blaster2006

lol @ that 30 pilot... ill go with what the other guy said 27.5 mains and either 2 screws out of tight or 1.5, 2 should be better though.... but ima have to say 280-290 mains. ive got the same setup as you but ive got K&N pod filters, and now im running 270 mains and its perfect.. im sea level 18-30 degrees celsius

just attach a moose racing boost bottle and it will stop puking coolant

it might be leaking jizz from the pistons.. nah just messin... well... if it smokes a lot... its surely burning oil or coolant.. its got nothing to do with the plus. if it smells weird and also smokes a lot when its on neutral and not revving (on idle) then its definately burning something like oil which means the crank seals are fucked. Personally for me ive got a small leak from my crank to my cylinders of engine oil. but im leaving it as is... who cares.. still runs fine and thats more lubrication.

best ones in my experience are bellray 80w, or maxima 80w or any of those "80w" oils... they are made with identical standards to fit that of the banshee... or just use any type of of 10w30 oil... as long as it does not have added chemicals in it. Take that advice if you want to be safe - but in the end it does not really matter what you put as long as its oil... as you can see people use ATF which is meant for the AUTOMATIC transmission fluid... and that works for the gearbox... my friends over here mix like 10w30 with 0w 40 oil and like 4 other types of oil and extra used oil as long as it fills up...

nevermind, we got it off with a hammer and chisel

it slides off the back sprocket ( it dislocates)... it can come off from the top of the back sprocket.. but then from the bottom where there is that plastic white thing that holds it under the back sprocket it gets stuck over there

Hey! i really need you guys help! I am trying to remove the chain on my banshee and i found out it does not have a lock? so there is no way i can remove it... i tried many ways and its not coming off... thats really stupid how stock chains dont have a friggin lock... I need to replace it and can't get it out. Reason why i need to replace: because its way too loose and i already extended the swingarm to its max and its still way too loose.. i've had this chain for 4 years now so it needs a change... but i need help on any suggestions on how to get it out.. my friend said he is going to get a grinder and grind it off..

From my experience, DMC are the loudest and sound best comparing to T5's / pro circuit.

Lol, 2 years, 1 thing for sure is the carbs are guaranteed to be clogged. for me if i leave the bowls of the carbs full of gas for 5 days it gets clogged. But since you said it stopped working 2 years ago as well, at that time the carbs must have been fine and it still wouldnt start then its not only the carbs sounds like something else too but ive got no clue, although it could be the stator you replaced, and now its a carb problem, so yeah id clean the carbs XD

Hey guys. I just put back my top end together. It starts up fine, but whenever i give it small revs, the cylinders just vibrate, and the pipes and the shifter too. then when its back to normal idle RPM, it stops vibrating. Is this normal? oh and btw i did not torque the nuts on the head down, i just tightened each one in the order given on the head, and tried to make it equal by hand.

yeah, they are like 3 different nuts by where the cable connects to the TORS, what way do i spin which one to make it to raise/ lower the slides?

Hey, just checked to see if my carbs are in sync, and they are WAY out of it. If i push the throttle just abit the left carb's slide moves and the other carb's slide does not move at all. So i tried tightening the big silver screw on the TORS for the carb that was not moving at low throttle( the right side carb)as much as icould till it wouldnt let me tighten it any more. And it still would not move up at low throttle and the other carb would. So i then loosened the other carb alot, and it still would go up on low throttle before the other carb that i tightened to the max its screw. Any help here?

all that shows me is how to sync a carb with a tool that i dont have. they are synced to as much as my eyes can see. more than that i dont know. dont have that much money to pay 50$ + international shipping for a sync tool i need to use for 10 seconds

so let me get this right, the crossover mainly helps if my carbs arent synced ( which they arent) no wonder it was sounding REALLY really lean, when we put our thumbs to block it temporaily. so i guess because its not synced. when we revved it abit with our thumbs on it... it was really throaty sound and you could hear the huge amount of air, as if it were really lean.. that bogging noise every time we tried to rev it a tiny bit... so i guess ill need the crossover.

yeah, i was kidding :/... but i what i really need to know is, does it make a difference if i block them or have a tube between them?