2001Stroker

http://www.jetsrus.com/main_page.htm That's about the cheapest place I've found to buy them. $2.89 for mains, and $6.09 for pilots. They just don't sell needles.

Just do it slow, and vacuum the hole out when you're done. Then leave the plug out, and run some tranny fluid through it to flush any metal out. If any gets in there, it's soft aluminum. I can't see it hurting those hardened steel gears. I think if you vacuum it and flush it, you'll be good to go. Anyone got any other thoughts on that?

You probably won't see the headlights come on just by kicking the motor over. I know I can't. I guess the stator just isn't turning over fast enough to make enough wattage. The stator has 2 outputs. 1 for lights, and 1 for ignition. I would get an ohm tester, and check the ignition side of the stator. I can't remember off the top of my head which ones to check, and how many ohms it is, but I'm sure someone will chime in. If I remember correctly, I think it's 118ohms.

no. torque it, get the motor good and warmed up, then re-torque it again.

I wouldn't use a helicoil, just because the threads will stick up past the inside of the case, and all of the oil won't drain out. Personally, I would just go to the auto part store, and get a drain plug that's a little bigger than the hole, and tap the case to fit it. I believe it was snop that used one of those magnetic plugs, and the magnet came loose, and trashed some shit. Keep an eye on it, if you use one.

Your elbow should click when it's tight enough. :biggrin:

dammit. Why do I keep waking up too late to get the shit I need? lol.

ODI Diamond grips. I love mine. Sticky as hell, even when they're wet.

Tether's are about $15 to $20, new. Here's a copy of my wiring diagram. You can see how to wire the tether where the original kill switch wires are. All the TORS is cut out, too. To get rid of the key switch, just solder and heat shrink the Black/White and Black/Red wires together. Here's the stock wiring harness.

You talking about the pivot bolts for the top a-arms? I got them. $20 shipped.

Sounds like alot of fun. Personally, I'm not a big fan of Yamalube. I tried it, and it burnt dirty as hell. I just recently switched from Maxima SuperM to Maxima Castor927, only because it has additives to help keep the powervalves clean and operating well. But, to each his own. Good luck with the build. Keep us updated with it.

I'm also thinking the bowls might be running dry. My 4mil was doing that (only when I pinned the throttle), and I ordered a Pingel. I know you can drill out your stock petcock, but it was leaking anyways. Best thing I could've done. No more running dry on me.

Why do you need a Louis Vuitton seat, 28" rims, rear view camera, and a TV on a four wheeler? And it's got a "bigger chain and pulley system". lmfao. Some of the things people will do for attention. :ermm:

I got some too, same price as moneybags. Mine are PC'd light gray.

Riding trails, you don't want an override. They are modifications to your transmission, that makes it so you can up shift while the gas is pinned, and not using the clutch. Kinda like manually shifting an automatic transmission. It's not good on them to backload the gears (let the transmission slow down the bike). You can get dunable overrides, that you can, but still not good for the woods riding.

Your "powerband" will pretty much be from idle all the way to the top, because you'll have power valves. It's gonna pull from bottom to top, almost like a 4stroke, but have the 2stroke power and RPM range. Cheetah cylinders come from the factory, pretty much drag ported. You can get a clean-up port, just to get the rough castings off, and you can get a little more out of the drag port, but you ain't getting an MX port from a Cheetah. It's already ported way past the specs of an MX port. It also comes with intake boost ports, and exhaust boost ports, and 3 large transfers. You're absolutely going to need a large radiator for it. It makes some heat. What kind of pipes are you talking? A 535 needs to breathe. What is it going in?

Thanks for the good words, and for getting it shipped out so fast.

Hope ya feel better soon, Jamey.

First, do not use octane booster. It's not consistant, and will lean you out. Second, what oil pump? Cheetah's do not use oil pumps. You pre-mix. To get the compression low enough for straight 93, you'd need somewhere between 28cc and 30cc domes, considering your timing and elevation. lt1bird's Cheetah PV 535 is in a streetbike. His has 27cc domes, and 0 timing. I believe he's using straight 110, but could probably get away with mixing 50/50. My Cheetah PV 535 has 25cc domes, +7 timing, and only runs on 110 octane. You need to explain more about your motor, and give your elevation, to really be able to tell you where to start.

18cc domes and +4 timing, I'd say you probably need 110 octane anyways. Cranking compression doesn't mean anything to me, for octane requirements. All that's for, is making sure both cylinders are close to the same PSI, and lets you know when you need to rebuild the topend. I'm sure with 110, you should be able to go up to +6. Try it, see if anything changes, and see whether or not if you can hear pre-detonation.

www.babbitsonline.com I just ordered a bunch of small OEM parts a couple nights ago from them. They have a bunch of microfische's on their site. Not sure if they have the old brakes though.

Ok. Calm the hell down. The only person I seen on here with a 5mil, had to trench. I'm guessing it just depends on the pin size?????

Stroke it 4mm. A 5mil is a waste. You have to trench your cases, and don't gain much at all, over the 4mil.

We need pics, prices, location, and verified PayPal account address.

Money sent via PayPal.