Justintoxicated

I would ditch that lowes tubing it's not good at all, get the Mc master or thicker walled Tygon (will benearly an inch O.D I believe to prevent kinks). Nothing is kink proof, which is why sometimes you have to make longer runs rather than the prefered shorter ones. You can also use Zip Ties around trouble areas to help prevent kinking. The longer the run the more resistance in the loop which is why you want to keep length to a miniumum and use larger rather than smaller tubing. Also avoid making 90 deg bends, whenever possible, as they are very restrictive. Did you take a look over the [H] forums? Go to overclocking -> water cooled and look at all the setups questions etc....Honestly I would switch to the Mc Master Tubing and hose clamps (lowes has the worm/ hose clamps) The clip on type don't do shit. I know it's alot of work but I would really suggest changing the tubing as to prevent another incident, Nylon Tubing just isn't suited for WC a PC if I remember correctly. I think you will be topping it off frequently and the tubing will likely stain. Actualy first make a post on the [H] and tell them what tubing you used, they will be able to give you much better info on why not to use it than I can. I just rememebr reading that I should definately NOT be using the tubing from lowes. Invest in the Worm Drive clamps!!!! could save you $100's Your best bet will be to re-install windows, unless you can buy a 1 TB drive and try to ghost the image over. I know this is alot of extra work, esp with changing the tubing again and re-testing the system. But your Raid config is honestly Garbage. It's always a good idea to test run the loop for 1/2 hour before installing it in the system. Then I like to jumper the PSU and run the loop installed for another 24 hours before starting the PC. I also vacume tested my loop to check for leaks lol, although a nice "leak Down Test" would be the better way to go. Resevoir does bleed the air out of the system much faster, but if you are running for 24 hours prior to first turn on anyways, all the air will collect in the T-line anyways. I didn't notice much cooling difference from having a little air in the line anyways, so it's just a little noisy untill it bleeds out. T-line is even easier to refil/ monitor levels and top off than a resevoir. But Everyone even on [H] has their own opinions of resevoirs You know mine! I cleaned up my desk finaly this weekend (Bought those swiveling Costco Power strips and ziptied them under the desk so now I dont have kabillions of wires at my feet lol). Yea I'm a computer nerd, that is how I make my living. We are a rare breed of nerds who ride tricked out banshees lol. I thought I was the last of them! I'll try to get some pics, you can make fun of my hardware it's all old now My mistake when setting up my ststem was using little bit of dish soap to lubercate the tubing to slid onto the barbs, Actualy it took some soap and heat from my heat gun to get the tubing on (It was pretty hard to get over the barbs which was definately a GOOD thing). Ended up with a little foam in the loop, although I later read that the slight bit of soap could actualy be a good thing (no foam anymore more so it was trace amounts). I also used like 2-3 times as much coolant as is recommended, but I don't care as I have excelent temps and have not had to touch it since. Were you running vista 32 before when you had the memory issues? or vista 64? All Windows 32 bit OS have this stupid limitation. Could also be from the MB too I suppose although usualy a bios flash can fix thigns like that. You pump could also have died if it was in the wrong place in the loop, and hence built up air in it. Typicaly - it is easiest if the pump is located under the T-line or resevoir and before the radiator or CP block. Basicaly the idea is to get it full of fluid before you turn it on for the first time. my MB runs hotter than my CPU, and so does my video card! My MB does not have liquid cooling though.

I have a similar testor with that nice adapter at the end. Mine is a Mighty Vac and seems to be fairly accurate. I was reading about 155 lbs with 19CC domes after porting, after the rings seated it read ~170 PSI. How did you CC the area inside of the adapter? Also there is some area in the space around the base of the sparkplugs normally anyways? were you able to CC that?

If your local we can meet up and save on shipping. I can try to get some more pics but right now it is in San Diego and I am in Long beach. I'll have my Dad snap some more pictures, it is at his place. I'm looking to get $20 + shipping for it, or just $20 and local pickup. I can't imagine this costing over $12 to ship. As of now I will ONLY SHIP TO CONFIRMED PAYPAL ADDRESSES. As one member had me ship an item to an alternate address that was not confirmed and now the package is missing. F*CKING Post office

Get rid of the resovior and use a T-line like I suggested. Acrylic Resevoirs tend to crank/leak. Did you test run the sytem like I suggested for 24 hours? I.E. Make sure there were no leaks or kinks? Did your pump fail due to leaks? or did you get leaks from overheating due to pump failure. I'd go for the D5 if that is not the pump you got. Did you use Worm Drive clamps like I suggested? Not sure how it leaked other than resevoir if you used those? Did you use 5/8th inch tubing? It's much less prone to leaking when used with 1/2 inch barbs and you can get like 15 feet for $20 through Mc Master. The Coolant you used that spilled on the memory slots was the non conductive kind? If so and it didn't work as advertised then thats another reason to just use pentosin. I hate hearing Horror sotries, really scares others away from Liquid Cooling too. However it's probably a good thing, although it can be very reliable if you know what you are doing. Some of the new Mac's are even Liquid inside. Also checkout www.hardforums.com or www.extremesystems.org rather than BHQ for advise. I tend to know the info, but I'm not 100% up to date like the info you would pull off a buisy forum.

