SLORYDER

People can say what they want about Lesnar. You've got to respect the man for going from a WWE wrestler and having the balls to go toe to toe with the best fighters on the planet. I didn't have a very good seat for the fight, but it looked like Carwin landed at least 3 or 4 shots that would've KO'ed most people. Maybe more. You could tell Lesnar didn't want any of carwin's standup, and i don't blame him. I think Carwins record proves what kind of hands he has. Cain seems like a good wrestler from the limited fights i've seen, but it also appears to be his strong point which will be instantly nullified the second he tries to lock up with Lesnar. Then it will probably be Dos Santos, who has really good hands, not as good as carwins IMO. Not sure about his Jiu-Jitsu, I'm sure he would put up a better fight on the ground than Carwin though. Carwin is a freaking beast. I don't see how ANYONE else could beat him in a standup fight. Let's do Fedor-Lesnar already

Sorry I can't edit my last post it was the owner of CPI (custom pipes) that gave me the porting specs for the blaster, not Calvin Pollet

There have been many advancements in ring materials since jennings book. IF you radius and bevel your port right your rings well last. I spoke to the owner of cp industries awhile back about spcs on his blaster pipe; he says his blaster runs a 75% exhaust port and his rings last 30 hours or so before they need changing. Well I think anyone with sense enough to tackle a job like this on their own would have the presence of mind to explain to the buyer the specs of the engine. I agree that the way I described is not 100% efficient. Some people may rather 15 free hp over 25hp at a cost of $350 And I guarantee that the ultra high performance drag engines rings do not last 20 hours. I agree that there is a considerable amount of power to be had from grinding on the port roofs and vertical walls; this is something for someone with advanced skills.

Port it. No better mod for the money. I have experience with RB racing. His prices are the best that I've seen and his porting is top notch.

Simple facts 1. If you make the exhaust port bigger it will make more power. The bigger the more power bottom line. 2. If you are moving gasses out of the engine at a higher rate you need to be letting it in at a higher rate. The transfers are the first bottleneck in the banshee engine. You need to increase the size of the windows and the runners. The runners can be done with a long bit and you have to be sure not to touch the roofs and blend in the cuts. The windows are tricky. This is why people send theirs to a builder. You can easily screw up the jugs if you cut the sides or roofs of the ports. Buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut the floors are a different story. Raising the cylinder and lowering the floors is foolproof. 3. Your next bottleneck is the intake. Open up the intake windows, port the reed cages and add boysen reeds. 4. Next handicap is the compression. Shave .020" or .060" if you ran a thicker base gasket. Just doing these things will get you a solid 15hp on a piped engine. If you open your exhaust port more you can prolly get 20hp, but will have to change your rings every 30-50 hours. If you wanted to do a budget drag engine w/ drag pipes, you could run a .080" base gasket on top of the stock one or a .100" if you can find it or any combination. You would then lower your ports 2mm, raise your exhaust port to 34bd and widen it out to 72-75% of bore width using a 1/2" radius on the corners and a 2mm crown on the top. Put a generous chamfer around the whole port, especially at the top and bottom. open your transfer runners, raise your intake to 70mm from deck and lower it by 2-4mm. Drill boysen ports, widen your boost port, but leave at least 1.5mm clearance from the ring ends. Narrow the intake bridge to 5mm. Port your reed cages, add boysen reeds. Deck your cylinders. You will need to determine what fuel you wnat to run and determine how much to mill for the right uccr. I can tell you that a safe amount to mill at this stage using the .080" gasket plus the stock .020" gasket is .110" for race fuel, you can probably get away with 50/50 race fuel/ premium unleaded. Make sure you check the squish before the milling; there should be .150" or more of squish. If it is less than that say by .005", you should only mill .105" ect. You want at least .035" squish when you are done. Always check for signs of detonation when done, just to be safe; however I believe if you follow these directions you should definately be in the clear if you run race fuel. Prolly get away with 50/50. Mod your timing plate to +4 These recommmendations are somewhat conservative and your rings should last 20 or more hours at this stage. I'd say with cpi pipes and stock carbs you should be at 62-65hp. 34mm carbs closer to 70 THAT is the best bang for your buck.

Can you measure, in millimeters the distance from the deck to the tops of the exhaust port and the transfer ports?

