dirtydownunder

congrats loco !!!! yeh, what matt said that was the first thing i thought haha.

i had HJR do my dune port, and i use it everywhere trail and the dunes. its been an awesome lil motor. ask them (or who you use) what they think about the t6 pipe. you could just run it, untill you get t5's or other pipes. ive never ran the t6 so i dont know, ive just "heard" shit and good reviews on a ported motor with them.

nah, they are evenly spread, 1hd 1nm 1hd 1nm etc, and the plate is thick enough to evenly spread the load.

dune port for sure man, id keep the t6's (just speak to your porter about them, some people say they work well with porting) nah you wont have to touch your crank (but if its not welded, id get that done) so provided your crank is welded and your seals are all good (id just rebuild the whole thing) all your up for is, porting, gaskets, pistons and some jets. and if you get your crank welded, whilst your cases are apart, you could match port the ported jugs to the cases. 3 hd springs and 3 normal on a new clutch and your all good. cost is around $600-900

"Mineral-based, Transoil is specially formulated for gearboxes with wet clutches" this means its good for you !!!, in moderation.

get some ported cylinders. all your power comes from the ports.

the lil black box under your fuel tank to the left hand side is the tors box, disconnect that. the wires going to the thumb throttle, disconnect that. the wires to your park, im not sure, if you have to connect them or disconnect them (youll find out when it doesnt go haha) there is more TORS remove threads on this forum than anything else, so just run a few search's, it his all here.

wow thats a great price !!!

welcome !!! be cool, get a banshee ! they are awesome machines, except there is way to many available parts for them, an youll keep spending money on it, because you can .

i had mine wet bead blasted and they came out like new. i had all of the mounting surfaces taped up, but the peeps removed it as the beads are so small and light, it only removes the top surface like it polishes the aluminium only and doest distort or warp it in any way.

most power from porting is done on the exhaust and transfers, but you would think they would at least clean up the cast flaws in the intake, but you never know, if you take your head off you'll see if it has or not. if your head had been re chambered, id just take it off when you do and cc the combustion chambers to see where you are at, or just find a cool head with some 21 or so cc domes, depending on what fuel you want to run. .042 is on the tight side for a 4mm, but i dont know how A/S build motors, have you tried calling them and asking about there stock head 421 motors ? ive never done a leak down before, up to you. while its together you can check, or you can just buy some seals, gaskets and rings and rebuild the sucker. if you put a lil bit of oil down the cylinders, does the compression come up ? ( oil will help seal the ring to the bore, if you get a substantial amount difference, your rings are worn. did you try another gauge ?

usually most of the adjustment is done on the air spring, they have pre set valving from factory but when you buy them new, they offer a 30 day re valve guaranty, that if you dont like it, they will re valve it for you, for free.

i break in motors pretty hard as well. treat em mean, keep em keen.

yep, highly recommend kevin ! prices -> http://herrjugsracing.com/Yamaha_Banshee.html

as phelps said, make sure the slides are down, and when you flick the throttle you can hear them hit the base of the carb. wind all the idle screws out and same with the throttle cable at both ends so you have to give it throttle to get it to idle. then go from there. what inlet manifold are you using ? has the throttle cable been rerouted ? 10 seconds is a long time haha.

or $200 later and a 5 min trip to the machine shop.

hey, have you got the bearing support bracket screw out ? , its behind the basket, the bracket is a semi circle thats half goes around the trans shaft bearing. one screw goes to the top case and the other to the bottom, just undo one. the stator also bolts the 2 halfs together.

more trouble and money than its worth, especially for a 4mm, stock stroke, stock bore. get your trans modded and youll love it.

i have to say a faulty plug, ive seen some crazy shit happen inside combustion chambers, but never a clean chunk removed from the insulator.

yeh its habbit for me to use some sealant on both sides of the washer and a touch on the bottom of the threads. i have a chariot head and its never had an issue.

a better vid they dont make them any more i dont think, but if you get enough people together, they will do a big run ?, i think thats what happened last time.

the pistons wont be timed right at TDC and BDC with each other and ignition timing will be out, when they go out of phase. it will start to run like poo, eventually. some people get away with it and some dont even notice it, but i would have T&W it before i put it in.

ps3 ftw !!!! notbarry -add me !

yes !! true and weld your crank !!. my bolt on shee with only 60 hours on it, had an untrue crank. so even the slightest mods can twist them. its cheap insurance. (and they do move around, so it has to be done)

i have some off of an 08, and they didnt even send the 08s to the US, so these are especially rare. low hour, high fun $327.14 they can be yours, dont get ripped off by this guy.