AKheathen

There's a plastic bonding agent, just like with bare metal. Also a flex additive. Something that gets highly bent and beaten like a 4wheeler is always best just to get different color plastic. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

yes. not sure which terrebone, or the elevation, but probably in the 280-310 range. 27.5 pilot. if it hesitates at wot, go larger in size. if it sputters go smaller.

thats nothing but the mounting pad, from what i can see. should not effect the electrical connection. its only purpose is to not let the circuit ground out. go over the mounting bolts and surfaces, then the other connections. pay special attention to the cable retainer on the back, as that is the engine ground. last resort, strip some of that green wire back and see if it is dark or discolored.

the second vid looks fine

woods/trail port, and pro circuit pipes. everyone looks just at hp. dont forget hp is just a factor if rpm on torque. torque is where your power comes from. food for thought. 496 big block. 225hp, can pull 10k at 80mph up the mountain. 300hp 4banger 2.0. can pull 1k at 60 on flat ground. the most powerful on road tractors are 625hp.... at around 2k, so thats 1200-1600 torque, pulling 80,000lbs...

i dont know what you are looking at, but im looking at thumbnail quality pictures that dont show shit.

this is what the arrows are for. you get your free-play in the clutch arm at the adjuster, then you pull the cable in to the arrows.

the choke side carb aso has the choke jet in the bowl, and the other is not drilled, just a blind hole. make sure not to mix them up, or your choke wont pull any fuel.

if you loose power going from 100 down to 92, something is seriously wrong. it should be the other way around. you dont gain power with octane. you build power that requires higher octane to keep from detonating the top end. first thing is to see if there is a spacer plate under the cylinders (this guy sounds like its likely) or if it has relieved domes, which is proper "4mill dome" confuguration. you will need to know this before buying domes. im a bit rusty, but i recall 24cc domes to be fine for "pump gas"

4mill serval and pro circuit pipes. youll get back all that mid range grunt the pokers have, and keep a lot of the top end.

fix that ground!! that being said, yes, you always take a zero reading on your meter and subtract that from your readings. usually, if its fairly high, like half an ohm or more, its a good sign your battery is almost dead in the meter, but some meters just read high with a fresh battery. the cap can still work, even though it reads bad, but usually has a drop out at idle. it still needs to be replaced, as it will keep burning out the break in the cap till it does become a problem for that cylinder.

wtf, over..... this went nowhere fast. waiting for the answer about letting the clutch out. also, does it lunge foreward when you go into gear, but the clutch is pulled in?

same thing for a lot of 90s imports and other caliper integrated park brakes, so keep that in mind if you run into a brake job ans see dowell holes or slots in the piston.

the arrows are ONLY for centering the clutch cable in the freeplay. the actual clutch adjustment is to set the free play in the lever, no matter what clutch you have.

btw, love the yellow. not a big fan of the shade of it, though. probably clashes with the yamaha yellow if you have them close together.

as you have already learned, prep, prep, prep. thats the first step. i wouldnt be super concerned with anything that doesnt come off with aircraft stripper. i used that stuff on cessna/bell aircraft, and thats the only time that its necessary to get it all off, because every ounce of paint counts for weight. other than that, if it doesnt really want to come off, even after roughing it up a bit, its stuck on there good enough as a good base for coating. 120, is a tad rough, unless you are getting ater some rust. if you have bare metal, you should have some metal prep/etch to get it bonded good (which may be included in some primers) and this brings us to the next step. primers. choic of primer needs to match not only the topcoat, but also the substrate, and the method. for instance, if you are going to just spray and spray, like with a completely bare frame, epoxy primer is an excellent choice for primer/seal coat. however, if you need a primer/filler (in other words, you are going to sand/feather, you need a filler/sandable type primer) also pay attention to the flash/topcoat time. some need it coated in color before or after a certain time frame and not in between (temperature/humidity specific) and some only have a certain period before it needs to be cured, prepped and resprayed if you miss that window. some products also get a bad name because nobody does the proper prep (certain rustoleum products, etc) but if done right, they can yield decent performance. also, you want to consider compatibility of the top, and under coatings. acrylic and lacquer enemels, etc. many will absoultely not adhere, or have a reaction when applied in an uncured state (either pre-cured, or recent treatment. this is probably one of the larger reasons why your primed pieces had a better effect. acetone, and grease remover are your friend. so is lacquer thinner, but that is not so great when you dont actually need it for things like cleaning your paint guns, etc. 220-400 are typically your prep grits, unless you need to do some heavy stuff, like cleaning rust pits out, or using body filler, but you shouldnt need that on a frame component. i dont know what your budget is like, but eurothane/epoxy coatings cna be the next best thing, or even surpass powder coat.

piston porting isn't what you think it is, and not really for daily type setups.

what arms are those? might be interested

did you just build or buy it? there might be something wrong with a bearing, but lets start with adjustment. when finished, the cable should be adjusted so the arm on the clutch lines up the arrows. first, screw back in the cable adjustment at the handle bars to little more than mid. then, loosen the jam nut holding the cable to the engine and slide it out of the slot. youll want a tool to move the lever and feel the freeplay, because theres a pretty strong spring that makes it a pain to do by hand. for the life of me, i cant recall off the top of my head, but i believe its less than 30 degrees or 3/8" flreeplay. its possible someone backed it off too much. to adjust that, remove the clutch cover, then loosen the jamnut and adjust the screw in the middle of the clutch. this adjustment tightens up with clutch wear. make sure the clutch isnt flopping around.

its one, or the other. also, what pipes? how is the air filter setup? (stock box with or without lid, pod filters, etc?) knee-jerk reaction wants me to suggest swap out the 200 mains for 310 on the stock carbs and see how it does. if it hesitates without spitter, its lean.

its most likely oil. hit it with a torch. gas will burn off right away. coolant will steam sweet smelling, and oil will burn just a little and smoke.

there's a chance that he used stroker domes, or a relieved head, and not selling those with the cylinders. if you use a spacer, stock port timings only leave enough meat for a drag port correction. decked or not, you always start by assembling and measuring deck height. (how far the edge of the piston sits below or above the head mating surface of the cylinder. measuring in mm is pretty much cheat sheet for builders or hand-me-down measurements. do yourself a favor, and pick up a cool head, but first, go look what is available for used domes. get a head that uses the most popular, if you are going to be changing things up, or if you are unsure how well your dome choice is going to work. if you don't have a micrometer setup, you can drill a hole in a piece of plywood and loosely screw it down to the cylinder and find true tdc by when the other side of the board drops 1mm or whatever on the other end and make a mark on the flywheel at this point going both ways. make a mark in the exact middle of both of those marks and you have true tdc. then you can line up your timing wheel to that mark. measure how many degrees from tdc the exhaust opens, then how many degrees till the transfer ports open. the intake boost port is a different matter altogether.

i like them. added hoses to the power jet nipples and connected a pintle valve for an airscrew, since there is no idle adjustment. took a bit to dial in, but then that was it.

if you upgrade carbs, and pipes, vf4 would help, but if its going to be a while, the boysen reeds have a smoother bottom end, or i don't thing you are going to see much of a difference going 3 to 4. not nearly as big as going stock to 28 or 30mm carbs. unfortunately, the fatties don't quite match flow for the whole range they are meant for on the big bore cylinders, however, all that compression at higher rpms than about where its going to fall off is a bit much for a stock crank. long story short, if you have, say 500 budget, go for the repedal and new carbs, or keep your eyes open for used.