IF You have a dremel and you were on a budget: You could buy a .060" base gasket and run it in place of your stocker. You lower your port floors, widen your exhaust and raise it, at the same time cleaning up whatever you can access with your straight bits. Bring your exhaust up to give you about 33-34bd. This would be roughly equivalent to a dune port. Shave your head a total of .065". Port reed cages and run boysen reeds Builder-cool head dune port vforce reeds shipping 60hp and about $800 My way-55hp and $120.

Anyone want to post their experience as far as stock transfer timing?

Yeah the long rod mellows out the powerband, gives you more bottom end.

First you need to print out a degree wheel and degree your cylinders. You will be raising your exhaust port and widening it, to what extent depends on your riding style. You will also need to lower your ports to be even with the timing edge of your piston at bdc. Raising and widening your intake ports will also be needed to take full advantage of the port work, as well as opening up the transfer runers, being careful not to touch the roofs, then blend in your cuts. You have to try to understand how the air flows through there, where the restrictions are and alleviate them, realizing if everything is not smooth you are cutting for nothing. You should not have to worry about raising the transfers unless you are going for a full drag build.

IMO pipes would be a better investment. If you are concerned about midI bet you would be thrilled selling your t-5's and getting the cpi small bore inframe. If you go cub you will be choking it down with those pipes anyway I'd rather have a fast stock cyl than a slow cub My.02

Seems like if you can get the graydon it is well worth the money. Essentially like having dual 35's with bettter bottom end than stock. Trinity design seems to suck.

I highly recommend you subscribe here for assistance in your build http://www.macdizzy.com/forums/index.php I am gonna port my blaster jug (stock pipe). I thought about porting my go kart but it is too fast already lol. I might just bump the compression to get some more grunt.

Maybe you're so persistent on defending the builders is the fact that you already shelled out the money for yours. I'll admit, most people would rather send their cyls off to get ported because of the ease and peace of mind of it all. And yes, I've read jennings book and bells book several times each. You speak of these discharge angles as something that must be altered to keep the charge in the cylinder... I can assure you that the stock angles are sufficient, UNLESS you widen the exhaust or main transfers too much toward each other. This is why many builders go wide w/ the exhaust port above the main transfers (smiley face port). Other than that, you are changing the roof angles to a more flat angle to allow for more port area. I'm sure some of the seasoned builders have their little secrets of changing an angle here and there to get a few more hp, but this takes serious time. It's that last 10-20% that makes the builders experience worthwhile. On a 4 mill build, (other than full drag)80% of your gains will be in the exhaust port. The rest will be intakes transfer runners and maybe a little on the port roof, as well as widening. On a stock stroke build, you have to work the transfers more, UNLESS you know a shortcut, aka raise the cylinder. I wouldn't suggest going more that a .060" base gasket, because you won't be able to get your squish anywhere near optimum. If you are doing a stock stroke and you want to go ore radical then that, then you might want to call a builder unless you are comfortable cutting your pistons.

Here is what your power curve should look like with the fattys http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130851

Who said anything about a topend. Are you that brainwashed into thinking you need a new top end every time you remove the cylinder? Try 300 for the teardown, 100 for shipping, 250 for porting That's more than 4-500 You are really good at this drone thing. I can tell you that 120/ 188 will be good for an all around engine for a piped (non drag) engine. Wow, that was so much math. I can tell you that a heavier rider will require less blowdown. I can tell you that you can get away with more blowdown, with a heavier rider if you have more compression. And guess what, I didn't have to break out my scientiffic calculator either. I can assure that you do NOT have to change the transfer angles to get more power. You can make a lot more power without changing one angle. How about this, when I get back to Louisiana, I'll slap the motor I ported on the dyno and see what kind of numbers I get. These numbers will be without touching the transfers roofs other than raising them 1mm for some correction work.

