LaegerEliminator

Can you elaborate on the gyro effect with a sc? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Got any pics?

Tyler - there are multiple adjustments on this unit. You can adjust the lever attitude just like on an ASV perch for finger reach comfort, then at the mc there is a small thumb screw that you can dial in and out just like you would set your cable tension with a standard unit, plus you can adjust the linkage where the sc attaches to the actuator arm. Like r.r.l. says, the bladder should compensate for any temp changes. I tried tuning my pushrod as well which helped a bit, just not enough. I found that the slave cylinder seemed to have more travel available in it that what it was traveling thru lever input - that what makes me think that I am some how not getting the system fully blead out. I haven't used a might tee vac on it but did use a syringe and plastic hose and tried to suck it from the mc and I also tried the opposite and tried to force the fluid up from the slave cylinder. The results were about the same either way. I can bleed my brakes in minutes using these same techniques. I am wondering if I need to fasten the sc into a fixed position while bleeding and if that would make the final difference since when you are pumping up the lever to build pressure then release any more air the sc moves the actuator arm a small amount??? I also used the adjustment screw at the mc/lever. This didn't seem to result in the slave traveling any further though... Just disengaging the clutch partially when you didn't want it too, like overtensioning a cable setup. I did have to modify the aluminum bracket that holds the slave cylinder in place. The way this bracket comes from Streamline the bottom of my 35 PKW's hit the top of the sc. I had to grind out some of the aluminum to lower the sc. I am 100% certain that this did not effect the slaves's ability to fully retract, the pivot point and distance from the actuator arm stayed identical, just lowered. I did not notice any difference between hot and cold either.

So I placed another call to Streamline today. I spoke with a guy named Paul. He was very helpful and responsive. When I told him about not being able to fully disengage the clutch he indicated that the Banshee setup is the hardest to tune to operate 100% correctly. He offered some pointers on the steps to correctly adjust it to work. I'm pretty sure I already covered all of his recommendations, but we will see...you never know till you try again... When I mentioned the leak at my master cylinder he was quick to ask if it was leaking at the cover to the mc. I told him that was where it appeared to be coming from. He indicated that they experienced a bad batch of rubber bladder/seals that the oil would play havoc on the rubber itself and casue it to breakdown and lose its sealing properties. He immediately offered to send out a complete rebuild/seal kit at no charge. He was pretty confident that this would cure my leak issues. Also Streamline is no longer offering this product anymore. They will still carry parts and offer service though. I guess this product was tricky to produce and with atv sales dropping in the last 3 years it wasn't panning out anymore. So I will see what happens when I get the kit and try over again...

I started out with, and currently use an ASV lever and quick adjust perch and I agree this works well, especially with a new cable and fresh lube. I am just hoping to take things to the next level to reduce fatigue like when I added Faast Flexx Bars. My goal with the hydraulic clutch is to simply be able to ride as fast as possible with the greatest amount of control for at least 30 minutes at a time for mostly MX riding. I am fine for short periods and for casual riding and duning, but when riding fullout in technical conditions and with the amount of clutch finess needed to maintain maximum forward momentum and traction my hand gets tired and fatigued towards the end of a moto. I realize track time and conditioning are just as important to my goal. When riding a 4 stroke there is so much less effort needed that the problem is hardly there.

Does anyone else have a Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic clutch setup on any of their bikes? I have had mine a little over a year and have experienced 2 issues that I cannot seem to resolve. 1) It wont fully disengage the clutch - I don't know if I am not getting it fully blead out or not. I have spent hrs trying to get any air our with no success. In genral this thing is a pain to bleed compared to brakes. It seems to operate fine and with less resistance, except that the slave cylinder will not fully travel, fully compress and completely disengage my clutch. The lever bottoms out before the slave cylinder fully compresses. 2) Leaking at the master cylinder - sometime late last winter it developed a leak at my master cylinder and emptied the reservoir. I cannot tell if it leaked at the banjo bolt connection or at the lid to the master cylinder, or possibly both. The bike was sitting for some time in my heated garage and had not been rode for several months so it seems hard to unstand why this would occur just sitting there with only moderate temperature changes where it was parked. I could not find any sign of losing fluid at the slave cylinder or lower banjo bolt. Several times over the winter I sat on the bike and worked the levers and controls and everything was fine until one day there was no resistance and I found the reservoir empty... I only had the unit on the bike for about 6- 7 hrs of ride time before I took it back off due to these issues, i'd prefer to run it if I can get the bugs worked out... My last call to Streamline sometime last spring didn't provide much for insight or help. Any thoughts? Thanks