Good job, that was exactly what I ment bro. Now you have a fast PC. Although I'm not a fan of Asus Boards and overclocking, they tend to really blow, but I have had problems with every MB manufacturer at some point or another , I probably would have gone with the Abit Board, but I havenot researched that one specificaly, typicaly I really feel Asus boards are way over priced. Usualy the point in liquid cooling is to have a stable and large Overclock while keeping the CPU cooler than it would be witht he stock cooler. I thought the hardware seemed kind of out of date only because of what I am running and my system being out of date. I have an AMD Opteron 165 Overclocked @ 2700 MHZ per core with increase FSB to match my PC4000 DDR (Yes this old DDR is actualy faster than some DDR2) In fact DDR2 or 3 or whatever is mostly a gimmic since they decreased the timings so badly (Higher number). But it is required on the new PC's to make people buy new memory. I'm guessing you decided to go with 2GB due to the 32 bit OS limitiations. 4GB Memory ONLY works correctly in Vista 64, not Vista 32 or Xp 32. Reasons is that some of the shared memory in the 4GB max comes from the video card ect, so your PC would likely only detect like 3.3 gig should you put in 4gb and not run Vista 64 witha 512mb card. I hope you purchased some quality Memory if you intend to OC. My PC is 2.5 years old right now and I'm wanting a quad core myself. However I think I can easily stretch it out for another 6 mo with my current system (its about as fast as an FX55 I believe). I'm sort of riding out the switch to vista 64 a little longer, because I do want 4GB memory in my next PC, but right now VIsta 64 has a tone of problems and lack of support. I would much rather have picked up a single 8800 GTS than 2 ATI cards myself. I'm not a fan of crossfire really, but I'm not brand loyal or fanboy either I switch back and fourth depending on what is faster at the time. Right now ATI is pretty far behind Nvidia. I will try to get some pics of my system this weekend too I have been meaning to do it for like 2 years lol. My Room is all messed up haha and I don't want people to see it that bad! Remember to keep the tubing as short as possible without kinking it and to always run it for a day or so before booting up the PC. It wasn't that bad was it? Are you going to liquid cool the video cards? SHIT One more thing. Get those HD's out of Raid As soon as possible! For these reasons. 1) Raid -0 performance will likely be slower than a single drive if you do not have 2 matched drives. 2) You can get data corruption easier with mismatched drives, esp if the drives are not designed for Raid (IE Western Digital has a raid version and non raid version of each drive) 3) your losing nearly 50% of the storage on that second drive. You would be better off using the faster of the two drives for your OS and using the other as storage. DO NOT RAID-0 Two Miss Matched Drives your asking for problems and slow downs there is NO enefit to doing so. Please take this advice here it is KEY in your new system. Theres alot of articles on storagereview.com if you have any Raid Questions or else I can try to help. I had 4 HD's in raid 0 on a 4 channel card in the past. Seek times sucked but loading contigious files WAS faster. However your increaseing your chances at data loss by 4 (One drive goes you lose ALL your data on all 4 drives). Now Raid-0 does have it's place. I would love to pickup another Raptor HD and Raod-0 them for the OS. But I'll keep my data drives without raid unless i'ts Raid-5 or Raid-1. And rather than using Raid-1 I prefer an external USB storage drive to do automatic weekly backups to. As far as that coolant, Price means nothing. Use it if you wish, but for anti-corrosion, and keeping nasty stuff from growing and keeping a nice blue color, Pentosin is the shit. use what you have if you want, but I would not put it in my loop. I'm lazy and don't like to clean blocks and replace coolant lines though. If you don't mind breakign it down in a year I'm sure you will be fine After all Mc Master Tubing is cheap as hell I think I got enough for 3 systems for $20 shipped. Remember the Worm Drive clamps and that is is better to use 5/8th than 1/2 for a tighter fit, with possible exception being if you used 1/2 inch tygon jsut cause thats good stuff.

I'm building a 421 Cub Duner right now....And from what I heard PV's are overrated anyways. I was thinking about a 421 Cheata with PV, but I read the cub will end up working a little better at the hill, plus I don't need a special head or new reeds etc. I should have more lowend than my 350 stock stroke anyways. Sticking with CPi Big Bores too. Sure Shearers make more power but they just suck on a dune bike. Looked into Trinity pipes but decided it would be holding the motor back too much. But if the CPI's don't work out I will switch to something else possibly the trinity pipes.

