SLORYDER

It depends on the length of your swingarm... 21 to 22 inch tire on an 8 inch rim would be a good choice . An 8 paddle extreme will be good enough to climb most any hill but if you want to be compeditive as far as drag racing you will want at least a 9 paddle extreme on the dune bike and an 11 paddle on the cub. That is if your swingarms are +6 or better if not I'd stick to 9 paddle max on either. Or if you have like as +12 on the cub go with at least 12 paddle extreme for dragging.

So a drag ported stocker is not?

Just curious I know you can get a drag port close to the hp of a stock cub but how do the powerbands compare? Seems like the stock cub would have a broader range but I really have no clue Thanks

That is funny I actualy chukled a little bit. Not quite a full on LOL but still.

Hey bro it's been about a year since you owed me that $180 surely you have saved the money to pay me back with your cheetah build and all huh?

Yeah I'm pretty sure they bevel the dog ears to give you a larger engagement window.

I know you can get the cpi poor man pipes raw for 390 Can you get the raw shearer pipes for around that much?

Yeah I was thinking about a duneable because I will be mostly drag racing, but if this mod is similar to a duneable except you have to clutch then i think I may do it. I just don't want to be missing shifts..

I'm sure with the mods listed I could easily run 100 mph on asphault I was just giving you a rough estimate of my gearing. Seems like a +8 would be short for dragging I could be wrong though....

Inframe pipes. Pump gas I have a +8 and some 11 paddle tripple buffs right now but I run tubes in 'em and don't know if I can get the pressure low enough top bite outa the hole..

Also not sure the gearing but the guy says it is geared to run right at 100mph in 6th and I believe the front sprocket is a 15 or a 16

Ok it's gonna be on a fully drag ported 350 w/ 34mm carbs/ cpi pipes j arm frame with 160 lb rider. Also gonna be that heavy sand with the little bitty pebbles in it (LA Dunes) Thanks

How well does it pull with them paddles on backwards lol Free bump 4 you

You could save up about 50 more bucks and get a mild port job done. This will be the most satisfying option IMO

How about exhaust port shape? I've heard that it plays a role in power delivery... In my mind a port with a flat roof would cause a sharp pressure spike in the expansion chamber, and might make the powerband stronger but more peaky...Is that about right/ And also the intake port; I've noticed some builders make the top of the intake port not flat and angle upwards toward the divider...Would that produce a similar effect by smoothing out the power and maybe giving you a better rpm range?

Pics

Right... Basically what i was trying to get across is you can double horsepower without increasing torque

Would you recommend I try opening the secondary a couple degrees sooner for later? I am going for a good top end pull and would like to keep some range Thanks

198 with what, a 135 exhaust? Has anyone had success using a base plate to make increasing the transfer duration easier?

Find a good close up picture of an aftermarket plate. If you study it you should be able to figure it out.

Now that I think about it that would kinda jack up your squish clearance if it were do-able, but it would probably more than compensate with the increased top end if you had the right pipes and exhaust durations...

Has anyone filed their piston crown to increase trans. or exh. duration and if so how much metal can you safely remove. Seems like a mm or so could be had but then again I'm a complete noob when it comes to pistons... I'm thinking more along the lines of the trasfer duration right now....

Would o be ok bringing my exhaust up to about 192-194 with my transfers like they are or does that seem like a little much?