NickisGod

hum im pretty sure i tryed that.......

how do u remover the pressure plate? i seized my clutch and can seem to remove the bitch, i took it off once before but all i remember doing is just unscrew 6 screws and pull it off with my hand. but now i cant seem to get it off, i dont wanna use a jaw puller but i need to remover this, but i needs to be removed

ive been to la once... i drove there in this pile from buffalo ny. heres the bonus question. Nickisgod takes a 1990 buick park ave to LA from NY. he make a stop in la and meets juan, jaun ask whats nickisgod what hes smoking. juan and his boys quickly surround nickisgod and nick leaves with 30% less grand daddy purple. assuming nickisgod had 3.5g to start what percentage in grams did nick is god leave la with?

personaly i think my shee should be on the banner!!! whos with me? :thumbsup:

ive always used a rm stator. ive owned 2 of the 200watt ones on two different motors and was very please with the results! watch out though, the last stator i bought ended up being a 100watt vs a 200watt but because i know my stators i quickly located a product number did the research and contacted rm stator for my replacement. in the end i paid ten dollars to re ship and got a set of 45w bulb for free!!! rm are great people, but there french-canadain. i seem to have trouble understanding them

i think id take it to some one to do it for me before i split my cases. i seem to run into one small error when i do shit

the water pump seal is only 15minutes used since install, and i was not able to get at my shift star before i put my quick change clutch cover on. i should be able to pull my window off and and fix the problem, and ya i guess ill do a search on how to install it. btw i bought a boss clutch saver

word! you mean to tell me my 350 twin has a secret double life as a welder! impressive. im hoping i have the easy fix, i bought the pancake bearing and i also ordered a keval barnett dirt digger clutch. am i missing anything? (other that maybe a new rod) do i use the ball bearing if my shee uses a pancake bearing?

ive been looking, i no this is mechanical failure, not mechanical advantage. it sucks because i know nothing about how to to trouble shoot a problem in this catagory

nobody has any pictures?

no, the clutch will not release. i can pull the lever and i dont feel any response from the clutch its "locked up"

i just got one, and i rode it for 15 mins and now the lock up has locked up!!!

ok so lets say they arnt fully welded, can i replace them without splitting the case? and how did this happen? is this a result of a lock up clutch?

well i guess "if" wasnt the case, and im paying for "it" now. what do i need to do, just explain to me what happened and whats involved to repair it

o shit...... why! explain

well today was my first day out on my motor setup. after much frustration with the cool head, i finished the build and took it for a short spin, let my second pair of hands also try it and we were both impressed with the results. and then. i hop back on it to validate my success and started down the road. idk what i did exactly but the clutch started softening untill there was almost no resistance.i check the cable and its was fine. then the clutch stopped working all together. i took the lockup off to try to see if i could free it up and nop........ nothing. what should i do. and then my friend goes, you have coolant leaking out the nut right here and i tryed to tighten it down and it would. i though the stud was stripped but to my surprise the whole stud pull out of the case taking the threads with it. come on guys help me out here! i need some ideas!

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! go figure. my lock up clutch work for all of 15 minutes, now i have no responses in my clutch cable. the cable is pulling but there is no resistance. i tryed removing the clutch pressure plate and it appears to be frozen on. uh oh what now!???

ps i never said asr were bad, i loved there packaged deal on ebay they offer. i paid around 500 and got a complete front end package (brake lines, tie rods, ball joints, arms, ect). most companies charge extra for longer tie rods and ect, and dont offer life time warranty on all parts like asr do. they were great a arms, but the feel of the janssen arms.

ive just seen them on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Laeger-Laeg...sQ5fAccessories i always wanted a set, but i bought asr a arms insted, now i have janseen long travel a arms, stock design a arms seem obsolete now.

hey its not together! but she's purty!

once i get the heads on ill know the compression :thumbsup: . as of right now, there is no port because i just bought this engine. my last one case cracked.... i do alot of small dirt and rock quarry type ridding with whoops and small jumps. sometime i take it to my beach and ride the few dunes we have.

what do you suggest? the reeds came with my bike. it had tr6 pipes +4 timing prodesign cool heads and vf2 when i bought it, since then the only parts that are from my orignal purchase is the frame, wire harness. everything else is the result of me dishing out all my money.

well ill see how the flywheel is, i dont think ill even feel much difference because of the added weight of the lockup. but ill mess with the timing untill i find one i like

good question, its a funny story. i one day by accident came accrost a topic about the same question of someone who had the same fly wheel as i. then one day i was surfing ebay i seen it as a buy now auction and i didnt hesitate to hit buy now. maybe some one can refind the post because i couldnt and would like to know myself.

my new engine is almost complete! ive almost recived all the part, and i say almost because 2 differnt companies sent me the wrong part preventing completion. but so heres what i got. check out the new fly wheel and the accompany the flywheel i got a 200watt rm stator coil. well almost, ive owned a rm coil in the past and when i opened my box and inspected the coils i knew it was wrong! the coils were to small to be 200watt and when i look up the product code to my surprise i seem that i had recieved a 100watt coil! thats being taken care of and i should have the right one sometime next week. in addition to wrong parts fire ball racing and i have been a feud because larry refused to admit he sent me the wrong color coolhead when the receipt clearly said RED COOLHEAD. they didnt wanna pay for return shipping and then sent me a bunk ups return mail adress!!!! so i paid for it myself and supposly going to get a check along with a new coolhead. yeah right.......i had to call them 4 times a day because they can operate a cnc mill but cant dial a ten digit number..... in addition to my bad luck direct drive still hasnt shipped my lockup clutch but at this point it makes no difference. today i recieved my dynatek fs cdi!! and am expecting a trinity 2 into 1 carb setup with 35mm within the week. with this all being said heres my complete engine setup trinity 2 into 1 with a 35mm pwk vf2 200watt stator at +4 dynatek and setting 3 extreamly light flywheel fireball racing heads with 20cc domes direct drive lock up clutch billet impeller wiseco pistions (i think stock mm) paul turner mids with fb silencers no air box only filter with outer wear and for fuel im using only 100-112 octane with this all being said im only about 500+ feet from sea level, so any ideas or suggestions to what i should be using for jetting? and also what do you guys think of the dynatek ignitions. should i get the programming cable or just use the presets?