Jump to content

dirtydownunder

Members
  • Posts

    3,100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by dirtydownunder

  1. oko 30 ? start at 152/45 and work your way down ? it could be happy at around 145, but better to work your way down from rich.
  2. loco's brother has a pretty sweet orange banshee, ill try find some pix.
  3. looks safe ! and good !, id run it. untill you feel like pushing for more power.
  4. ive always got my seals and gaskets from FAST, im sure most of the sponsors carry it all. http://www.bansheehq.com/yz-banshee-specs-sponsors.html
  5. i retract my last comment, i dont want anything to do with them cylinders..... no offence..
  6. any idea where the cylinders came from, or who ported them ?. id say start around 340-350 and work your way down. with 27.5 pilots
  7. its a low port timed cheetah cub, that has a broader curve than the cheetah cub. so like a best of both worlds of a stock cylinder and cheetah cub. theres bulk info in the "sponsor spotlight" forum.
  8. you can take the hose off and turn it around for a better fit as well.
  9. yes, if you take the head off, you should replace the gasket, and you can spray the new gasket with a gasket joining compound like hylomar, copper spray...etc for added insurance. you can try re tensioning ( if it was never re tensioned after first warm up and cool down, that could be your problem right there) loosen one nut at a time, starting from the inside nuts and work your way out to the edge. no, you dont have to touch the base gasket, but just check the base nuts for tightness while your there. gaskets are cheap, if its still leaking after a re torque, take the head off and check both the head and jugs for straightness (straight edge and feeler gauges) if all is good, get a new gasket spay it, tension it down in steps (10ft/lb, 15,20) working from inside out. is your spacer plate under the jugs or under the head ? is it leaking from the stud or head/jug joining area ?
  10. haha do you work in radio ? nice climb, you get that bike anywhere !
  11. both are great, hjr ported my last motor, it ran hard and he answered bulk questions. youll be happy with either or any of the other sponsors on here.
  12. , the only real way to tune an engine is with it running so you would have to pay the builder for build time and tune time. the builders are pretty dam good and will get you real close, and with them in your ear and you just changing jets, youll do it easy !, then in time you will "feel" how to jet your self. always jets richer to stay safe and lean it out to perfection. check ya spark plugs, they tell you whats happening in the engine. wet/dark too rich - dry/light (looks like its been hot) to lean, there is pics all over the net, search "plug chop" to see colours differences. your builder/porter, if you give him all your riding details, they will get you pretty close anyway...
  13. i run a slingshot in mine with 6 stock springs, mainly because after trailing for a while my hand gets all bitchy.
  14. ghost flames !! i reckon it looks good haha. if you cant feel it, maybe the other part of the plastics is sunburnt and its left the template of the sticker.
  15. just use banshee reed gaskets.
  16. 10,9,16.8 and 123 for more tq around 8,688rpm.
  17. they wont fit in the stock head, the stock head is an all in one piece head, the domes arnt removable.
  18. snipers are good for 421 cubs and bigger. i think they are bringing out pipes for smaller motors tho..
×
×
  • Create New...