LaegerEliminator

Your Roll stem should come standard with 1 1/8" clamps. I would double check this when you place your order. Bar bend is going to be a personal comfort decision. Just my observations, guys with broad wide shoulders seem to prefer bars with a straighter shape and angle, like a 14 degree bend versus a 15. I'm more barrel chested and don't have wide shoulders. I prefer a 15 degree bend and have even cut a 1/2" of the ends of some of my bars to improve comfort. I'm a thumb throttle guy all the way.

Have either one of you road with relocated pegs?

I second what Tyler is saying. Research the nerfs that you like and see if they can be purchased in a pro peg option using oem bolt holes. If that doesn't pan out Arlo can either make some pro peg mounts to bolt up, or he can modify your frame for a permanent pro peg setup. If you come up with a relocated design, you will need to find a shorter shifter or have one modded. Same goes for the rear brake pedal.

I love MX riding and duning. I enjoy riding fast and jumping big. The atv racing scene around here was never very big and pretty well faded away around here about the time I got back into riding and finished my Laeger build. That was all just before the economy tanked, which hit western MT like a train wreck. I raced a stock frame Banshee in high school some and a few times in 2011 before the local circuit voted to just eliminate atv racing altogether since the attendance never really returned. I had intentions of getting serious about racing, but reality wasn't going to allow for it. I have 20 acres with a track that navigates the natural terrain changes and a pretty good mix of jumps.and features to it. Edit: I don't have any good pics in my phone with the track tires on it, which is how it is usually configured.

They were made by AC Racing. They call them: Pro Peg MX Pro with solid heel guards. This is kind of relative actually. The nerfs I have actually fit an 04-08 YFZ. For my chassis it was a matter of finding the right fit for the models that I liked most. I haven't looked in a very long time, but I'm certain there some options out there for an oem frame with the relocated pro peg option.

Some offer relocated mounts that bolt to your frame in place of the oem pegs.

Yep, you definitely need to find out this detail. My opinion and experience, it's definitely worth having the relocated pegs.

My stem is a Laeger's with anti vibe mounts. You have to keep in mind my whole chassis, suspension, step, ect is all Laeger's Pro Trax with 250R geometry, so some things are similar to oem, all of things are not. Edit: Talk to Arlo about the peg relocation. What is your plan for nerfs?

It's allows you to stretch yourself out and not be hunched up when riding. You gain quite a bit of comfort and control. A lot of guys will have their pegs moved back about 2" and down 1" This improves comfort as well as overall balance quite a bit.

The +2 is the height over oem/stock. The +1 is foward, away from you 1" You will appreciate at least +1 height and +1 forward at your height. I'm 5'9" and am setup at +2 +1 and really like it. Also, are you having your pegs relocated from oem position? That has some effect too. I really like my Faast Flexx bars. Worth the money imo.

You might try a washer or two between your pipe hanger and the frame to lean the pipe away from the petcock. Also you might be able to trim a small amount of aluminum off of your forward most silencer mount to further move things away. Just enough to keep the silencer from touching your frame if there is any excess currently.

Just my $0.02, you're gonna want to stick with a two piece design. You wheelie wrong or wreck wrong and the grab bar is going to bend.

Hopefully next August.

Trust me, it's worth it. I can guarantee if you are at all serious about riding aggressively and you ride one of these versus oem, you will see the value.

What is the DT ride and when is it?

For tfaith08's edification: A modern Laeger Pro Trax chassis will use yfz front calipers and hubs. The front rotors will be provided by Laeger. They are a wave style that are slightly larger in diameter then oem yfz. This results in better/stronger front braking. Typically the rear end has been built to use 250R components. Some early models were based upon Banshee. I think you can order it either way. You would have to ask if they can use yfz to keep things consistent. They will also build the rear to utilize LT500 components. That is how mine is setup. Everything is LT500 except for the caliper. My caliper is a 4 piston unit that came off of a Yamaha FJ1200 street bike. A brake stay will need to be sourced through Duncan Racing who has them made by ATV World in Europe.

Unless Tyler modified the front of his frame to simulate a 250R front end, you really won't be getting your money's worth on any level to suit your riding style. You're better of looking for a used Laeger Pro Trax chassis or LSR Outlaw, or saving your money and pulling the trigger on a new complete Laeger setup.

I agree with r.r.l. above. A bolt on subframe is definitely the better decision. Regarding the steering stem stop, reinforcing is a must do. Also, I believe that you can carefully trim the ends of the steering stop to create tighter turning. This should only be done AFTER you have bolted up your new front end and determined if you need to do this and if you can without creating any issues. If too much is ground off you will create bigger problems.

Sounds like you were taking riding lessons from DDQ

You should pm rjayb He has had similar issues with his. There's speculation that something with his motor and his chassis were creating some wierd harmonic vibration issue causing all kinds of loose hardware in places he had never experienced.

Did you experience this issue of everything coming apart on several different bikes, or just one in particular?

DO NOT Red loctite everything first! With as many parts as you are changing you need to only loctite certain bolts the first go round, like the intake manifold bolts, which should be blue. You should have nylon lock nuts in as many places as possible. Just about everything else should be torqued, or very confidently done by hand, then ride the bike during motor break in and retorque or tighten everything again. I would repeat this a third time after getting some additional seat time in. You WILL find hardware that has come loose or that will take more torque. New parts and hard ware need a chance to seat in / settle in, and then decide if you need to go to using loctite.

Broncos win !!

tfaith08, I'm on pretty much the same quest as you. Cam has built me a 5 mil race gas Serval. He did not fully assemble it per my request. I still have to do final assembly and all that. It was my intention to have him dyno it last summer when I made my annual Oregon dune trip. I wasn't able to make the trip happen. I still need to assemble the motor currently. My last motor setup was a stock cylinder Duncan 403 motor using PT High Revs. 5 mil stroke, 66mil bore. Cam ported it and cut domes specific to my intended ride style and with the idea of using the PT High Revs and focusing on low and mid range power. The hope is that the higher flow nature of those pipes will allow my motor to run strong in the bottom and mid for track riding and allowing it to breath like a Serval needs. We both fully understand the PT's are not going to let it rev out on top and build peak power like the Snipers will. But, back to the reality check, even if my motor is restricted by those pipes somewhat, it will still very likely build low to mid 80's for peak hp. Still way more then enough for track riding. If I find the PT High Revs to be a letdown then my plan is to go to Snipers assuming they will cooperate with my Laeger chassis. I'm speculating that I will end up using the PT's for track riding and have it tuned accordingly, and then i will run Snipers for dune trips again tuned accordingly. My carbs are 35 pwks that are bored to 36.5.

Let's have a little reality check here for a minute. With either the Snipers or CPI, you're looking at about a 95hp +/- motor. Most ameture and pro level mx riders are on bikes building around 55-60 hp. We both know that unless you're riding some very high speed and wide open tracks, that you will never come even close to using that much power. The goal needs to be what pipe, weather Snipers, CPI or some other pipe, will offer the most ridability for the type of tracks you're on the most. I'm assuming that Cam knows how you intend to use this motor?