I'm trying to think how to put this.... Random thoughts Would it really hurt your business that bad if people knew how to port?.......... I really don't know why I put forth this much effort. I like to be helpful I guess. It seems liek every time I try to discuss porting here i am struck with stiff opposition. I am a paid member on other sites, and there is NO withholding of information there. I have learned so much there. The site owner is most helpful and will answer ANY question to his 10+ years of knowledge. He is a builder. He builds mostly TRX engines, and has a TRX section on his forum where he answers just about every porting question asked. Freely gives out port timings ect. I mean, ,,,,,,,If I was a builder, I would want to do everything I could to make more money. I guess I wouuld want this kind of information suppressed. I would, so i don't blame you. This is a relly really helpful site, it is. And I believe it is set up to maximizer builders profits at the same time. No sponsers, no site huh. Are there topics in the restricteed forum where porting info is shared openly? Maybe if so there would be more paid members and revenue could go up that way? Maybe I am a douchebag for pissing in you guys cheerios. Sometimes I think it's a good idea to not discuss these things on the forum, I guess for you guys sake. But at other times I believe that this forum would be a better place and would grow if everyone shared their little porting tricks and we all had super fast banshees with the added satisfaction of doing it ourselves. But I guess that would not be best for you guys huh. So I really don't know what the right thing is to do. I think maybe in the premium members forum there should be a thread dedicated to porting tricks, but you'd have too pay to acccess it. That would be good for the members, and the site, but what about the sponsers.....? I guess maybe you guy's business would suffer marginally. But it'd be 100% better for the people who wnt to take the initiative to pay the money and help themselves. If I knew that was going on I would surely keep it hush hush on the non paying side. I'm not really sure what would be best though, as far as the big picture. I guess the way it is is satisfactory. I just wish there was a place where we could get really in depth and learn more about the banshee engine. I guess I just love to learn, and get satisfaction out of helping others. Maybe I shouldn't make threads like this and spill the beans. I dunno.

Dude I'm not telling people to take my advice as the final word. Just giving an idea as to how much work needs to be done to get their engine running good. I would rather not waste 2 grand to get 80 hp, when i can get 70 for $500. It's just me. And rest assured I will check my numbers with a wheel before I cut. I just think it's neat to know that there isn't a whole lot of work involved in porting if you know shortcuts. I don't thin ANY advice I've given so far has the potential to do ANY damage to ANYone's engine or person. I'm starting to think this is a site for the sponsers, not the members. Kind of like the movie, from dusk till dawn lol. Dazzle everyone with trickery then go for the throat lol. Bottom line is put a degree wheel on then cut. However most people are not aware of how little they really need to cut. Buddy

That is the beauty of using spacer plates/ stroker cranks. YOU DON'T HAVE TO TOUCH THE TRANSFER ROOFS. You drop them in, and your timing is where you need it. Then, you can get a spherical bit and lower the port floor to get your time/ area values. Yes? And I don't advocate using base spacers. 4 mill crank, lower the ports 2mm, widen the exhaust 3mm, raise it 3mm for a good all around engine 60-65hp. Or 4 mill crank, .060" base gasket, stock head gasket (squish permitting). Lower ports 3mm, widen exhaust 4mm, raise 4mm for a drag port.

I'm not telling any secrets, nor am I asking for any

It seems like most people are getting from 116-120 for the transfrer port duration. The numbers will ary slightly from engine to engine, but I believe these will get you in the ballpark.

If you measure the distance from the bottom of the main transfer port to the top on a STOCK set of cylinders I can tell you for sure. I got these numbers from a reputable source but cannot say I measured it myself.

You're the jackass who seldom has anything positive to say in any of my topics. I apologize if Brandon took it as an attack; I have nothing against him. I do have something against a group of people, who instead of trying to share information they Act like porting an engine is rocket science and discourage everyone from trying it themselves. It's like a big frickin tourist trap where everyone is funneled to the builders and nds up spending thousands of dollars to get 80 hp when in fact they could have got 70 for a fourth the cost. People fail to mention that and I am just here to share information with other do it yourselfers. So if you know something and just say yeah man those numbers are off it ticks me off because if someone was in need of information I would try to help them to the best of my ability. I don't expect builders to give away their secrets but c'mon, is this really a secret?

To get my port height, I use 54 mm stroke/ 110 rod and 183.5 dur to calculate the port height For the transfers I use 118 to get the port height. Then I switch over to 58mm stroke, 115 rod, and go up 2mm on my port height because the piston falls an additional 2mm below the port, and go from there.

Not sure what the normal gasket is. I believe it is around .015-.025". .080" is 2mm. So what you get from the .080" of extra stroke and the .060" of extra gasket (assuming .020" is like milling the head .020". And yes, timings are with the long rod.