Here's mine Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

The cast grey colored inserts that your upper ball joint threads run through on the a-arm can be exchanged for different inserts with ball joint hole placed at a different offset instead of centered like yours. This would allow you to adjust your caster with your a-arms. I need to figure out how to quickly post pics from my phone to show you. I don't see pics of them on Laegers site. This must be the $50 upgrade option. I see your reasoning on the forces applied under compression. My way of thinking is that the pressures exerted while cornering through rough terrain or a harsh landing while turning would create a greater force trying to "pull" the top of the spindle. I suppose your wheel offset could have a large effect on this too. I can see this could be argued either way. It would be nice to have some engineering data on this. Just my $0.02 It looks like you are running 3/2 wheels? Why not use 4/1 wheels with +3" arms? Wouldn't this give you better overall handling and suspension feel, maintain your same width and have a very minimal impact on weight? Is your new thinner nut a lock nut?

On my Laeger setup I can adjust both caster and camber. Do yours offer these adjustments too? They look like they do from your pics. Mine came with three different oval bushings to adjust the caster attitude, then I can adjust and dial in the camber by adjusting the jam nut between my tire and a-arm then tighten it with the oversized lock nut like yours on the reservoir side. This leaves me with a couple of threads showing on the reservoir side. It looks to me that if you ever want to adjust your camber for a more negative setting that you could have further issues. Same with the caster settings. I would be very hesitant to run a thinner nut on there. There's a ton of potential force on that nut imo... I'd start raising hell with your source if it was me.

That's gonna ef with you camber adjustment and any future camber tuning. How much clearance do you have with your Stage 5 Elkas fully compressed?

Well that stinks Tyler....... I knew that it looked too close in your pics especially compared to my setup. Sounds like the source that assured you they would work needs to get their info straightened out...

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff425/Laegereliminator/2005Banshee002-1.jpg

http://m1235.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Laegereliminator/2005Banshee002.jpg.html?o=79&newest=1

So do you have clearance with the Elkas fully compressed? It still looks really close in the pics. I will see if I can post some pics of mine later on.

In an earlier post Tyler stated that his Elkas were 19"

In an earlier post Tyler stated that his Elkas were 19"

Tyler are your Stage 5 Elkas 19" or 17.25" ?

Tyler: for what it is worth - I am running 19" Stage 4 Elkas on the front my bike and I have zero clearance issues. My a-arms have the same jam nut, lock nut and adjustable caster setup as yours do. Keep in mind though that I am running a full Laeger chromoly chassis with 250R geometry and a Pro-Trax front end - so it's really not an apples to apples comparison, however I am running the equivalent of a +2" front end. My front end measures 48" with 4-1 wheels. Hopefully you can get a straight answer from Scott at Laegers. In my experience his customer service and his willingness to be helpful is not that great at times so be prepared.... Besides poor service at times I am extremely happy with this setup and the quality and performance of the Laegers products.

Tyler did you try mounting your stage 5 Elkas?

Sweet !!! I will look that up and see what I find. Thanks !

LMAO !!! That was good. I showed my kids and they almost rolling on the floor !!! Thanks

In the wrong setting cranked up loud of course. I have a client who has a Formula 1 car shifting thru the gears on his phone and it sounds great when it's not set a max volume. I thought doing the same with my Banshee or another ringtone available would sound great! To each his own............

I fiddled with it for a few min and couldn't figure out how. Any suggestions? I'm using a Razr Maxx

I am wondering if any body knows where I can go to get them? I entered in the searched and found the short thread on this from Sept. 2008. I wasn't sure if there are some newer and easier was to do this these days. I am using Verizon. Thanks !

PT mids would be great for most riders. I run the PTR High Revs on my Duncan 403 Eliminator motor and am very happy with it on most tracks. I love it on high speed and more open tracks. On really tight, slow and technical tracks its a handful and a pretty good workout.