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Sandfrk33

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About Sandfrk33

  • Birthday 05/01/1975

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Barstow, CA
  • Interests
    punk rock, beer and kickin up sand.

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    93 banshee black/yellow 65 mil bore , wiseco forged pistons, Hot rods 115 long rod 4 mil. Herr jugs dune port. toomey t-5s, v-force 3's,OKO 30 carbs. 162 mains, 55 pilots, K&N pods, twist, vitos clutch, billet impeller, billet intake with built in crossover, +4 deg timing . Billet clutch basket, Modded shift star, Shift-pro shift kit, pancake bearing. more to come I'm sure

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  1. Hey guys, got an issue. I'm working on a bike for a friend. Mostly stock 97. The shift shaft is coming off the shift star and getting stuck. I already pulled it apart once and adjusted the actuator, but it did it again. Not sure how to diagnose the issue. Does the clutch cover hold the arm in place? If so, not sure how it's moving side to side. Any help is appreciated
  2. I hope its not, but I have to ask. Did you put a gauge on the leak down tester with a relief button. It will hold the pressure till you push the button. Just trying to help. Only thing that comes to mind
  3. Offers? I'll put them on ebay if no one wants them
  4. For sale. Prices include shipping in the US. Please PM me for paypal info. SOLD.....Chrome rear brake rotor hub for a stock axle. Used set of 7/8'' renthal banshee bend bars. These have some scratches from the levers. Not really noticeable when on the bike. $30.00 I also have 2 stock cranks with bad rods/bearings. If anyone wants them, make an offer or they are going in the trash. I can send pics if needed
  5. Carb size can vary from stock to 38mm depending on what you are doing with the bike. The larger the carb, the more top end. But you will lose bottom end. If you are going to trail ride it, I would go with 30-33. Drag race 36-39. Mine is a very rideable duner with 30OKO's on it. Need more info to help with an informed opinion
  6. I am in the middle of building a custom front end and noticed it. The motor is not centered, so they corrected it by moving the swinger off to one side. Not by as much as you said, but it is not centered to the front end. Like said before, stand it up and you get a better view
  7. Did mine a few years back. They really do make a nice difference. They almost feel like anti-lock brakes. You can still lock them up, but it slows down without doing it. Only thing I did different, was remove the brush guard completely. I'm in the sand with it, and it looks cleaner
  8. Got some left overs from the last r I built. Prices include shipping and fees. PM me for paypal info Clymers manual for 86-89 trx250r. Like new $15.00 2 new clutch cover gaskets, 4 new water pump gaskets, and a kicker seal. $25.00 Airbox eliminator. Outerwear has a few rips. Still usable $20.00 Stock rear shock from a 89. Spring is in good shape. Shock is a little beat up. Make offer 2 new sets of swinger bearings, 2 used swinger end caps. No sleeve. $15.00
  9. Had one leak before, but never come out. At least you can replace it without splitting the cases. As already stated, use a little yamabond and push a new one in
  10. First off, welcome to the site. Lots of good info on here, so get ready to spend some $$$ It is always good insurance to get the crank welded, but with a stock stroke, low compression motor, its up to you. I think a well set up motor like yours will be around 50-60hp depending on the porting. For future upgrades, you might want to look into a few other parts. Pancake bearing clutch adjuster, billet impeller, timing plate, reeds. The list will go on and on. Most of what I just mentioned is good for a reliable motor
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