NickisGod

i bought mine for ebay. the bolts it comes with r fine, they arnt tapered like the hondas but they do work with honda sprockets. i mounted mine backwards to clear my skid plate.

i rememeber some one saying 450s calipers will work on a arm shee spindles. i just used the entire setup spindles hubs and calipers. i know for a fact the disc are the same. and for the rear use a 250r caliper. trust me on that one lol

rofl

doofmeatwadd is mine. i use to be heavy into cod, but have moved towards halo reach and will agian move once cod returns

... now I see why you have twice the amount of post as I do even though we joined in the same year. This should be in the product reviews section and a cap should be set on ppl like u and elka shee. All you guys do is waste our time and cyber space

wow! wtf is up with that bike man. stacked scilencers???no link swinger? seems like the person before had a dream woke up and then relized he didnt have the tools but continued on anyways. check the chassis bro, make sure its straight before u decided to do anything.

rolf, i wish you would of left it lol makes me feel good about myself! to bad it was removed before i got to this topic

wait really?

a cheetah is ussaly a larger bore, powervalved(or block off plates) motor using dm style domes and head w/ cr 250 reed valves. this mean stock banshee componets will not fit from the head up. cubs are a less intense version of the cheetah and u can still use most cool heads and stock style reeds and intakes. these are more favorable because the are cheaper in multipul ways(build and rebuild) and can run with the cheetahs with a fraction of the spending. ive had both a cheeth and a cub, id say go with a 4mill cub with blaster pistons. this makes a extremly powerful motor with the cheapest rebuild cost. keep in mind, most aftermarket cylinders require nikisil and cannot be bore. other alternatives are porting boring and stroking your stock componets. i for one dont like stock

you will need a steering stem with anti vibe mounts so no, these will not work on stock stem. although my stem is extended plus two, id imagination this does rise the bars up

$60 shipped i really want fat bars, and i need to sell/trade the clamp i have now. pm with questions thanks!!

I Had these on my cub, cheetah and a stocker. I've owned. Both mids and highs, and like the highs better. I admitt they wernt the best choice for a cheetah but they sure as hell rip on my cub and stocker. I have them on a 800 dollar banshee I found on cl and I ride the blue one faithfully now and love it. The power is smooth, power band is broad but these arnt ment for asphalt or drag racing. Btw the design on these pipes share nothing with yamahas orignal design. Yamahas pipe flow is very linear vs ptrs is very concentric and has smooth bends. They do share the idea that the rider shouldn't have skin melted to the chrome and use the orignal mounting location as stockers. Make sure u get the new style ptrs that have a oring flange. Mids might be a better option for you but my other bike only has the high revs and a rejet and I hold my own agianst a yfz and raptor.(I'm not talking about drag racing, I'm talking trail and track)

I'm gong on the 20th. Its my first time

the orings are black, yes they came this way. agian when you buy a so called "kit" you expect that the kit has been R&D and is 100% out of the box. i bought new orings from m&m, using an unburnable oring dosnt solve the problem if u ask me something else is going on here(?domes?). i have 38mm carbs and will have it put back together this weekend.

The same thing happen to my buddies tecate. We think the crank seperated, but he's to pissed off and lazy to split the case. More than likely they did seperate and now the are pressed agianst the case walls

i got s streamline one. serves it purpose well

I've got the domes and the pipes but my orings are toast snd gotta wait till Monday to order a set. Not to mention my motor is in ruff shape from the handfull of rides I took. I guess I'm gunna ride it till it dies, there's no point in repairing it now if it still runs. Plus the damage is done so when it finnaly eats shit I guess ill be ordering a 400 dollar set of pistons will have my cylinders re nikisil. O yeah and and repowdercoating them also.... this is why I'm pissed off and I wanna makesure no one else has to spend multi thousands of dollars are scrape alumium

so how many bhq'ers experienced trinity's bullshit? ive for one though that the people who bashed trinity had some grudge against the company for a lost race or some lemon they've received. well i hate to sound like one of many member's on the forums that are so fed up with trinity products, im contemplating going back to a stock motor and being happy with what i originally had. sticking to the point of this topic i want everyone and anyone who owns a trinity cheetah or is considering purchasing one to understand what kind of shit your going to be stepping in. i purchased the 485 (73mm bore 4mill) pv cheetah in spring assembled it and from the get go was having problems. i had it dyno at 68 hp after jetting and this is where the red flags started waving that a full blown shit storm was on the horizon. unsatisfied with the hp numbers, i was able to get into contact with windyjohn from the boards and within the hour and half of story exchanging the guy had me figured out and predicted the next three weeks. john left me 3 very important pieces of advice get rid of the trinity domes get a set of shearer sb pipes and never trust anything from trinity. the story behind the domes is as follows. the angle of the trinity dome is matched with the piston crown, however this is not what your want. you want the explosion to be centered on the piston and not blowing out the sides of your cylinders. the faulty domes will not only melt your o rings, it also hold back the entire engine. gears 1-4 are fine but once you hit 5-6 the engine is dogged out, on a bike that suppose to be rated around 90+ hp. one other small thing i was also enlightened about was proper measurement and shape of cylinder walls. from what im told these cylinders are made just as fast as they are sold and quality control is less than effiecent. what more can say when everything some one said to me over the phone came true, and now my barely used cheetah motor has signs of detonation. if you ask me there is no excuse for this, trinity is the toyota of it class selling faulty products. playing with a mans motor is playing with his emotions dont let trinity get you! (you can get the proper domes from titan racing) good luck

ttt

$575 shipped in the us??? anyone?

No disrespect taken lol, and wat a sick bike that is. Windyjohn has enlighten me on trinity products and I'm sure mailman will do the same. Gl on you bike I hoppe everything works out

Ooo I like thoes k and t ones, they have a jet window. The only thing I wonder is if they have a float stop, that's why I say don't buy the boss one

No one wants a set? Come on

Could this possably be a sign of a trinity dome? To much compression? Pm windycityjohn and he'll give u a piece of mind. The only way I see that happening is over torqueing the head stud, I no its tuff to admit to but its a life lesson we all make once. You can repair them by using a heli coil, good luck

chariot performance has a great set. dont buy the boss bowls though.