2001Stroker

My dad had some on his truck that he just got rid of. They are nice for a little bit of mud. Don't know if you're into that. They last forever on the street though. With all of the 4x4's that I've had, the best tire that I ever owned for off-road AND street driving, was Super Swamper TSL/SX. I had 35x15.50's. You can get those in 33x15.50. The 33's look sick, with the lower profile and wide ass stance. But since you're using stock rims, BFG's would prolly be be best route. Not a bad all around tire.

A tip cleaner for an acetylene torch works great. Lots of different size wires to pick from, in one tool.

Yup these things are like Chevy 350's. They haven't changed. If you end up with an older bike, you just have to watch out for more wear and tear. Especially in the suspension department. Even though you'l most likely change it to a drag setup. But keep in mind too, anyone can abuse a frame.

All 4 corners, bro. I'll bet your bike is squirrely as hell with that much air in the tires. The more air that's in the tires, the more the center of the tires bubbles out. If you have less air, the tires sits more flat, and you get more traction.

Pull the plugs. They should be a chocolate brown. Black would be rich, and white would be lean. Do a plug chop if you don't know. Here's a chart to go by.

My personal opinion, I don't like Yamalube. It burns dirty. I would try Klotz, Amsoil, or Castor927. I use Maxima SuperM, which is made by the people that make 927. There's alot of different brands of good oil. What plugs are you using now? Most people, including myself, use NGK #BR8ES. 9's are colder, and 7's are hotter. You shouldn't have to use anything hotter than the 8's with your setup. Since you bumped up your timing, have you upped you octane? Shouldn't have anything to do with oil being on the plugs, I'm just wondering. I just put this chart on someone else's thread. It's a good tool to have.

ie. Detroit Diesel 6V-71. The only problem with those is they slobber oil all over the place. But they are a strong and reliable 2-Stroke engine.

Everything they said. Unless you plan on doing some serious shit with your engine, VF3's are overkill. You probably should've went with Boyeson carbon fiber reeds. Costs alot less, and you get the same power gains on a not-so-gangster motor. Not tryin to knock your bike, just sayin vf3's are a waste of money for smaller horsepower engines. And while you're bullshittin, I probably wasted MY money on them.

No kiddin, I keep mine right at 4psi. I'm not a flat tracker, but like 350x said, keep it between 3-5.

I'm through with you.......

I think we should start something like a petition, and give it to Yamaha. Just a list of people that want to bring it back to the states. I have a friend that works for Yamaha Of America down in GA, in the marketing department. I'll ask her, and see about that.

Ok, have you tried what hylander said? Take the stator cover off, and make sure the gap is right between the stator and the pickup. Just take off the left foot peg, shifter, and then the cover. You might have to use an impact driver to get those phillips head screws out.

I agree with everyone else. Water doesn't compress. That will blow a hole right through a piston, and alot of times bend a rod. You might check your rods for straightness. I know that this isn't a 4-stroke, but water can also bend valves and pushrods.

Keep the spring in there. If you want it lighter, cut a coil or so off the springs in the carbs.

I use that on aluminum that's already been smoothed and polished. It works great for that. But, I think he's trying to take rough aluminum and make it smooth and shiney.

Do it without the plugs, use a screwdriver. Sounds like you just need some new plugs. NGK, BR8ES is what you need.

If you have a mechanic's stethoscope, see if you can pin-point it. If not, just use a 3/8" really long extension, and stick one end in your ear and the other end all over the engine until you find the noise. I have a loud knock coming from both sides of my intake. Not the reeds, carbs, or the jug, but the intake. Originally, I thought it was a rod knock. But there isn't any noise in the rotating assembly. I can't figure out why it makes that noise, but it won't go away. It's hard to ignore, but I still ride the piss out of it. My engine started making that noise about 5 hours into the break-in. It was brand new when it started.

Just send them off to theshee. PM him, I'm sure he'll be glad to do them. He'll polish to a mirror finish. There are a few other people on here that polish. If you're not worried about it being a mirror, I'm sure that someone on here that polishes would be happy to give you some do-it-yourself pointers.

First off, Coolheads don't neccessarily keep your bike running cooler. They make it easier to change your comression, plus give the top end of you engine some bling. A sticky is an important thread that stays at the top of forums. And the tors thread isn't a sticky. I did some research for you, and got it. Took about 20 minutes, but I got it. Once you're done with your bike, you shouldn't have a problem with eating a 450R. Good luck with your build. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=65674&st=0

Search the tors question. The easiest and most redneck way of testing a coil, pull a plug wire off the spark plug. Stick a screwdriver in the end of the wire. Hold on to the very end of the plastic part of the screwdriver, so you don't get shocked. If you do, it doesn't hurt bad. Then hold the metal part of the screwdriver close to the engine(about 1/16"). Get a friend to kick the engine over. You should see a blue spark between the blade of the screwdriver and the engine.

Cutting the wires to the throttle does absolutely nothing for making it easier on the thumb. EDIT: What are you asking about a teather? I would recommend a teather kill switch. If that's what you're asking. I had to bail off my bike yesterday, so it didn't flip over on top of me. When I jumped off, the bike sat back down on all four wheels, but stayed running in 3rd gear. Needless to say, I had to run about 30 yards before I caught up with it.

I wouldn't try it right to a power source, if you did. Since it runs off a watch battery, it should be about 1.5 volts. If you did it, you would need a voltage regulator, bringing it down to that voltage. You would probably also need to convert the bike to DC, and add a battery. I would be willing to bet that if you left it like it is, the LCD would blink when you're idiling, if it would work at all since it's AC power. Just a couple of thoughts.

Dont' pay any attention to anything that comes out of a dealer's mouth. They do not know what they're talking about. 75psi is way too low. Like Snop said, no lower than 125psi. Oh, and NEVER BLOW COMPRESSED AIR THROUGH A RADIATOR! Radiators are made out of super soft metals. Compressed air can and will rip the fins off, and could cause a leak. Just use a regular water hose. Maybe put some kind of solvent on it first. As far as water impellers, billet is lighter, but stainless is stronger. It's your choice. I said it in my first post, and Snop reiterated it, get a new 16psi radiator cap. But before I worry about cooling issues, I would worry more about getting it rebuilt. I'm sure that during your rebuild, you'll accidentally fix your cooling problem.

Sit back on the seat, as far as you can. Floor the throttle, and dump the clutch. Just kiddin dude. These bikes seem like they have a tall first gear when you're taking off. Loco said it, feather the throttle when you're taking off. You'll learn it quick.

What he said. Plus you need to get them sync'd, fo sho. I pulled mine off, and somehow got them way outta sync, and it did the same thing. No exhaust out of one side. Sounded like both sides were running, but no smoke. When you put a load on it, it ran like shit on top end too. Sync'd them, and ran great. Got smoke out both sides.