2001Stroker

x2.

Oh, if that doesn't work, hold up real tight on the tie rod and zip the nut with an impact. Can't go wrong there.

Not completely true. Brand new ones can still spin. Just lay a 2x4 across the face of them, and pop them with a hammer to make 'em seat. Make sure that you don't dent the face.

Up. They only go in one way. The holes and the rod ends are tapered to fit each other.

Well, I almost bought one, until I noticed the shipping was a dollar more than the $9.75 rebuild kit. I'll just wait until I need to buy something more expensive.

Just buy a rebuld kit for the kickstarter. Comes with a new o-ring, ball bearing and spring that pushes on the bearing. They're cheap. I need to do mine, too.

Ya'll have had your hands full with this crap lately. I think a big pat on the back is much deserved. Knock on wood, I haven't seen the bots all day.

Lucky me, they don't make them for 35mm carbs.

I'd be willing to bet you have either a blown head gasket, or a warped or cracked head. Heads usually only get warped from pulling them off or putting them on, and not using the right tightening sequence/torques. Cracked ones are usually from not using anti-freeze, and the water freezes. Either can also happen from running an engine WAY too hot. Personally, I would look at the head gasket. First though, get a coolant system pressure tester. It goes in place of the radiator cap, and reads pressure. You can also pump them up to help find leaks. Most radiator caps release pressure at 16psi. If you don't have any more than 12-14psi, I wouldn't worry about the hoses getting hard. The testers are a little expensive, so maybe you can rent one from Advance or Auto Zone. Hell, it might even be a bad radiator cap. Q-Are you losing any water? Q-Is your head gasket new? Q-Did you tighten the head in proper sequence/torques? Q-How much are your hoses swelling? A couple of people have asked you a few questions, and you haven't answered them. We need to know these things to be ablt to help you out.

I can only tell you how my bike starts. Turn on the fuel, and let the carbs fill up. Put foot on kick starter, and kick once. To this day, I have never had to use the choke, give it any throttle, or kick it more than once or twice. Even in 30 degree weather. I usually don't ride it any colder than that. She fires up everytime.

Don't pay attention to those arrows. If I remember correctly, you tighten it until it touches, then back off a 1/4 turn. Those arrows are for stock, non-worn out applications only. You can search it on here to make sure, or wait til someone agrees with me or corrects me. Sorry, I just woke up, and I'm still really groggy.

I'm sure it would look good if you actually spent the time to clean up the frame, powdercoat and chrome a bunch of stuff on it, and get rid of all the junk that your bike doesn't need. Oh, and move the electronics to under the tank, in stead of just chillin between your ass cheeks. Few bikes can pull that one off. No offense, yours ain't one of them. Needs major clean up before you try that one. Just my opinion.

I'm gonna take a shot in the dark. I'm guessing that since he was talking about them maybe not working on slide carbs, he's referring to those things that go in the throat of the carb to "redirect" or "speed up" the air going in the carb. Kinda like the Tornado thing. If you're talking about something like that, you're wasting your money.

If you have a cool head, you might have an o-ring that isn't seated properly, allowing compression to get in the cooling system. If you have a stock head, it might have a torn or blown head gasket. I would start with that, since it's easy to get to.

For some reason, I knew the next post was going to be something about that. I actually just removed those decals today. The pressure washer got to one of the letters the other day, so the rest had to go.

It ain't that rough around there, is it? Try these guys. http://www.kenforging.com/

I just wrote this in someone else's thread. I personally don't like Yamalube. I use Maxima SuperM synthetic blend. I love it. Other people will tell you different oils to use. I've seen alot of Castor927 being used, which is also made by Maxima. Some will even swear by Yamalube. I just don't think it burns clean enough. I tried it in my Yamaha jet ski, and absolutely didn't like it. I fouled alot of plugs with it. That was also a synthetic blend. Maxima seems to be working great for me. You might be able to use the search button for answers on that topic.

In my opinion, ditch the Yamalube. I use Maxima SuperM, synthetic blend, at 32:1. That's 4 ounces of oil per gallon of gas. Perfect amount of smoke, and no fouled plugs yet. Every time that I pull them to check them, they look too good to be true.

50:1 is not much oil at all. That's probably what you weedeater runs on. Most people burn 32:1. I have seen some people on here run 36:1, and a couple 40:1. Personally, I prefer 32:1, and I don't foul plugs. Are you using some junk oil? Cheap oil will not burn as good as the more expensive stuff, causing a fouled plug and wet exhaust.

I'm with ya brotha. My tires stuck out past the fenders. They didn't stop anything from slinging up. So, I cut mine a couple months ago. I think it looks alot better.

Nothing's changed here.

True. Just trying to give him another option. Plus, I'm sure he would like the benefits that he would get from a cool head. Not to mention, I like the polished look. Makes the bike faster. lol.

2-Stroke are gonna be a little weak on the bottom end. If you go up on your compression, it will give you more bottom end. But in turn, you will lose a little top end. Get a NOSS, ProDesign, or any similar head with removable domes. Play with different size domes until you get it right. Remember, each time you change the compression, you're gonna need to change the jetting and timing to match. Good luck.

I think you have to convert to DC for those.

It was removed off of eBay.