports either hah.

Axle I'll take 100 + shipping OBO It has never been re-straightened and is not bent. Swapped it for a GeForce to match my front end. Splines are perfect I can get a closer picture if needed. I never cleaned it up, this is how it was pulled off the bike. Lights- Sold / Shipped (Covers Still Available) Shocks - Sold / Shipped

130 + shipping for both. Open to shipping suggestions they look like they will be a PITA to ship.

- Not for sale going to use it on the Cub. But the domes are for sale 19cc. - $60 + shipping They are in good shape other than the front lip which isn't all that bad. - Duplicolor Metalcast, I learned that the paint will get lighter I guess from the heat. I would recommend about 10-12 light coats.

More Stuff For Sale Stainless Grill $30 shipped OBO. Radiator Cover has holes for switches, Weatherproof connectos and wires will be removed. Switches all work I belive but I will remove unless someone needs them, since they cost more than the plastic piece lol. Make offers. Headlights: Sold Shocks: Sold - Shipped Axle: Pending (pics coming tonight) I also have a Subbox / Subwoofer for a Nissan Titan King Cab and would recommend local pickup. I have 2 boxes and only need one. This thing is practicaly brand new, I used this sub for like a week on the way to work, if that. Port fires towards rear door which is the best location for the port on most full size trucks. it is Semi-PreFab, in that they are mass produced but the sub and enclosure were designed to work together. Box is MDF with Some kind of spray on liner. Sub is 2 ohm 500-600 RMS 10". I can dem the box for local pickups. I knwo all the routing is a bit much for my taste (I liek plain design) but it goes under the seat so most of the box is hidden. More info Go Here: http://www.proboxloaded.com/homepage.shtml This box is takign up space, I think retail is about $400 for sub and box, just looking to get $100 back on this. I need the space and have a bunch of other subwoofers as well. I could ship but it is rather large and heavy. I belive this box will also fit some year Chevy 1500's.

Bumper is 25 shipped, headlights are pending sale, Shocks Sold.

Here is a picture of the small ding in the cylinder wall, when I pulled the head to find the dome was loose. (This is is when I first put everything together a couple years ago, it runs fine.) Painted

Stock Impeller - Make Offers Stock Flywheel - $60 Stock Start (might sell if the price is right) Stock headlights from my 2000. Both work, but one has warped plastic. One of the covers is a little toasy on the inside (discolored) but works fine and is not noticable from the outside( That you look at) yea yea, someone left the lights on ALSO FOR SALE: (Will try to get pics) Stock Axle (Straight) Good Shape! (Also have carrier and skid) Stock A-Arms (Friend is borrowing them, so not sure on selling ATM) Stock Front Shocks. Stock Swingarm. Prices seem reasonable to me, since well, you get what you pay for. Some stuff is more and some is a little cheaper on ebay, but condition is key. Items that do not sell will end up on ebay. Please feel free to combine things and make offers. For example Crank and Cylinders, Etc. Please no Lowball offers. Parts are off my Dune Banshee, this bike is well maintained and so are the parts. Will Take PP or Money order only.

Plastics: I Crashed but the plastics are still in pretty good shape, other than the nose which is a couple bends and a small crank from where the bumper pushed back into it (Not the bumper for sale). You could easily just cut out this damage on the nose and you would be good to go. HQ Stickers included These would ship out of San Diego @ actual shipping cost if possible. I have to have my Dad mail these for me. The Black Tank Shround is also for sale. I also have the Red Radiator Trim but it has switches drilled into the top of it. Also Have a stainless flame grill I would sell. I will try to get pics of these two pieces. Make Offers! Make Offers, Not dented, but could use some touch up paint. I find Duplicolor Metalcast Base coat is pretty close. Wheel Hub - (Only One) (other is slightly bent, can include if desire But I don't reuse bent hubs. $35 + Shipp OBO Stock Intake - Make Offers. Stock Shifter (2 bands are broken off it) -Offers.

Ok so I'm finaly going to drop a couple grand on a 4 mil cub. Might as well try an ease the pain a little. I will be posting more pics and prices as I figure them out. Here are some things for sale: Ported Cylinders $450 (Do not come with V-force reeds) Trued and Welded Crank $200 (Does not include Nuts or Gears or seals) Cylinders (Almost polished before painting) they are 2 over stock due to portwork. I would recommend them to be bored to the next size, or at least honed out as any engine builder would say. Although I was just going to replace the rings... I can still see some Crosshatching from when I put the jugs back on. They have about 2 seasons of use on them I believe. They are in excelent shape and it was a PITA to get them to look so good. They can be re-coated with some fresh Metalcast, or stripped and polished. (There is a small ding on in one of the sleves, but it has been there for some time, and is not in a critical location. It was there since I put it together) I believe you can see it in the pictures.. Porting is by Passion RE, this is the 12-port. Hell the porting was as expensive as I'm letting these go for. I also have 19cc domes available. Was trued and welded before I put in the Passion RE Motor. Welds are in great shape, it was running fine when I pulled it apart. If you have any questions on bearings etc let me know.

I thought they were still selling brand new banshees in Canada.

I got mine too but I don't have my banshee. I'm not all that impressed with it. Oh well...

get the G-force and save some cash.

I'm sure he does not hear you since Mr. R Stator R.I.P