SLORYDER

Golden

lollers

that's what i thought

No man I don't believe they even go much below the boost port

Ok I never said it was instant drag motor. Buuut $100 for a cheap dremel, 90 degree tool, and a couple bits. $25 for a spacer and gasket. $60 for the machine work That's under $200 bucks, you have much more agressive timing which, to me would be a serious bump in hp? Can you please state exactly what will not work with this theory..

My theory is that not everyone has the steady hand and experience to change port roof geometry. On the other hane lowering the ports seems do-able for someone with limited skills as the outside radius work would be much more sensitiveto errors than the inside. To me, if you were to lower the ports symetrically it would be really difficult to actually disrupt the gas dlow much if at all. And even someone with limited mechanical knowledge can remove and re-install the head studs. It might take a while, but to me almost anyone with a dremel and a 90 degree attachment could do this with a little patience. Just my theory.

Target is a drag engine, stock stroke with pipes like shears of cpi's. I don't feel comfortable grinding on the trnnsfer roofs, and the spacer is the best way for me to increase the port timing. I shoulld be able to get the deck milled, along with the spacer for relatively cheap, then it would just be a matter of lowering my ports, which IMO would be much easier to do a decent job on than raising them...

When my cousins banchee was stock with just a fmf pipe I clocked him at 77 on my uncles radar gun. With 15/41 jetting Then we put the gearing at 17/41 and lost 8 mph... So then he bored it .040 over to really get the power up and he pulled that 17/41 no problem... We clocked him at 98 mph so pretty much if you're stock to about .030 over you can't get it up past about 84 or 86 but .040 over is my sweet spot at least with 17/41. My friend got his banchee "hot dune" ported and polished but he is only at like .010 over so ita only loike a 360 my cousins at 390 cc so I doubt my friend stqands a chance we'll see tho lol

So let's say I get my porting to 198/ 130 and set up my intakes accordingly... Theoredically, assuming I get the right pipes for the rpm of my durations, I will be getting pretty much peak hp out of my engine; limited by transfer angles and rate of flow, right? Angles I won't even attempt to correct...But what about opening up the transfers... How much are these normally hogged out for a full drag port? What is there....10 or more hp to be gained by hogging these out AFTER getting your durations right...Or would it be worth it just to get your durations correctly matched to your pipes (cpi or shearer of course)?

I don't recall getting that program... Would be nice tho And if you raise the barrel, I know you have to trim the top of the barrel and lower the transfers, exhaust, and intake...Isn't there much less reprecussion if you don't dress the inside radius of the transfers(lowering the port to increase duration)perfectly? Seems like there would be way less of a chance of altering the flow dramatically by not doing it perfectly....

Yeah if your port timing is stock what will the 2mm base plate put yout timing at? Also I have some mild porting done to mine like 126/ 189. Wondering what that would put me at...

How about replacing the shocks with shaws? How much weight does that save you?

I would do a search but for some reason I can't access it on my browser. What are some ways to cut weight on the bansh? I have an '89 J-arm frame so i thing the weight is around 401 lbs wet... So I dumped the bumper, grab bar, rear fender, skid plates, and switched my rear shock to a shaw... That should be good for about 20lbs or so it would seem? I know some guys say they're at 285 wet please share some info!

Alot of good info in this thread

Jim at Passion Racing is a really good guy. Every time I talk to him on the phone he is more than willing to spend 30 to 40 minutes of his time to ask you personal questions like your weight, riding style, geographical location, type of dirt/sand you ride in, ect. He really does have a passion for what he does and you can tell by talking to him. Oh yeah he might have a little bit of experience lol. After talking to several builders I can honestly vouch that he seems to be the most honest, straight forward guy of the ones previously mentioned, and his prices seem to be the best as well. Just my humble opinion

^^^This will give you close to a 1,500% gain over getting a boost bottle (considering the boost bottle gets you .5hp which is still generous)

Most cost effective way of getting a big bump in horsepower (this requires you to have some basic mechanical skills) 1. Remove your cylinders and cut (raise) the roof of your exhaust port exactly 2 millimeters. Do this on each cylinder and make sure you take the same off each one. Do this by keeping the shape of the exhaust port as close to stock as you can. This will require widening the port a bit-no more than 1mm from each side. Blend the widened exhaust window and raised roof into the port leaving a smooth transition from window to exhaust port flange. Chamfer the port edges. Make sure you clean all the metal shavings away and wash in soap and water. 2. Get a set of K&N pods and a jet kit and dial in your jetting 3. Shave your stock head (the amount depends on your elevation you can go at least .025" and be on premium fuel. Total bucks you would spend less than $200 and you would be extremely pleased with the results.

I loved the powerband on my pro circuit pipes. If you drag race often and don't spend much time on trails I would recommend cpi or shearer

4mill d5rag port on pump gas, CPI pipes and 34mm PJ's, +8 swingarm, 160lb rider at sea level.

How do you like thaat 12 port setup? I thought about it but am leaning towards drag port... I will be dragging 75% of the time but I heard it makes some really good power as well

Sweet thanks. One of the builders on here told me he wouldn't do my 4mill unless I bought a cool head. I think he was just trying to sell a head. Thanks again

Has anyone run a drag ported 4 mill stock cylinder with the stock head? Would like to go with the sleeper look by getting the head worked for the 4 mill but i don't want to run into any reliability problems. Thanks

LOL it's a blaster 240 MX kit done by hollywood productions. And I swear that was a fun blaster to ride. +4 durablue axle with 2" spacers in the front...ITP 18" MX tires With the stock swinger, mx tires and waay off on the jetting I was neck and neck with a piped tuned 250r 3 wheeler. Those intakes are huge though lol