SLORYDER

Yeah I think they are 34s' actually Thanks

Yeah I have the "two stroke tuners handbook" and it sparked my interests but I work 10/7 and hardly have time to read much. Thanks for the info

I will be running PT hi revs'. My riding style is pretty much on or off. Cruising or wide open blasts on the beach/ drag racing. I don't want a severe on/ off powerband though. Like 3/4 full drag. What would be a good timing advance? I'm at sea level if that makes any difference. And about the timing numbers....How would one go about measuring that 188*? Zero the wheel at the bottom of the exhaust port and rotate to the top of it? And is this done with the base gaskets in place?

Bump

Now, let me start off by saying that I fully understand the risks involved in doing your own porting. I know that you can ruin a good set of cylinders by taking off a half millimeter of material in the wrong place. I also realize that it takes alot of expensive tools to do a worthwhile job. I plan on buying the necessary tools ($450 something bucks) and trying to do some grinding myself. And my questions are basically refering to a top end/ not quite full drag setup that I don't have to replace my ringson every couple months. 1.Exhaust port; i realize that you have to be careful on how wide you go on your exhaust, what is a good safe percentage of bore? 70%? 2. Intake ports; I realize you can gain power by widening the intake port, and I know you can easily snap off the intake brige and destroy your entire motor by opening it up too much, but what effect does intake port timing have on the powerband? Will raising the intake ports give you an increase in top end? Or is it best to widen them a little but generally leave them alone? 3. Transfers; Do you get any gains by opening the tunnels or do the gains come mostly from raising them? And I'm pretty sure the angles need to stay the same, right? 4. Boost port; are there any good gains to be had by widening the boost ports or widening them? 5. Also , I know there are timing durations like 155/ 185 (not accurate), but what do they mean. I plan on getting a degree wheel and all; are those numbers reffering to degrees of crank rotation from BDC that it takes for the ports to close, or degrees before TDC? I am confused. And if someone can give (pm) me a good number to start with I'd appreciate it. I know this is a lot of crap, but if you can answer just one that would be helpful. Thanks.

Bump

I have a stock stroke engine, stock pistons and a mild top end port job, pt hi's and 33pj carbs no crossover manifolds. Sea level. What's a good starting number on my mains/ needle Oh and what's a good timing advance and could I up it by shaving .020" off my head. Thanks in advance

I can attest for this engine. He bought it off me the nikasil and pistons have about 1 hr total on them mostly ideling. VERY strong running motor

Well I knew the basics like widen the exhausta certain amount, raise it some, as well as opening the intakes and boost port. I just didn't have a 90 degree attachment to raise the transfers. Lets say it's a good bang fer your buck. Not a good idea to try if you dont know what you're doing though.

Thank you!!!! I was in a bind lol

I have some stock cylinders with a top end port job, pt hi rev pipes, and 33mm pjs'. I am currently using stock reeds; how much of a difference will it make to change to boysens with my setup? And is it worth it to fo V force 3 with my mods? Thanks

Well I decided to try my hand at some porting; I widened my exhaust about 2mm also raised it a couple, opened my intakes up and brought my transfers up a couple mm as well. I then sent them to HJR and he dialed in the timing for me... He didn't tell me much other than they would pull much harder than stock...

Thanks

bumpers

Hey I need that shaft that goes through the tranny shaft (the one that the clutch arm pushes against the pressure plate to release the clutch) and also the ball that goes in there with it. I also need the circlip that retains the kick starter idler gear. Also a full set of crank-case nuts and bolts Thanks

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Edit the carbs are PJ's

Anybody going?

Well in about 3 weeks I will be putting my shee up for sale to get money for a jet ski. -'88 j-arm frame (Around 25 lbs lighter than a-arm frame) -Works dual rate front shocks -Marvin shaw competition rear -+8 Swingarm -11 Paddle tripple buff haulers -Dune ported cylinders on stock bore -Trued/ welded stock crank -33mm Keihin PWK carbs/ billet intakes/ K&N pods -Paul Turner HI-REV pipes -Modded stock timing plate -Billet clutch basket -Modded shift star All bearings are solid, race cut plastics are in good shape. One of the paddles has been repaired but works perfectly. Chrome on pipes is not perfect but they work perfectly. Like I said it will be fresh and ready to go around the 20th of July. I will try to upload some pics later $2500 firm

It's "raped date" :geek: Good luck raping an ape lol

Let me know Would like some new boysen reeds if you got them

yeah by the time I read your post I had already done the do I'll try them out and see how they perform If they suck too bad I'll send em off Thanks for the concern tho

You will pitch sand farther, and if there is a rock in the sand, it stands a greater chance of hitting someone's girlfriend due to its increased velocity and subsequent range. The downside is the potential beatdown you may incur.