SLORYDER

I used to take people like him seriously. Personally whatever. The second you do that you lose. And there's nothing you can do about it until you learn to separate internet from reality. Do I think he should be banned? No. That would just open the door for all the titty babies to come out of the closet and start whining. Would I like to see him get his teeth kicked in? HELL yeah. Then he might learn something.

From what I've seen the dynaport doesnt have much more lowend than the stock pipe. Timing will help but the biggest thing will be compression. When you speak of matching the transfers, you speak of maching the aluminum with the sleeve windows, correct?

Prolly best just to delete this topic Cut your losses We still love you

Need wiring harness, cdi, voltage regulator. Have plug type stator already.

Did ji post this in the for sale section? If so I don't agree with its deletion.

Anyone have a calculator to show the timings withe the 4 mill and using different rods?

More like 20% w/ a few drama queens sprinkled in

Well said. I just believe that 90%of potential cool head buyers are under the assumption that they willl get a big performance increase with extra cooling that will keep their engine running forever, when the reality is that simply shaving the stock head will yield similar performance as the coolhead. The additional cooling is bs. 2 stock shaved heads- 50 bux for the first, 80 for the second shipping included. 150ish total 2 cool head setups- 300ish total

True buuut: I've heard of some high hp alky biulds using the stock head and no leaks. And for the price of new domes orings and shipping you can almost buy another stock head and have it remachined to your build. You'd still be way ahead money wise. Brandon (blowit) with Mull Engineering seems to have a really good head design and I believe it's well under $100. "Cool head"...Means it LOOKS cool, bout it imo

You will get at least 2.6 zillion opinions about this. Mine: Most any pipe will give you a performance boost in the upper revs, and take away from the bottom end as compared to the stock pipe. I say if you can get them for real cheap, go for it, if not, wait for a pair of pro circuit or FMF gnarly pipes. For YOUR situation, though, the first thing I would recommend is to bump up your compression. This will give you some much needed grunt on the bottom end. Something else you should do is when you pull your head offf, go ahead and pull your cylinders off and do a "clean up" port job, basically smoothing out the flow. While at this you can match up the liner to the exhaust port (aluminum part). This, in conjunction with the head mod will give you a very noticeable boost in performance and grunt for climbing those hills. You might be happy with this for now and save some money. That said, I don't know much about the ct pipe. However IMO, it is worth waiting for a set of pro circuits, which you really can't go wrong with unless you have a dedicated drag bike. CT products are typically well above par, though...

Well, as described in my "trinity blows" topic, I have been screwed and need 1 pod filter for a 26mm carb today; has anyone noticed K&N type slip on filters at an auto parts store or anything? I'm in Denver if anyone local wnts to get rid of one or a pair..

I believe camatv summed it up about right...

OK man. Generally speaking, what is a good cutoff, kicking compression wiseto start using 50/50. And how much do you recommend shaving the stock head/

Yeah and does shaving .040" off the stock head normally cause you to have to run it? thanks

If you drag with those v-blade paddles on your banshee maybe you could learn a thing or two about sand tires

Pros: Increased power Interchangeability Looks cool if you're into that kind of thing Better sealing over a stock head in extreme high hp applications (doesn't seem to be a problem w/ most engines) Cons: Power increase is minute over a stock shaved head Costs 3-5x more than a stock shaved head Ruins the sleeper look (a con to me at least)

Since I read all 7 pages I feel obliged to post something. Letting someone called "bansheeboyz" grind on your jugs is about as dumb as letting your kids have a sleep over at michael jackson's house

It depends on the type of riding you do. Pipes/ filter compression should be your first 2 mods. Cheapest way to more compression is shaving your stock head by .03-.04. A cool head will get ya a small percentage more hp and more tuning options down the road but will be around 4x the cost. If you have a lightning I assume you like to drag race and if so i'd suggest a set of cpi, shearer or the new r-2 pipes. Cpis are big and will burn your legs constantly if you ride hard w/ shorts. Shearers make big hp but have zero bottom end and crappy chrome. If I were you and didn't ride a lot of tight trails, and planned on dragging, i'd go for the new r-2 pipes. They are an updated model of a proven big hp pipe and have good reviews so far. When you get serious (which you will) a port job will be your next priority.

I bet you can get 15 or more horsepower by doing a cleanup port widening the exhaust out to about 72% of bore raising it about 1mm reeds ported reed cage and shaving the stock head. Prolly 10 from just the porting. That would be sweet. Smoking a piped banshee! He would be like what the.....

I think it's the powervalves that are like 250 apiece. Plus the "special head" Hech I think trinity charges 330 for the pistons. Thake all that away and you are near cub territory

Race 'em on the road. Refuse to race anywhere else or you will get spanked. Get her ported and make sure your tires aer good and low pressure and you should spank 'em.

Race 'em on the road. Refuse to race anywhere else. Get her ported and make sure your tires aer good and low pressure and you should spank 'em.