2001Stroker

We need to know what PSI are in the cylinders. Did you put a guage on it yet? Your compression ratio and timing dictate what octane fuel you need. Octane is only a number for rating when the gas will spark-knock. Gas is not rated Good, Better, Best. Find out what the compression is, and get back with us.

Looks like PVC pipe. Maybe he's waiting for the new ones to come in.

Come on man. You know better than that. You're gonna get clowned on bad for starting this.

Scroll down and read the Abnormal Combustion, and Pre-Ignition sections. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

Guess y'all are the few lucky ones.

Couldn't tell you what the tap size is. But, the carb leaking gas is either the float needs adjusted, or the needle seat needs replaced. Most likely, it's the float adjustment.

or lots of really bad oil. What ratio and brand are you using?

NGK-R BR8ES. Nothin else.

The way that you worded it the first time, sounded like you were opening the valve, and then "Pumping" the pedal. Pumping makes air go in the system. Didn't want people that don't know how to do it get confused. I know how the tool works, but in my opinion, and with my years of experience of being an ASE cretified technician, I've never had to use one of those tools. Pressure or gravity bleeding has always got the job done. Even with fluid having to go through ABS motors. The tool is mainly for one person bleeding, where you can't reach both the pedal and the bleeder at the same time. Example, a car. Not knocking your tool, but I just think it's a waste of money to buy one for a four wheeler.

You don't open the valve and then pump the brakes. That makes air suck into the system. That's probably why you have to buy that tool, cause you don't know how to do it right. Anybody can gravity bleed or pressure bleed a four wheeler by themselves. It doesn't take an act of god, or getting the wifey to help you. Here's a step by step instructional for both. Pressure Bleeding: 1. Fill the resevior, and tighten cap. (Cap must be on to properly pressure bleed) 2. Pump the pedal/handle until you feel some pressure build up. (Should be at least 15-20 times for first bleed) 3. Hold the pedal/handle all the way down. (During the next step, the pedal/handle will lose all pressure. Keep holding it down) 4. Crack the bleeder valve slightly, where fluid can ooze out. (Do not open it so that fluid shoots across the room) 5. Slowly release the pedal/handle. (Doing it fast will cause air to backfeed, or enter through the resevior) 6. Check fluid. Refill and tighten cap. 7. Repeat steps 2-6, checking for bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, each time that you repeat the process. Gravity Bleeding: 1. Fill the resevior, and leave cap off. (Leaving cap on is like filling a bottle with water and flipping it over. It makes bubbles. Make a vent, and it flows) 2. Take the bleeder valve completely out of the caliper. (Allows for air to escape more easily) 3. Let the system bleed on it's own for approximately 30 minutes, refilling the resevior as needed. 4. Replace and tighten the bleeder valve. 5. To get maximum pedal/handle pressure, pressure bleed at least one time. **During both processes, you can take a wrench and tap on the caliper, master cylinder, and hoses, to help push air bubbles to the bleeder. Both processes are a good way to bleed a brake system. If you follow the steps exactly for either one, and still can't get pressure, then do the other.**

If you can hear it spark knocking over that loud ass 2-stroke, that's really bad. You can use a stethoscope to listen to the engine while it has a load on it. Removing the head and checking for pits is probably the best way. Anybody else got other ideas?

I gonna email him and ask a bunch of questions.

Negative ghost rider. You turn it in until it hits, and then back it out 1/4 turn. Those arrows are useless. They're for the idiots at the factory when they build the bikes. Those arrows will never line up again, if your clutch is adjusted correctly.

Looks good man. You did the same thing I did with leaving some. I just rounded the front, instead of leaving it a point. I think it looks better with a little left. Adds character.

haha. i think i'll stick to the sweet smell of racing fuel. :nuke: haven't had too many problems with chicks not diggin it. :cool:

I just remembered. Back when I worked on cranes, we used Permatex Gasket Remover to strip 20 years worth of 10 different layers of paint. It comes in a spray can, and comes out like liquid ear wax. Just spray it on, let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, rinse with water, and wipe dry. It bubbles up when you spray it on. Try not to get any on your skin. It will irritate it.

Check your compression. I would start at +2. Make sure it isn't detonating, and then add another degree. If it's detonating, you will need to up the octane to maybe 100. You should be good though. Make sure it doesn't detonate, cause that will do some nasty damage to your pistons and head.

+4 is a good starting point, and usually where you should be. also remember, when changing your timing, you may need to upgrade on your fuel octane. that keeps you engine from spark knocking. what octane are you using now? what is your elevation? and what compression do you have? also, try to use punctuation. makes it easier to understand.

How do you post new threads, and reply? I can't find the buttons for it.

Just signed up. Hope it blows up like BHQ.

What are you trading for them?

$1.75ish for regular. $2.50ish for diesel $6.75ish for cam2

Minkia38 has like 72,643 frames for sale on here. PM him. He usually sells them for around $200, I think.

Dude, you just joined 2 months ago. You ain't no seasoned vet. Why you bashing the man's question? He's trying to learn something. Nobody did that to you when you first came to BHQ 2 months ago. Spark arrestors just make sure no spark exits the pipe. Mainly for riding in areas that require it by law. Or if you ride in areas that I ride, where it's next door to a natural gas plant.

I was just getting ready to mention the +6 crank, but I got beat to it. Not too sure about the Banshee, but typical automobile drivetrains with manual transmissions take approximately 19% of the crank power. So if the same is for a Banshee, it would amount to around 82.89 RWHP.