LaegerEliminator

Well....scratch that last coment. Seems to work great now! Thanks!

358, I can't seem to get beyond attaching the links. When I try to paste the IMG code all I get is what you see below. I must be missing something real simple. Like I said - not a computer whiz at all !

Super ! Thanks 358 ! So does that give you access to the whole album that I created on photobucket, or just the one picture? I would like to post a few more pics. PM me whenever your want. I'd be happy to chat. I dreamed of building this bike for over 12 years before I could scratch together the funds and time to build it. I started with a used bone stone stock cherry 2005 and developed it into what you see here. It took about a 10 months from the time I got the roller from Laegers untill it was totally complete. Loren and especially Leonard Duncan were extremely helpful in making this thing happen. It took a huge amount of massaging to make everything come together. A lot of stuff had to be hand crafted or tweaked to work properly, very little was quick bolt on. The results were worth it though.

[/img] See if this works. I am no genious at the computer.

Nice collection of pics there 358. I could have used some of those when I assembled my machine. The crew at Laeger's were not very helpful when it came time to assemble the chassis - some parts are banshee, some are 250R, some are YFZ450, and a lot is custom hand made. The Duncan crew, especially Leonard were / are very helpful though.

I'd be happy to post some pics of mine. Need help with how to post correctly though. Haven't posted any pics on here yet. Let me know and I will post when I can.

Just looking to see who else is out there with one. I built one in 2008. Not too many around. A great way to go for serious performance.

Alrighty guys Thanks! I was told NOT to put sealant on the key and crankshaft by another source. A guy can't seem to get a consistent or straight answer on certain things at times. Kinda like going to the doctor at times. Just opinions from experience.

No to the Yamabond. Yes to the seals.

To clarify, I am losing air at the crank and not from the seal when I spray soapy water on it. Thanks!

I have just completed a top and bottom end rebuild. While performing the pressure test I am losing air on the pto side of the crank from the drive gear, water pump gear and key area. This should NOT be happening.....Right? I am running Hinson Straight Cut Gears. Help PLEASE!! Need Input. Thanks

I am not sure what the exact fluid is, just a standard parts cleaning solvent. I use it in my parts washing tank/station. I purchase it from a local shop that carries it in bulk. I will get the details from the shop owner tomorrow. I had purchased new, clean fluid for the task. I am pretty sure I had a seal issue prior to pouring in the solvent, the loss was almost immediate upon pouring in the fluid. I removed the clutch cover and found the fluid leaking from the clutch side main seal. I was in the process of reassembling the top end since I just purchased new pistons and had the cylinders bored. I noticed a lot of carbon build up in the clutch side case. The motor seemed to run fine before I tore it down. Could this be an indication that something was not right?

So I am beggining to reassemble my topend. I was told by motor builder to pour some cleaning solvent into the bottom end and then dump out to give the bottom end a cleaning. After filling both crank case sides full, I noticed that I am losing solvent out the clutch side case. When I removed the tranny drain bolt, solvent came out. The flywheel side is not losing any solvent. Is this a problem? I am thinking this isn't going to pass a leak down test and that I have seal issues in my bottom end? Thanks

I just switched from a set of tag bars to Fasst Flexx and am very happy with the results. They now come standard with compression elastomers and rebound elastomers. Very noticable difference in vibration and bar feed back to your hands. I mostly ride motocross, hard big landings felt much better.

What's with the Laeger / Duncan Banshee in the pic MarineNYC?

Does anyone know what the proper torque spec is for the counter shaft nut that holds the sprocket on?

Thanks Loco....but did you read my last post? I have a complete Laeger's rolling chassis....this includes the stock length swinger with round house style carrier. It runs an LT500 axle. The only thing stock on my bike is the plastic, gas tank, and wiring harness, everything else is Laeger's, Duncan, aftermarket or hand made. I'll try the gearing change and see what happens. I've never posted any pictures on hear. give me a little input on how to post pics and I'll try to get them up soon. Thanks

I have a complete Laegers Pro-Trax rolling chassis. Nearly identical setup to what Duncan was winning the PDV races with except I went with Duncans 403 Eliminator motor instead of the 350 National motor. One of these days I will post up some pics. I primarily ride motocross, and occasionaly at St. Anthony. The swingarm is stock length rounds house style setup to use an LT500 rear TEAM rear axle and the rear brake caliper from a Yamaha FJ1200 street bike. The 15/40 has worked very nicely for me with my riding style. There is still a ton of top end left in it at WOT in 6th. This gives me a topspeed of 80 mph according to my GPS. I have wanted to keep it somewhat low geared for the way I ride most of the time. I figure that by going to 16/42 which is what I have on hand, that will be the closest option I can come up with. For what ever reason with the 15/40 gearing I cannot get the chain tension "just right" I end up having to run the chain pretty loose. Then when I corner real hard the chain starts to chatter on the rear sprocket. So far I haven't be able to get the chain to stretch enough to remove a full link, even with my bearing carrier rolled to the loosest setting. It must have something to do with the relationship of the motor in the chassis and the swingarm pivot.

Sounds good, thanks for the replies. I'll have to change my gearing setup to get it right. I'm running 15/40. Even with a brand new chain I can't quite get the sweet spot. I might try going to 16/42 and see what that does for me. When I go to St. Anthony I run 13/42 and can get the tension just perfect with another shorter chain.

I'm wondering if any one here ever uses a "half Link" on there setup? My chain slack is right between the sweet spots, not loose enough to remove a whole link and too loose to leave it where it is now. I'm using a DID 520. Thanks

To a certain degree you are right...it just shortens the spring...but as the spring compresses it gets stiffer. I found on my carbs the springs are under quite a bit of pressure once you install the carb tops. IMO there is simply way more spring length than needed. By shortening the spring length you reduce the amount of pressure on the slides from idle to wot...plus it makes it much easier to adjust the needles too. With the factory length it is more difficult to remove the throttle cable from the slides. With the shortened springs it becomes much easier in my experience.

I have them with my Duncan 403 Eliminator motor. They were very stiff for me too. Drove me nuts! When I asked one of the Duncan crew about it they suggested going to a twist throttle. I can't stand twist myself....tried it several different times....just not for me. When I asked about shortening the springs they said it was a bad idea becasuse if you shorten them too much your slides could potentialy stick open. Their suggestion was to slide each spring over the proper sized wooden dowel and very carefully sand the exterior of the spring evenly with a real fine grit sand paper. I attempted to do this and it was way too much of a PIA for me. I ended up simply shortening each of the springs. I made two attempts at it in stages to be carefull. My first attempt I took off about 25% of each spring length. They were still a bit stiff for me at that. I think that I took off another 15% or so after that and stayed there. This made a considerable difference on the overall for me.....and so for for about 18 months I have had zero trouble with the slides sticking....they still snap back plenty hard imo and evenly every time and difference for rideability was great for me. Hope this helps.

Got it.....Thanks!

Sounds good...Thanks for the info. Is there any actual hills or anything worth jumping? Is it worth putting on the paddles? Any one else got any tips or info feel free. We were thinking of camping out for one night. Do you think the weather will be reasonable for that in two weeks?

Thinking about taking a trip over to Moses Lake later this month to meet up with my broher in law at the sand at Moses Lake. I was looking for any input that any one has, I've never riden there. Does a guy need to have WA registration, is there anyone that patrols the sand, best place to go, ect. Thanks