LaegerEliminator

I think your intentions are good, but it is going to be very tough to find a quality, professional frame builder who is willing to take this on and have it come out at a cost to you that is reasonable. I would urge you to look further into a Laegers Pro-Trax or an LSR Outlaw chassis setup. Both can still be purchased new too. You could spend the time to try to learn how do build it yourself, especially since you have a claimed close relationship with a machine/fab shop already. But you will be in for a long and grueling challenge. Evan, THE358BANSH, has been the only one on here to go down this road even close to successfully and he still has not completed his build. Evan has his crap together too and knows his stuff, extremely well. There are more challenges to doing this right than what most would perceive. I built a Laegers Pro-Trax bike in 2008. Was it expensive, YES. Well worth the expense and effort though. There is a night and day difference from a stock chassis to mine. You have to know that even with purchasing a bike that was built in a jig, things still don't fit 100% like oem and a lot of stuff had to be modified or massaged into place. I understand your thoughts on building something that will use modern and readily available a-arms, swing arms, shocks, ect. This does make good sense. I have been told the an LSR Outlaw chassis uses 250R replica components, so you could use other vendors suspension and not just LSR's. Again this is what I have been told, I don't know this for 100% certain. People on here would dog you a whole lot less if you didn't come across as bi-polar and off your meds from time to time. You do have some good ideas and thoughts, but every once in awhile you go out into left field and just keep running...

Trying to get some input on the idea of using a lock out or a lock up clutch setup. I currently am running a Hinson billet spring loaded basket, straight cut gears, 7 plate Duncan clutch. 3 oem springs, 3 stiffer Duncan springs. Oem pressure plate and hub. ASV F3 lever and motion pro cable with lube. No pancake bearing. Transmission is stock except for modded shift star. My riding is mostly mx then duning. My goal is to find a setup that allows me the best clutch control without wearing out my hand at the end of a moto. Casual riding it is fine, just a bit much for intense riding. I have tried a hydraulic clutch with ok results. Mostly a pain to deal with. Will a lock out or a lock up work for my riding style? I have read that either one will make the tranny harder to shift unless I get the pro mod or an over ride. What's your feed back guys?

So it looks like the UPP design is a one piece unit per side? What are they made of?

Aren't the float bowls specific to the left and right carbs because of the choke and choke tube setup on stock carbs? Did you put the correct bowl back onto the correct carb? I reversed mine years ago and it wouldn't run right at all... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Got it. Thanks Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Why Chariot versus the FAST unit I'm looking at? I see that the Chariot model has an air fin in it.

Jim, help me understand why you want a + 6" swing arm on a bike you plan to ride and race trail with? With your Auto CAD designed bike idea are you planning to stretch the front end forward at all?

Thought so. That seems more like it. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

The LTR-450 was discontinued because the EPA was suing the pants off of Suzuki due to the easy access plug in Cherry Bomb design. Not due to a lack of sales compared to the competition. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback guys. So I'm still wondering, will this one piece manifold bolt up to stock cylinders AND a Serval? Are the widths and spacing the same? Those of you that say to ditch the Pyramid reeds setup, what is your reasoning and experiences, proof, ect...? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

I'm looking for feed back on this intake manifold setup. BILLET ONE PIECE INTAKE 33-35MM BILLET INTAKES 33-35MM These intakes are a work of art, not only do they work good but they look even better. We have them to fit 33-35s. They are a 1 piece design with built in crossover tube. And a bonus: they are angled up to keep your BIG carbs from rubbing on the clutch arm! I'm running stock cyclinders with 35 PWKs on my Duncan 403 motor. It has the Duncan Masterflow Intake and Pyramid Reeds setup now. I am thinking of trying out this manifold. My questions are: Will this work with both stock cylinder and a Serval cylinder setup? Will I need to use different reeds then what I have now? I was thinking of trying VF 4's

Did you ever ask your builder about using a torque wrench?

Ha! LOL Good thing Thack didn't post that idea... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

SKEETER only knows this from his own personal experience Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

^^^ Is that zip tie holding up to the heat coming off your stinger tubes? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

WOW !!! Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Can you get 4:56 gears? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

My $0.02 I would do the intercooler for sure. Air intake, turbo down pipe and complete exhaust. The more air flow the better. I would also look into an auxiliary tranny cooler with electric auxiliary fan to keep things in check. Your current tranny mods will be very helpful. On our 2000 SD we have found that we like our Banks Ottomind chip the best on the overall. It is the smoothest and cleanest running unit that we have tried. We have also ran a Bully Dog down loader which was OK, but not as smooth as the Banks. We have also used a TS 6 position chip with custom tunes. The custom tunes generate more power, but again, not as smooth running overall. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

At the tires Dave, not crank HP and torque. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Dave with that setup that John has he will spank a stock 6.0 in the towing department. He should be at least 350 HP to the tires if not closer to 400 and 750-850 lbs of torque. Stock 6.0 will be about 250-275 HP and 500-550 torque to the tires. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Have you calculated what rpm will that put you at in third gear at 70-75? So at 8,000 dry what will it weigh with bikes and fluids? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

What tranny do you have? How big and heavy is your fifth wheel? What cruising speeds do you plan to tow at? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

Perfectly and professionally stated JD !! Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

I second this request. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

The difference here JD is that you are a hands on type that knows both sides, the practical real world and then what it should calculate to. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk