dirtydownunder

pull the clutch cover off, and check out the shift arm spring and adjustment bolt. check the shift star lever spring too. you might have to pull the clutch basket off to fully see the star and the selector.

UPDATE UPDATE !!!! new coil, leads, plug caps and plugs. still fucked.

i just use the 3m sticky pads that come with it, and mount it on my helmet.

if the aluminium isnt totally pure, the anodising can make it go black..... i think

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thats not a go pro. the HD go pros beep loudly when you turn then on and off and start, stop record. you know what they are doing, unlike the old go pro.

haha . geez 13 years ! keep on keeping on !!

i dont know if they changed the design, but my chariot head has those locating nubs machined into the head, to damage or break them would require heaps of effort ? if you can put the dome in, and spin it into place and it locks it, id say its fine to use. i put the domes in the head then lower the head complete onto the block.

i like to tomahawk people in the face.

gopro hd is great, and the sound is so good and crisp through the non waterproof backing !!!!

from dyna. Specifications Primary Resistance: 0.5 ohms Primary Inductance: 3.7 mH Secondary Resistance: 11.8K ohms Secondary Inductance: 28 H Secondary Available Voltage (unloaded): 40 kV Spark Energy: 50 mJ Secondary Available Voltage (loaded): 36 kV* Secondary Current: 60 mA Overall Dimensions: 4.2" x 2.3" x 1.6" Approx. Weight: 9.8 oz looks like its broke to.

ah cool as jereme, thanx heaps for that. with the secondary, you test between both plug leads. but its ok, ill borrow some ones coil and buy some new caps and try . im waiting on dyna to send me their coil specs.

so when did this site start ? i seen reference's to 98 99 !!. this would have to be one of the longest most active sites around. you need a bit of hate with some love, it balances out. noobs start out as noobs, saying dont hate noobs, then when they arnt noobs any more, they are calling out noobs haha. im still a spring chicken on this site, dont even have my first bhq pube yet.

we have plenty of oils at work, that dont end in 30 and all have FM's in them.

280 could be a lil lean, as 280 main is the jetting for t5 pipes (close to sea level) with the lid on, but with 12 1" holes through out the box., so maybe 290-300 would be better with an open lid and K&N. that pipe looks like it got a bit hot too (lean) my t5's never left blueing like that, with 3years of abuse. the pipe will move its only a oring seal, so a lil movement is ok. your coming into winter too, so you will have to richen up the jetting for when it gets colder.

no, it has friction modifiers. atf and other wet clutch trans oils dont have friction modifiers. FM's is what burns up clutch packs. you cant use lemonade as coolant either or olive oil as premix.

yeh, tests should be done at around 20c / 68f. dont worry about it jereme, bikes arnt important. be with ya pop.

hey ak. i sent dyna an email about primary and secondary resistance specs a few days ago. just waiting for an email back.

R is resisted. earlier banshees ran b8es when the newer ones ran br8es. i dont know what year the change over or ignition was. what year is your bike ? what plug does the cdi have ? round or square, the plug is located under the rear of the seat under the plastic, inbetween the silencers, its a black box. your probably fine with the br8es

clean bike man !!!!. plugs look rich but i dont know how old they are. looks like a bit of pitting on them too, maybe to much timing ? to prevent a melt down again, pull the carbs and check what jetting its running, and pull the stator cover to see if it has a timing plate and where its set to. and do a comp test to see what PSI its kicking. get some br8es plugs (they are cheaper than the ones you have and work well) 40:1 is fine. welcome to the HQ

cheers jereme, that would be good man. !! nutwood is gonna test his dyna coil for me too, so i can compare that coil. i have a plug cap that doesnt even register on the meter, so thats another thing. if my coil is stuffed and the plug cap, that means im going through caps and coils once a year ?. this is all for chasing a stutter under load at around 5-6000rpm only wide open throttle in a high gear (4,5,6) bike runs like a champ every where else. i know what your saying bansheedude, that why i thought id ask if there was a "real world" spec. but ive found with ignition, out of spec usually results in failure.

you sure ?, i got some stock reed cages coming. maybe you got a number wrong ?

clymers say to check the secondary, you test from the terminal to the corresponding plug wire, 1) i get no reading. 2) this is not how you test the secondary anyway. tho when i test both plug wires (what i thought the correct way to check the secondary was), i get the correct reading (out of spec in this case) and with the primary, has anyone tested a coil thats been within spec ?, my stocker and dyna coil all are way outa range (stock, .8 ohm) (dyna 1. ohm) ( spec is .28 - .38) the secondary on my dyna is 10.1** ohm (spec is 4,700-7,100ohm) so yah tis fuxord the stock coil is within spec at 5.6** ohm, but primary is still too high

haha. im a full time mechanic too, i know how you feel. but once you get it sorted and you have some fun on it, its all worth it.