LaegerEliminator

My personal work truck, my '08 F550 with 6.4 has had pretty serious issues. My first motor hydro locked and grenaded at 40,000 miles. The warranty short block that was installed, not a complete new long block, went less then 1,000 miles before it failed with a scored cylinder and piston. A tech had dropped floor dry in the motor. At 54,000 miles the motor still ran, but didn't run 100% and was getting even worse fuel mileage then normal. I took the truck to a different dealer who went through the motor top to bottom and replaced anything that was questionable that they could get passed through warranty. Up to that point the motor was 100% stock, never tuned or deleted, ect. The truck ran better and all seemed fine. About 3,000 miles later I added a tuner and deleted the factory exhaust for a 5". The truck was suddenly a night and day different and better truck. My empty fuel mileage went up about 30% and my heavy towing mileage went up literally 100%. The available power increase was amazing. Significant power gains from the tuner. At about 65,000 miles the motor developed another tick. Upon tear down I found two cylinders and pistons with scoring. So currently that truck is sitting in my shop with no engine it. The next motor that goes in it will be at my expense. All of my research attributes the majority of the troubles to fall back to emissions equipment failures. The bottom line is that the early emissions systems don't allow the motors to be used for short distance driving and any prolonged idling. They start a snow ball effect inside the motor that goes down hill rapidly. A local concrete guy here has an '09 of '10 F350 singe cab, srw, 6 speed manual with 6.4. He has just over 200,000 miles on his with no issues until this fall when he found the need to replace the injectors. He ran it with the emissions in place for the first 150,000 +/- miles. I think the primary difference is he drives long distance twice each day from home in the woods to town where we work, about 35-40 miles each way. He also doesn't idle his as much as I did mine. The longer driving distance allows the motors to fully cycle the dpf regen mode and helps to keep things cleaned out better and reduce or eliminate the issues that I have had. I have found this same scenario to be true with multiple other owners and comparisons of how they use their trucks. This isn't exclusive to the 6.0 and 6.4 Powerstrokes either. I know of a number of guys locally who have emissions related issues with their 6.7 Cummins.

Do you have access to the repairs and warranty history on it? Here's my 0.02 and experience: In hindsight, I should have deleted and retuned my 6.4 from the day I drove it new off the dealer lot. The emissions systems on these motors is even more detrimental then on the 6.0. Especially in shorter distance and higher idling type of work like I do. It seems as though the 6.4 trucks that are driven for longer distance and have fewer idling hours on them have fewer issues.

How cheap? How many miles? Is the motor fully stock now, all emissions systems in place? Was it ever tuned? My 6.4 F550 has been a problem child.

You might need to PM him Green.

For MX riding: Front: 20-6-10 ITP Holeshots mxr6 Rear: 18-10-8 ITP Holeshots mxr6 For trails: Front: 22-7-10 ITP HD Holeshots Rear: 20-11-9 ITP HD Holeshots Sand: Front: 21-7-10 Sand Stars or Mohawks Rear: 20-11-10 Sand Stars or Skat Trak Edges

Yes, purchasing the correct sized front tires for your desired type of riding is important for best performance.

If it was my build I would go with +3+1 arms and 4/1 wheels.

Correct again. Some don't care or don't think there is much of a difference between them in terms of bump steer. Others just don't realize the differences.

Correct Correct Correct

Opposite of what you described here. Valve stem, external side will be 1" deep. Hub/brakes, internal side will be 4" deep.

21-7-10 fronts Correct. Wheels will be 5" wide with either a 4"/1" depth or 3"/2" depth.

Well, at least you admit to being a Newbie... Most MX guys want a front end that is a minimum of 48" wide and a maximum of 50" wide. Someone else will have to comment on the arm widths with an oem chassis since mine is not oem. I do belive that +3 arms with 4/1 wheel offset will give you approximately 50" width. 4/1 wheels will have less offset (your width will be narrower) and the offer better steering response with less bump steer versus 3/2 wheels. 3/2 wheels will offer more offset (your front end will be wider by 1" per side, 2" total) but the reduced steering performance and more bump steer. I personally run 4/1 wheels for track and trail riding and 3/2 wheels for sand riding.

How wide do you want to be? What offset of front wheels do you plan to run? What size front tires?

More truth ^^^

Truth ^^^

Thacker will start out decent and will have ideas that seem good at first, then he just starts heading for left field and runs with it waaay out there.

When Thacker provide solid proof that this build is actually under way, then, maaaybe he will have a miniscule amount of credibility. Maybe... I wouldn't hold your breath waiting.

More pics, more info. Looks good!

Your custom frame has new issues?

Not the best pics, but here is how I cut mine front and rear.

When you say shaved, do you mean cut front fenders? Very few banshee guys run full front fenders. Especially with a mx build. Some dedicated trail guys will keep full fronts though.

I would strongly urge you to search some of his threads/posts here on BHQ thoroughly. This should give you an idea of what kind of personality Thacker has before you decide to reach out to him or not.

You're gonna be kicking open a big can of worms trying to reach out to him...

Someone else will have to chime in regarding other people's money. That's the first I've heard of that. However, he is the sort of guy who is full of far more "good ideas" then common sense and reality.