muggzy

Just get an a-arm roller. Or even a frame and make it what you want. It took me some time after I wrecked on a hill climb but it's all good now... Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Hey, can anyone with experience adding an adjustable timing plate tell me of the power gains are across the board, lo end or high end? If it's across the board, is it bigger on the low end? Thanks in advance Mods; Ported (unknown details) Pwk-28 carbs Trinity stage 4 pipes Open airbox w/K&N filter 20cc domes on Pro Design Coolhead Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

If you're gonna change the fuel mix, plan on rejetting. It *will* affect the jetting. Try to find out from the previous owner what he was mixing. Then check your jetting anyway. If you already have a vehicle that runs 32:1, that's your best choice. Keep your life simple. I've never heard any real good arguments for going to 40:1. Also if your airtemp goes below freezing in the winter, use semi synth oil so it doesn't separate out in cold weather. I use Maxima Super M, but any modern 2 stroke blend will likely be fine. Some good videos on YT for rebuilding your water pump. Good luck! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Reactive Suspension (610) 493-0093 959 Memorial Hwy Oley, PA 19547 US The guy will talk to you about your needs and give you a perfect tune for your riding style/needs. I had him do my front Works triple rates and stock rear. He revalved and resprung them for my weight and extended geometry and they've been perfect. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

That's the point. Bigger isn't always better [emoji16] Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Saw the title of this thread and couldn't resist... https://giphy.com/gifs/9tYwiwdFkvEoE/html5 Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

"... but if you want huge bottom end and tq buy SLP," What is SLP? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

That's an interesting idea. If I still had the carbs, I'd pursue it. In spite of the rediculous number of posts I put on Bhq and other forums, this is the first I heard of that theory. It's certainly worth checking out. I can say for certain, that it wasn't the seal on the caps,but I never checked the slide Glide or plug on the carbs. Despite the possibility that you're right, there aren't any plugs on the Keihins to leak. So if the problem was leaky plugs, problem solved anyway with a better airflow on the intake in the exchange. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Not true. I f'd around with oem Mikuni 26s for years and could never get the jetting right, had problems with engine run-away whenever I splashed through a puddle, poor low end power and throttle response and a distinct lag when hitting the throttle hard. Put Keihin Pwk-28 carbs in and it jetted easily, ran like like a new machine with consistent throttle response across the entire throttle range and no more lag waiting for the power band to hit.

Thanks for this. It turns out that mine was a loose spade connector on the coil primary :-) Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I'm watching this thread carefully as my banshee just quit on me while out on a trail. Haven't started ohming anything out yet, but what are you using to "see" the pulse? Just a volt meter and watching for some change on the readout before it goes back to zero? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Great advice here. Best in this thread. Definitely get the "Clymer's Manual for the Banshee" best investment you'll ever make. Your hard-starting issues definitely sound like your jetting is wrong. Clean the carbs thoroughly and change your jets to the sizes Jereme6655 suggested. Also like J6655 suggested, never make more than one change at a time or you won't know what worked or didn't. However, a bad TORS switch can cause the engine not to run when you release the throttle. That's one main reason everyone deletes them ;-) Since you got the TORS delete kit, go ahead and carefully install that and be sure the adjustment screw is tapped clean and that the face on the side of the carbs the you tapped from is flat and *filed* down far enough to allow you to adjust the slide height from zero to about 3/16 in. open when you view it from the intake side. Set that opening on both carbs to about half way for a starting point. All of what I just said, you can do on the bench. Also, when putting the slides in, there's a white dot on each slide. These should each face the outside (right or left) of the carb so they can be seen in the glass "window" on each carb side when the the throttle is wide open iirc. The manual will show you what to expect with lots of (mostly) good pics before you dive in - like getting the slides off the throttle cables. But it won't tell you about aftermarket stuff like the TORS delete screw adjustment that I just described. Get the Clymer's manual and above all, be patient. I was exactly where you are years ago and wouldn't trade my Banshee for any other machine out there. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Bump. Anyone with a +2 MX Swingarm or am I going to have to buy new? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Thanks, but I ride trails. It's gotta be a +2 Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I started looking through site sponsors and couldn't find "JL" can you give me contact info? If you're happy with the one you have, this may be just the ticket for me. Thanks!~