Not much done here, BFG Mud's Stillen Exhause AEM Intake Timing Advance HID Headlights HID Foglights Wet Oakly Seat Covers Headlight Mod (Allows Foglights to turn on independent of Low beams and High Beams; such that you can run Low High and Fogs all at once) PRG Upper Arms with custom valved SAW Coilovers (4inch of added travel and keeps cente of gravity low) DR rears Keyless Entry pad inside fuel tank door Stereo: Exlipse HU DLS Iridium Comps TC 1000 Subs Diamond 1200.1 amp Arc Audio 2100 amp 0 ga w/ Big 3 done. 3+ Spools of RAAMAT deadening and ensulite foam covering inside and outer doors, floor and backwall. Kinetic battery 2 Meter & 440 meter Ham Radio next mods: Dual Onboard Air Compressors and Air Horn, AUX backup lights, maybe a bull bar and then I'm pretty much done.

Crank and Cylinders now on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=290158042421 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem

Front Plastics - For Sale Gas Tank Shroud - For Sale Grill - For Sale Cover - Who wants a cover plus switches? Shifter - For Sale Bumper - For Sale Light Covers - For Sale Stock Rear Wheel Hub - For Sale Crank = For Sale Cylinders = For Sale

D.I.D. X-ring but that primary drive sounds interesting. My DID lasted me 3 front sprockets and I am going to change the rear as well, chain is still in good shape.

And a light that turns on when you get down to 1/2 gallon

Stator Sold, Flywheel Sold Rear Plastics Sold Axle Sold Cylinders Pending Crank - Bearings look fine, no up down play. Checked the rod clearance and Stator Side has .019, Gear Side .017 Both are still within factory specks. Front Plastics - For Sale Gas Tank Shroud - For Sale Grill - For Sale Cover - Who wants a cover plus switches? Shifter - For Sale Bumper - For Sale Light Covers - For Sale Stock Rear Wheel Hub - For Sale

Yea I pulled it out of my motor, which ran fine, just decided to go with a cub for this year. It was trued and welded before it went in not after I pulled it, but none of the wleds cracked or anything. I'm bringing it over to my friend's tomarrow who is Banshee Guru and has all the calipers n stuff to check it out. I need to pull the drive gear off it with an impact I will ask him to look it over to be sure, but nothing I could see wrong with it, and I would still be running it if I didn't decide to go with a 4 mil. Some people like to replace the bearing on one side to be safe since it is used, but I don't see any problems with it or anything like that. Those pics were taken fresh from the pull thats why there is oil, and some yamabond particles on it.

Pull the A-arms off and fill them new grease. At miniumum re-grease all Zerks. Banshees REALLY do not like water. I would suggest getting a different ATV if you plan on submerging it again. Likely you will have a bad rust problem develope somewhere. Your flywheel is going to rust, the pipes are going to rust, crank could have some problems now etc.

I change mine every year sometimes 2 or more times. It's expensive but it works and it's a good product and non toxic. And since I always spill coolant, I like the fact it is not toxic. Looks like blue coolaid! You could also try Pentosin coolant, it is also blue and cheaper. Has super anti corrosion in that stuff likely much better than engine ice.

Been posted here before, it's a classic.

Well banshees might be good technology, but it's definately old technology. But in 20 years you can be like these are the kinds of motors we used to run, Used to cook them up and fry them by the dozen, back in the 70's (Banshee motor is from the 70's....).

Yes I still have it.

So where can I get j=ust the gauge? Or do I need a whole new tester Oh yea and I always just screw mine in finger tight anyways.

From my understanding WSM makes some damn nice pistons. I heard better/equivilant to wiseco but $$$$. I'm going to have WSM's going into my cub but I don't have the kit yet.

Going to do something similar only with a HAM radio so that people can actualy understand WTF I am saying (FM Radio). That and the range is amazing, I was talking to my buddy in San Diego from Long Beach on my hand held! Not sure how well voice activated would work on a loud ATV, but it would be cool if you could hear what people yell when they eat it.

you could juat buy the chrome tank top cover Since the rest of the tank is hidden anyways.

I dropped my mityvac and the ground and the gauge went off so I fixed it but no way Will I trust it untill I compare to another one. Luckily it has a nice brass piece with a head to use as an adapter. Anyone know where I can get a reliable gauge or else I will just get a craftsman one and use my brass adapter.

Hmm at first thats what I thoguht but since it's only one cylinder and it kind of looks like something was bouncing around on top, I figure it could be something else.

I shaved my head yesterday too, but about the bike I doubt you should not have to change any jetting for that, but might need to run race gas.