2001Stroker

If you know anyone with a metal lathe, it looks pretty east to make. That's a neat little setup. If you find out who makes it, let us know.

He means a measuring caliper. Looks like a C-Clamp, but has a dial or digital numbers on it. You get exact measurements with them. Down to the hundreds of thousands of an inch.

I don't have one on mine. I think it looks good without it. With the boxy look of a Banshee, it's hard to find one that fits the look of the bike. Personally, if I had to have one, I would just PC, or chrome the stock one. Whatever you do, just DON'T get the shark mouth.

Yaxy, 2-Strokes don't have cams.

Well, I was reading the posts before this, and he mentioned that he was going through a fire academy. He said it was going to take 9 months total. So, maybe he is struggling for time. I'm sure he'll get back to us.

I'm also curious.....

I have the little 2" diameter Trail Tech lights on my bike. They came with the 50w bulbs. If these are the lights that you have, here's a fix. Home Depot or Lowes has the 35w bulbs for those housings. The track lights, that mount on the ceiling of a house, use 120volt AC current, but those fixtures internally converts the power to 12volt DC current. They sell replacement bulbs for those track lights, which are the same size and have the same plug, as on the Trail Tech lights. That's what did on mine, and they are alot brighter than the stock Banshee lights. And, in my opinion, they look better, too. They sell those replacement bulbs for like $6-7. I can't find them online, but they do have them in stores. They look just like this one, but are 35w. The one here is only 20w. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...uctId=100009329

I have Keihin 35mm carbs. They still have the chokes on them. The weather around here sucks. One day it's 79, and the next it's 30. Temps range anywhere from 10 degrees and no humidity in the winter, to 110 degrees and 100 percent humidity in the summer. I have never used the chokes. My bike starts on the 2nd kick, no matter how cold it is. But, I'm sure it all depends on how cold blooded your engine is. I use race gas, with alot of compression. That may have something to do with it. I'm sure your luck is just like mine, though. If you buy them without chokes, you'll need them.

They're a good price. The triangle look is definitely different. I think if they were square, they would be alot easier to grab (for me anyways, I grab with my palms down). Also, I think the L.E.D.'s would last longer if they were mounted under the bar, and recessed a little. I'm sure it wouldn't take long to smash them like that. Would you be interested in building me a custom aluminum grab bar? PM me, if you can.

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong. Since a 2-Stroke has the lubricating oil mixed in with the gas, if a bike were to flip up-side-down and run for a little while, a "knock" shouldn't be an engine noise. Most of you guys on here have owned a Banshee much longer than me, and should know. I have had plenty of 2-Stroke toys, and none of them have knocked, due to them being turned over. Could his knock most likely be in the transmission?

I looked for months, trying to find a decent Banshee. I couldn't find one that didn't need alot of work done to it. So, I posted one of those dreaded "WTB: 2001-2006 Banshee, $3000" Craigslist ads. Well I checked my e-mail about an hour later, and someone had responded to it. It said something like this; I have a 2001 in Va Beach, and I have receipts for over $7,000 worth of parts and work, that was done within the last month. I wrote back; Sorry, I don't want to spend anymore than $3,500. He says, That will work. From what I gathered, his wife was pissed that he spent so much on it, and made him get rid of it. Just to get her back, he sold it to me for $3,500. And get this, he drove about 45 minutes, and delivered it to me, filled up the tank with racing fuel, and gave me a gas tank full of racing fuel, already mixed. Then, he told me to make sure I join BansheeHQ.com. So, here I am.

agreed.........

If it's fast than you can cut them because the bike can back up the look. But if it's slow than you're better off leaving it looking stock. :biggrin: I beg to differ...........This thing ain't no slouch, and I still have the fenders. :biggrin:

Man, I'm glad I live on the east coast! There's a gas station right up the street from my house that sells 76Racing Fuel (110 octane) for $5.35/gal. But there's alot of demand for it. Everywhere you go, there's a race track of some sort. Plus, alot of stuff (including petroleum products) gets shipped from other countries to here before it gets distributed.

Yup, air leak. Maybe a torn intake boot or bad seal.

Silver Maier plastic, purple powdercoated frame, snakeskin textured seat cover. Working on the engine's cosmetics.

I migth try that, since I do live on salt water. I think I'll try it on something cheap, though. Like the parking brake block off. If it works on that, then I'll go to the more expensive stuff.

I've got 35's on mine. Had to jet it up a little to get it running perfect. But I do have 18cc domes.

Sorry, you said master cylinder. I looked for one on the internet, but I'm not going to spend all day on it. ModQuad has several that are polished billet aluminum, with billet cap. I'll be getting one of those shortly. Ebay has some stock ones, but they are all used. Just Google it.

Here's a brand new caliper, loaded with new pads, new mounting bracket, new parking brake block off, and new banjo bolts and washers. I might buy one, just to have it around, for when mine goes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-REAR-BR...79QQrefidZstore

I have a very fine metal flake in mine. Deep purple with purple flakes.

My brother had the same thing happen to him. Turned out to be the stator. You might think about replacing that. A leaking crank seal will do the same thing.

When you release the brake, is the caliper releasing all of the pressure. Maybe the caliper is sticking, or there is buildup in the line, causing it not to release all of the pressure. The master cylinder could also be sticking. Or, the spring that pulls the brake pedal back up is weak or missing. Another common problem with brakes, all of the pressure is releasing, but the caliper isn't sliding on the pins. Whenever you take off a caliper, put anti-seize on the slider pins. Brakes are real simple, especially on a fourwheeler. It would be easier to tell you what it needs, if I were there. Trial and error is probably your best method. I would start cheap. 1) Unfortunately, you're definitely going to have to replace the pads, AGAIN. 2) Put a new rotor on it. Or, if it is still thick, just have it milled. Only have enough taken off to make it straight, and no grooves in it. 3) Anti-seize the caliper's slider pins. 4) Personally, I would replace at least the line. (Go with stainless braided, with some kind of plastic coating over it) 5) Bleed the system. Afterwards, jack up the bike, so the wheels are off the ground. The rear axle should spin freely, with the transmission in neutral. If you want, drop the chain off, and spin it. There should be almost no resistance. Hit the brakes a few times, and try it a bunch of times. If they're still sticking, then the only things left to replace are the caliper, master cylinder, and the return spring. I know it's mostly common sense, but sometimes we just have brain farts. Hopefully, this helps.

Whats not working about them? I don't know how much fourwheelers need, but automobiles need the brakes broke in, for them to work properly. Did you replace the pads AND rotors? Whenever you replace pads, do the rotors, also. The rotors get grooves in them, from the pads. Did you get them really hot, and then hit a mud puddle or wash it? This will cause them to warp, bad. Alot of times, brakes have to be broke in. If you just put them on and then use the hell out of them, they glaze over, due to not being broke in. When they glaze they will squeal and/or simply not work very well, at all. Again, this is how cars work, and I'm guessing that bikes are the same. Tell us what exactly happened.