richybanshee

22" kenda klaw Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

I have used fmf gnarly, pro circuit and T5 all perform better than stock... a friend had FMF fatty they are similar to t5. I currently use cpi but the other pipes have more bottom wnd power on stock cylinders. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Keep FMF pipes and start riding. Once you feel the need for more power just send the cylinders for mild port work. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention that I switched the reed cages. The VForce4 installation instruction did not say or indicate that one reed cage hat to be set in a specific side. I did made sure the factory writing (letters) were at the top. Like I said before, for some reason the cage that was initially at the right side had one of the petals that is slightly opened. But that was not the problem as the bike is working now with the cage in the right side without any side effects.

The problem has been fixed. I did not do a leak down test as I did not have all the materials to build a custom leak down tester at the time. The problem was either an air leak through the gaskets between the reed cage and the cylinder or something wrong with the right carburetor. What I did: in my desperation took the cool head off and inspected everything, then torque everything back to 20 feet-pound used carburetor cleaner on both carbs, took jets out for cleanup installed 30 pilot jet created new gaskets using gasket paper I bought at Pep boys installed double gaskets for each reed cage at the join points (2 between reed cage and cylinder) and (2 between carburetor boot and reed cage) I went to a local area to ride the bike and it is not "running away". Throttle response is greatly improved and revs like it is supposed to. My next project will be to build the custom leak tester for future utilization. Thanks for your suggestions.

I did notice that, on idle, if I pull the choke the bike revs higher

Ok. I'll try an build a leak down tester. I took the reeds out again and noticed the right cage has the middle, upper right petal that is not closing completely. I can see light through that one. I'll buy new gaskets as well and see if I can get the 30 pilot.

Ok. I'll try to find the whatever is causing the lean condition. Took the cool head out to see if there was any kind of damage and there is none.

Back pressure on silencers:

I have a video of the problem on my U tube page. I'm sure the throttle cable is not sticking. Even though the carb slides are not shown I KNow they are not stinking because the same situation happened when I tried synczing the carbs and the slides were all the way down. In the video you can see the even when I turn the switch to the off position the bike stays revved consuming whatever full is left. I was able to kill it by putting the bike in gear and slowing releasing the clutch. Please advise.

I'm still having issues with the bike revving up. The rubber choke between the carbs is correctly installed. I have checked the compression of the cylinders an it is at 145 psi each. Took right pipe out... does not seemed to be plugged, damaged... nothing. I have sprayed carburator cleaner around the gaskets in the reed cages, the carbs, while the bike was idleing and found no air leak. As far as I know if there was some kind of air leak around those areas the bike would have revved higher... did not happened. I did notice the right side is working a little better, had to turn air screw all the way in (may have to get 30 pilot). Bottom end seems to be improved and it wheelies when I throttle the bike. I have switch coils and still the same issue. I will keep trouble shooting it.

First of all hope every one had a good "Thanksgiving day". The problem: The right cylinder seems to not be working properly. You can hear the left pipe but no the right pipe. If you put your hand like a feet from the silencers you can feel the back pressure on the left but on the right is almost no pressure and cold. When I rev the bike, half way it just stays revved up. Mods I have done recently: Like a month ago I removed TORS system (everything) and installed Motion Pro replacement system with new throttle cable. I initially synchronized the carbs by eye. Yesterday I installed new VForce4 reed cages. Lubbed the throttle and clutch cables. A little story: Riding the bike after the TORS where removed seem to be ok. At some ATV event a guy told me my bike may have carbs out of sync because he heard the left pipe but the right pipe did not sound the same. He showed me the problem by revving the bike a little and the back pressure on the left was good but the right came to life after more the 1/4 throttle .I rode the event and the bike performed ok but not good and I had on the back of my mind what the guy told me about the carbs. SO I called FAST and bought the carb sync tool and VForce4. After installing the VForce4 I started to sync the carbs but the bike just stayed revved and I had to shut everything down. I checked the carbs, the reed cages, the throttle cable but everything seems to be ok. I thought it was jetting related so I put the needle jet in the 4th position. I fired up the bike again but the right pipe is working colder and the bike stayed revved up. Bike Mods: FAST (NOSS) Cool Head with 20cc dome... last time I checked compression was 150 psi Timing plate +4 CPI small bore inframe drag pipes TORS Removed stock 26mm mikuni carbs jetting (Pilot: 27.5; air screw: half turn out; needle jet: 4th notch; main: 300) I will take the right pipe out, check compression and maybe take the cool head out to see the right cylinder. Any ideas?

The question is: Which exhaust yields the best hp on stock engine? answer: TR6 Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

pro circuit will give you good power and better low end power Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk