2001Stroker

So will a clogged slow jet. Just happened to mine a couple weeks ago. All it takes is a very small peice of trash to get in there.

The only way you're gonna get rid of scratches, buy new plastic and don't ride in the trails anymore. If you're trail riding, I wouldn't worry about scratches. They add character.

You're gonna have to explain this. I have a 68mm big bore kit, and my transfers look like they have plenty of meat left.

I have SST's and PowerCore II's on my bike. They are definately a well rounded pipe and silencer combo. They hit pretty hard, and fairly low in the RPM's. I am considering getting a set of Shearer Inframes, just to compliment my motor and my aggressive riding style. I would recommend SST's to anyone who rides trail or just goofs off.

Do you have a CoolHead? They have O-Rings that go around the studs.

I forgot to mention earlier, gas is very likely to come out of the carb overflow.

Pull harder. It should come out.

Are the pipes brand new? If not, maybe they've been sitting in someone's garage, and now they have a rat or squirrel nest in one of them

That's pretty pimp lookin.

Maybe you have a small air leak that only sucks air when the engine is really sucking alot of vacuum. Check the intake gaskets and carb boot. How do your plugs look? If you have a leakdown tester, maybe check that too. You ain't losing any tranny fluid, are you?

If you're worried about the oil draining into the air box, drain the fluids before you transport. Don't forget to put the oil back in when you get there.

Any stainless bolt set that you buy is gonna be fragile going in and coming out. Stainless looks good, but is a pain in the ass trying to get them out sometimes. Everybolt needs to be Anti-Seized, and not extremely over tightened. I have mostly all stainless bolts on my bike, which I'm in the process of getting rid of. I can't even get the rear brake rotor off the hub, because the stainless bolts welded themselves on. The allen heads are stripped in all 4 of them. I tried to get them off with a pipe wrench, but they still won't come. Just get yourself some grade 8 bolts, anit-seize them, and paint the heads. It's cheaper that way, and much easier coming out. And you won't have to worry about them snapping off.

This must be the guy that had a fourwheeler strapped to the roll-up door on a U-Haul.

It's a 4 piece intake that replaces the factory one. It's billet aluminum, so it has smooth runners, and it has a crossover tube built inside. When you order them, you have to specify what size carbs you have, so they can send the right boots. Boss and ProDesign are pretty much the two better ones that I know of. I'm sure there are others. Trinity or ModQuad might make a 2 carb intake. Dunno.

You could. I just hit mine with an impact. I put Anti-Seize on the splines and threads first.

My mods are in my sig, with 185psi, and I'm at sea level. I have to use 110.

I have a 4mil long rod, big bore in my bike. It is very reliable, and never overheats. As long as you aren't doing donuts or burnout for a long time, you won't overheat it. That's any banshee though, since they don't have fans. If the pipe is loose, maybe you need some new springs for them.If you're not making lots of horsepower, I would stick with some carbon fiber Boyeson reeds. With my setup, I have 35mm carbs. But different setups call for different carbs.

Yup, about the best place to find it.

2.56 ounces. You can figure out any ratio at this site. Just scroll down to the calculator. http://www.at-speed.com/air/oil_gas_calc.html

What I was sayin, it sounds to me like the machine shop is tryin to cover up they're fuckup. That's why I said to mic the pistons. To show the shop that they ain't different sizes. What size were the old pistons/bore? Was there a lip on the top of either cylinder wall?

Looks good. The only thing I would do different, is take every other HD clutch spring out and replace it with a stock spring. 6 HD springs will be hard on the forearm. Especially if you plan on riding trail or MX. Post some more pics when you get the case all polished.

You need to mic those pistons. If you don't have a micrometer, use the machine shops. I'm sure they have a digital one, so it's easy to read. I think your machine shop fucked up. They're probably gonna owe you some jugs.

I can't believe the back glass held up.

Screw it, why not? Looks good'n tied down. Nice ghost flames on the stang LX.

Yea, I remember someone saying they read twice the actual RPM. They're not made for 2-stroke applications. Or maybe that was an eBay tach, that was just a tach and nothing else. I do remember seeing that like 6-7 months ago, though.