2001Stroker

They're all over eBay for cheap. I got the whole master cylinder from ModQuad. This is the one I have. http://modquad-com.belmont.surgeservers.ne...products_id=980 They also have just the covers.

Maybe you can get a polished aluminum stator cover and machine the face of it to fit a peice of Lexan. Just like some of the clutch lockout covers. That would be badass. Good luck finding one that's already made.

Looks like a good buy to me. 87-89 are J-Arm frames, but this one has an A-Arm conversion. Like everyone else said, chech compression, and look for any cracks in the frame. Check the transmission fluid with a white rag. Other than that, I would get it. As far as the starting in gear question, the clutch just wasn't adjusted right in the bike that you rode. Easy fix.

Didn't know Banshee's had "Rev Limiters". What a joke.

It's probably just dripping a little when the bike's not running. When you're riding it, I would bet it isn't even dripping. Just because the engine's using the fuel up, before it has a chance to drip. It won't hurt to ride it. My petcock was leaking, only when it was switched to run or reserve. Doesn't hurt anything, just gets 2-stroke oil on everything. That was my excuse to the old lady, to buy a Pingle last week. I told her it was wasting that $7/gal gas. Maybe you can talk your woman into some new aftermarket carbs. lol.

If you have a big bore kit. If you just cleaned up the cylinders a little, then no.

x2

And look a whole hell of alot better then rigging it. Why would you want to cut off your stock headlight brackets, and then rig up some "Universal" lights in the same spot? Just buy the lights that are made for your bike. I think you'll like the way it looks, over cutting off the tabs and drilling a hole that's gonna rust eventually anyway.

If you stripped it all the way down, and cleaned up the frame, why don't you powdercoat it. Yea, it costs more, but the quality is so much better. PC will last for a very long time. You can get it done in any color, flip-flops, flakes, neons, or whatever. Just like paint, but stays shiny longer, and helps protect from rust. If you spray bomb it, it's just gonna get all scratched up, flake off, and start to rust the frame. You don't want that, get it PC'd.

Not trying to hijack, but where do you get Blue Job?

The only problem is, civil court is involved. DMV knows that. DMV ain't gonna just put someone else's name on a title, knowing that there is a mechanic's lein on it. Don't touch the thing until the lein is paid in full and the bike is in your friends name. Don't take the bike and switch frames. That's stupid. I'll put this in words that everyone will understand. Not only is it way too much work, and will be spending more money for a frame, but you're buying a potential STOLEN Banshee. Then after you buy it, you plan on chopping it, and giving it a clean VIN. How would you feel if your bike was stolen, you reported it to the police, and someone just changed the VIN so you can't get it back? There's nothing different. When the lein is not paid off, and that guy wants the bike and it ain't there, you can bet your ass it will be reported stolen. Now, you have a stolen four wheeler, that's been chopped. You ain't no better than some of the other idiots that come on here asking how to hot wire a stolen banshee. Or, where is the VIN so I can grind it off. My best advise to you is, if you want this bike that bad, wait until your friend takes care of his problems first. When it has a 100% clean title, then get it. You don't need the headache.

A mechanic's lein is totally different than a bank lein. You shoulda said that in the first post. There's civil court involved, and a bunch of b/s paperwork. I wouldn't touch it until he gets the bike in his name. Somebody else obviously owns that bike, and he's trying to get it for work that he did. If the other person pays for whatever work your friend did, he has to give the bike back. If you have the bike, then you have to give it back, or the real owner WILL report it stolen. You're getting yourself into a big mess. Don't touch that bike until the mechanic's lein is done.

It's not that bad. I've done it with 2 different boats, a jet-ski, and a truck. The sucky part is waiting for them to respond, or NOT respond. Oh I forgot, when you send the notorized papers, it has to be sent through USPS Certified Mail (signiture required upon receipt). Good luck.

Jeff at FAST is the last person that responded to this thread.

Is the lein payed off, and just not taken out of the leinholder's name? Is it titled and registered? Some states require that. If it is, PM the VIN and registration numbers to me. I'll run it through the DMV files. That would tell you who the lein is with, and their address. If you can't find the person, contact DMV. Most state DMV's will give you the paperwork that needs notorized and sent to the leinholder's last known address. If he/she doesn't respond within a certain amount of time, it belongs to you. Here, it's 15 days. And then you can get the title put in your name. It's a few extra hoops that you have to jump through, but at least you won't have to worry about it getting reported stolen by the leinholder.

You can make anything work with a torch, grinder, and a welder.

LazerStar makes billet lights to fit in your stock location. Someone just had some for sale on here last week.

I think your pistons were toasted BEFORE you crossed the wires.

IMO, it's gonna need rebuilt again soon. 110psi is kinda low. Shouldn't be under 120-125. What's the elevation there? I like his 80mph part. Nice touch. The bike looks like it's in decent shape otherwise.

Their products have went .

The pizza man must've got lost. He probably had too much air in his tires and slid off the road. Just kiddin.

If you need race fuel, then use it. It may be expensive, but an engine is more expensive. Detonation will kill a top end, quick. bansh-eman, fouldout, locogato, and a few other guys that are extremely experienced 2-strokers can tell you the formula for figuring your compression ratio. That is what you need to know when buying fuel. Don't use octane booster. It's not consistant. And just to add to bansheejoel's post, also goes by altitude.

Hopefully y'all paid through PayPal. If so, file a complaint. Hope you get your shit.

TrailTech or LazerStar. Both are just as good as the other. LazerStar's are gonna cost ya more though.

Dude, seriously. Look at your very first post. It says that the front tires say on them "MAX 5LBS OPERATING PSI". Max means maximum, no more than, do not put more than, etc.....They're idiot-proof. Same goes for the rear. 3-5lbs. I'm not trying to get shitty with you, but you keep asking the same exact question over and over. Plus, I just got off work. I'm tired and hungry.