dirtydownunder

a longer swingarm will make it loose traction. throw a stock length one on and wheelie like a mofo. do you use paddle tyres much ?

hahaha i didnt watch it, but i think i know the one it is hahahahaha. funny as.

try searching when on the main page forum, other wise your just running a search on the topic/thread your on.

haha stop being modest, matt and my self wouldnt of known anything about these things if it wasnt for your plethora of serval knowledge.

a cheetah cub is a ported serval. serval will have more bottom, less top. and a cheetah cub will have less bottom and more top. the cheetah can be tweaked more with compression and ignition advance.

its a stray cat, that you try and take in and look after, but all it does is piss inside and scratch everything up.

22-23cc for stock heads, they vary. i dont know what cc a stock head milled .030" is. but to get 155ish psi @ sea level, youd think around the 20-21cc mark. get some thickish flat perspex and a syringe (cc/ml) and get measuring. coz your running a stock head, you can just run a thicker head gasket to lower the compression.

cpi's will work great on it.

the difference is noticeable, your t5's will hold you back with the cub cylinders tho. the difference with stock or 4mm serval price wise is around $500 (Crank, bearings, seals and gaskets) the 4mm will push a bit more hp and tq (torque being very noticeable over the stock cylinder) and for around 550 bux, i think its worth it. if you go stock stroke, there will be less bike down time and youll be back on the sand in no time. if you go 4mm, youll have more hp and tq and will never have the thought of " should have i gone 4mm ? " i dont believe it would be worth it, running the t5's.

not just sponsors, awesome sponsors !!!!!. no stick figures on this banner either, happy times

i run one also, ive only heard good things .

id be talking to people over there, that have licensed their banshee's. youl be fine with stock cages and after market reeds, you can port your stock cages if you like to do stuff. some sponsors on here like "chariot" have after market cages that are pretty nice.

run a thicker head gasket, and restrict the shit out of the pipes n carbs. retarded timing will help some what but prolly not worth it. seems like alot of effort ?, you going to swap parts around when you get home after licensing ?

bigger cc domes and retard the timing a bit (not too far or it will get hot), taller gearing , stock pipes, restricted mufflers and or carbs. spk to the dyno operator and ask him to play with the corrections, to read a lower hp.

check both pickup points too.

doesnt get much better than that.

oh you had to ask that question ! haha. just stock carbs n t5's, so the motor is severely choked. and has like 10-15hp left in it, just from a pipe n carb change.

haha love the dunes . running a f.a.s.t clutch kit with a slingshot lockup.

hot rods use orings on the bearings. too easy. enjoy.

they look ok, the main area for the bearings is still pretty good. just clean up the edges of the damage. are you going to run a crank that has the orings on the bearings instead of the pins ?

hope all is well man. fukn trees !!! those bastards dont move aye !

yeh, copper coat or spray hylomar.

hit up wildcardracing !!, they make billet intakes that are offset to the right and up, to clear the clutch arm and left stinger.