dirtydownunder

im just here.

the rubber cushion are a stock clutch item, with an after market clutch they dont use the cushions and are easier to install, as you can just install the steel plates anyway (the stock ones have to be installed staggerd 60 degrees from each other) as you said check for scoring and wear on the basket and pressure plate. make shaw you get a clutch cover gasket (yours might break) and while your there check your water pump impeller (might be a good time to upgrade to a billet pump ) once done make shaw you adjust your pressure plate to get the right free travel on the clutch arm through the case. (theres arrows on the case and clutch arm)

Jeff from fast is easy to work with and very helpfull, ive got parts from him but no porting, everyone that has had porting by FAST has been very happy. i had HJR source me some jugs, port them and send a rebuilt kit, HJR's turn around is very fast !! his work looks fantastic and made a big difference in power (from stock port to dune/play). Kev is aswell very helpfull. cant go wrong with either or any sponsors on here.

with the screws that are set into the carb (pilot air screws) if your around standard jetting try winding them in untill they seat, then wind them out 2 turns. do you have tors ? or tors removal kit with idle screws ?

you must have that choke tube connected, with out it you have an air leak and all your fuel mixtures will be up to shit. connect it up and see how you go, if it still doesnt idle, double check your carb sync and idle screws.

the rear vent from under the mount T's into the one near the water pump, then it goes up to the steering stem as a breather and doesnt connect to anything.

120-130psi and its throttle wide open, both plugs out and keep kicking till the needle stops moving on a warm engine. 100-115 is 15% difference so in that you should put some rings in.... try getting it warm and do another check.

ive used motul 800 mixed at 40:1 1.5 months old in a jerry, with out any problems. ive had mates use old pre mix upto 6 months old, with out any probs, but i wouldnt use it.

pods are great for tuning as you dont have to stuff around with a stupid airbox and they do look a whole lot cleaner. but as soon as you go through a decent puddle youll suck a heap in, if you going to get water and shit all over it, run a box with no lid and the lil plastic bung removed from the bottom of the box. if you like, go pods in summer and box in winter.

a bit more like this...

no.

many have used full synth on break in without any probs, just dont let it sit and idle for a while, always be loading it up and varying the rpms. after its been warm and ridden a lil bit, let it cool over night then re tension everything. then cain it.

^^

you are correct, in a four stroke application you would not use synthetic based oils, as they dont allow for proper ring to bore wear in (as the oil is too slippery and the bore will glaze up) so you use a mineral based oil with no additives. with the new car comment, they have probably been ran in on a dyno with mineral based oil, and we all know that manufacturers dont care for longevity of motors these days so they run them on full synt early. i use full synthetic in my 2stroke because im going to belt the shit out of it from day one.... ( i dont run 2 strokes in) performance four strokes on the other hand, ill use mineral based oil with no additives for 100 or so miles then switch it to full synth and take it to the dyno, if it where a 4poke id like to last, id run it on mineral for atleast 1000miles (3000miles is the old school run in period) then go from there.

good shit 230 is still lean

yeh 230 is way low, bump them up as i said in my first post. ignition systems (stators, pickups, cdi's and module's ) can get hot and stop working after some run time. check all of them for resistance when working, then when it gets hot and stops working check everything again. there is a web page that has all the banshee wiring and resistance value's but i forgot what the url is !, some one here will remember what page im talking about.

what brand carb are they ?

230's is very very lean. are you running pods or airbox with or without lid ? with lid and airbox youd wanna start at around 320's and work your way down and with pods or open box, start at around 340 mains and work your way down. rm stators are known for giving problems, do you have a stock one you can try ?. some people dont run coolant expansion tanks, as long as it goes from the filler neck to the ground its ok.

ive used motul 800 in my banshee since day one (which is only 2 and a bit years haha) and its great, just a bit expensive. I run it at 40:1 93/avgas mix and my bike cops a bit of high rev punishment, as they should and in so many "please dont blow up, please dont blow up moments" it just hasnt haha, ive kept 6th pinned for soo long so many times and it just keeps on keeping on. When i pulled my motor down at 70hrs a while ago, everything looked brand new, it was a shame to pull it down hah (but it was to slow ). I'd like to say ill see how this engine looks in a few years but i wont last that long haha i need more power i have no reason to change oils.

wish i was here ages ago !!!!

yeh man, piston clearance is piston clearance, tho check it in two places, one inline with the wrist pin and 90 degrees to it. .002 is a tad to tight for a forged piston, im not shaw what wiseco recommend. but forged pistons grow quite a bit when warm. i ran a lil search and people are saying .002 is fine, but id double check that with wiseco... wiseco reckon this... 03. What kind of piston-to-wall clearance can I run? A. The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling. Most small blocks get .004 piston to wall clearance and most big blocks get .005 due to the use of our 2618 high-strength alloy. For heavy blower and nitrous applications, Wiseco recommends adding .001 to the standard clearance. Special note: Clearance numbers are obtained from measuring the largest diameter of the piston, typically at the bottom of the skirt. All measurements should be taken 90 degrees from the pin centerline.

hahahah nice circle work !

one thing to expect from this site is the members not really being amped to help a lil bitch. run the bike for a few seconds with a few lil blips of the throttle then shut it down. pull both plugs and check them out, if one or both is really clean it could a blown head gasket. (doesnt work that well with new plugs as they are clean anyway) If you can borrow a Co2 tester from a mechanical work shop or trailer your bike down, you can give it a sniffer test to see if there is C02 in the water (meens blown head gasket) adding cold water to a hot engine is a big no no as it can/will cause warpage. so are you saying it was running fine, then you noticed steam and you reconnected the hose and added coolant, then it started to miss ? P.S this should have been in "Banshee Repairs and Mods" not "General Banshee Discussion" .....

you sound a bit lean man, try some 310's and work from there. id replace the boots, they have already started to crack, they will keep going untill they leak if they havent already.

welcome Mr. Passion. ive heard alot of good things !