NickisGod

theres not enough information for me to help you. but ill give you my best shot with what you gave me. you said it started once. that tells me that you atleast have spark. but id be suspect that maybe somewhere along them lines something isnt right. electrical heres where i would start. look for obvious melted, chaffed or broken wires. check the entire electrical assembly. oem electronics only! this means stock cdi, stator and flywheel. any after market componet here could cause random and inconsistant spark. ive once had my pick up coil rattle loose on my stock 350 banshee. it worked kinda. then would die after it bounced around a few times. look for a bad ground contact on the coil. clean the contact to the frame with sand paper and make sure its getting good ground contact. check the boots for the spark plug to the plug wires. these are knowen to get shitty after many years of abuse. oem replacement only! check spark on both sides by pulling the plugs and using the motor as a ground. you should see a health blue spark. (now that i think of it. are the plugs correct and good?) dumb but easy imo, you want to simplify the bike to get it back to square 1. this means yes, remove the reed spacers, check the reed pedals. the boost bottle can stay, although if you do want to delete it, dont be cheap, just buy the correct intake boots. you will not notice any difference keeping it, plugging it, or removing it. just note, air leaks in this area could cause a lean condition melt down. (i dont think this part has anything to do with your issues) compression test would defiently help make an accurate assement of the motors current health. this is easy too! this sounds stupid! but make sure the key and kill switch are on! if you cant kick start it, get a buddy to tow you and bump start it. this will atleast help you get the bike warm. fuel i dont want to reccomened starting fluid. but i am. a little bit in the air box and kick it over. if you hear it start to run or try to run, id be suspect that you have a fuel delievery issue. check to make sure your fuel valve is on!!! how is the fuel flow? pull the hoses and turn the gas on. does it seem consistant? get rid of any inline fuel filtration. make sure lines arnt kinked. is there possibly sand in the piliot jets? did you make sure everything is correct and put back together right in the carbs? ppl are nortorious for losing carb parts and using incorrect componets to fix thier mistake. use mid grade gasoline. if you are running high octane with too little of compression, your motor will be unhappy. thats all i got 4 u. remember. fuel, air, spark and compression is all you need to get a banshee motor to run. eliminate each of them and i bet youll be ripping in no time. gl

yes. but others mentioned that a rear braking would benifit from a larger rotor if it would fit. something i plan on revisiting when time permits.

keeping the thread alive even though ive posted this to my build thread. poor tz. it sat on a shelf for about 11 years untill i mustard up the balls to open up the cases. well here it is. i advise staying far away from this bearing. just my opinion.

stock length.

out of hiding now. this post is old af and some of my earliest work. i think theres more to be done here. maybe ill revisit this in the fall for anyone whos still reading this.

i original seen the idea brought up by chariot performance asking the HQ about dual piston calipers. so me being impatient, i cant wait for chariot performance. a few people have already successfully swapped out there banshee calipers with trx250r and chimed in on chariots post. i got the general idea of what was involved, but i jumped into this blind and came out on top. So heres what i did. First off your going to need a round house banshee swingarm, otherwise this will not work. given you have the correct swingarm arm you will also need a trx250r brake stay, C ring puller, 4 washers, trx250r caliper, bench grinder and Hybrid rotor. Step 1. you will notice when you receive you brake stay that there is a milled spacers on the surface. this has to be removed in order to fit on your carrier. i used a bench grinder and grinded little at a time until it was perfect. after you grind it, it should look like this and fit like that. Step 2. so after you have your brake stay on and you axle back on, you will notice your caliper will not bolt on. this is because the banshee brake hub will not clear the caliper, and modification is required again. i took my bench grinder and ground about a half inch into the alumium and made an arch effect. Step 3. Step 3 should be pretty self explanatory. you will need 2 pairs of washers to shim out the caliper from brake stay, bolt your custom disc onto your hub, check your hubs clearance with the caliper, bleed brakes and tighten everything down and enjoy. here are some pics of the spacing of the washers, and some various other comparisons pics. and a few comparisons pics that i borrowed from the site. my rotor was cut by JDS or 87sheerips, honda used a 7.10inc disc vs yamahas 8.5inch, this increases ground clearance while adding braking performance. contact him for your own! my purpose for writing this is to help out anyone whos fed up with yamahas shitty rear brakes. it always nice to have directions when staring a project so you dont have to learn the hard way, gl and enjoy

thats what i though about doing. except i didnt want to modify mine considering that this is an antique now but in your case the hole and threads are already there so i say go for it. another thing that i notice the the graphic missing telling me at some point someone worked on it. let me know how it goes for you. im curious to know how well it works for you because i was going to do something similar but mount it to the skid plate so i dont mess with the swingarm.

yes, i know. the orignal length swingarm from avenger never used a chain slide... ikr. i bought one when i was like 19 or something and was pissed off when i realized this. they said only the plus 2 and above would need it, but my point was yamaha and everyone else uses them..... why dont you? im currently thinking about buying a lsr swingarm for this reason, but to be honest it looks like someone modified that swing arm to fix avengers error. this site is dead now. goodluck finding any info here. you just so happen to get lucky with a google search i just did and found you.

hello everyone. its nice to be back typing to yall again. this is the last photo of my bike before its tear down and acute part out. im going to rebuild it from what i managed to saved in boxes. the motor is still the same 485 pv cheetah top end, og frame and some other odds and ends. what im missing currently is sb inframe shearer pipes, rear suspension and an entire front end setup and wheels. so fill me in while i was gone. what is the best a arm setup in 2020? what have i missed? has the banshee world fallen off? did yall cop out and buy side by sides? did you guys miss me? anywho, any help with part selection would be appreciated.

currently in pieces,

Listen to john. He's cub was more powerful, cheaper, most importanly more reliable than my 485 cheetah.

the durablue axle ive seen has a no splined hubs, they are a pinch design. like so

looks like a lonestar axle. swing arm? who knows, alot of ppl make these.

was this the bike u were talking about?

i worked as a gasket and oring manufacture for a number of months. i was making orings from bulk spools of cord during my trinity experience and i can tell you this. viton is a pita to bond. it reacts very strange to heat and it does not like to be rebonded once severed. the benifit is that it can handle some serious heat untop of it being fuel stable. color mean nothing. color is just an easy way for material identification. typically red/orange/grey was high temp applications, black was normal air/water seals and blue/white was medical/special applications. so why are the orings black on my top end? well this is a true first hand story told to be by trinity's x-salesmen jaymes. the oring manufacture switch the material to buna(if i remember correctly) and trinity was told its all the same. well this is not true. i know this from bonding the two materials, viton is tuff as nails even when heat is applied. despite my works viton being black, it could be ordered in any color at manufactures request. i informed them about the material differences and they responded with "we already are aware of this" and "we wernt informed of a material change untill later on" (or atleast untill the sold off all the bad orings...hint.hint) orings cost about 25 cents to make, think about how much profit that is. in all fairness, trinity isnt a gasket and seal manufacture. i happen to have the right job at the right time. the orange/red orings in the picture above are the correct orings but DONT base orings of color alone. its viton or nothing..... check the link below, this is my old employer and they list material specfics. http://www.sealanddesign.com/category/O-Ring-Compounds/184.html