2001Stroker

It's all good dude. Doesn't bother me any. I think it looks pretty pimp. I do like your new sig though.

It should last through the ride, with this cold ass weather.

Damn, Jeff. That hurts man. :sweat: lol. If ya ain't breaking shit, you ain't having fun. :biggrin:

Yea, gargle salty water. Helps alot. You can't drink beer, cause of the yeast. You can drink liquor though. :biggrin:

Well, I have 185psi of cranking compression, 4* advanced, and ride my bike like an absolute maniac. I ride nothing but very aggressive trails. That thing gets ridden very hard. I've never just blown out packing.

My mom is an IT tech for the government, so I called her. Is it saying "Page Not Displayed"? She said disable firewall in McAfee or Norton, whichever one you got, then reboot. See if that will work.

I wonder why it's doing that. Is your bike running a little lean or retarded, making the exhaust too hot? I wouldn't think that the packing would blow out that fast. I just bought some CPI's. I hope that doesn't happen all the time. Never heard of anybody doing it, but maybe some carbon fiber mat would hold up better. I just sold some FMF PowerCore II's and the packing never blew out. Maybe you could try some FMF packing.

What are you using, fiberglass mat?

I went to the auto part store, and got a $2.00 o-ring that is a little thicker than the one that goes on the shaft. Killed the rattle. Haven't heard one since.

If you're worried about vibrations, get a liquid filled one. I just copied this from a post on the CRJ's. People are having problems with them not working right. QUOTE (spurdy @ Sep 28 2008, 06:03 AM) I can not keep my CRJ guage working. The battery will not maintain contact to power the LCD. Thought about soldering the battery in place but didn't want to f**k with it. Think I'll try an inline guage unless there is a reliable surface mount gauge someone had used. I keep hearing of them failing due to vibration. SP Same problem I am having with my CRJ.

You can buy a mechanical one, instead of electrical. Pesonally, I like them better anyways. If you get one with an LED backlight, LED can run on DC or AC current. Just hook the power wire to your headlight switch, so the light comes on with the headlights. These are some good ones. I think they come with peanut bulbs, but you can buy LED peanut bulbs for a couple bucks. Well known brand, for half the price. And, looks much better. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

How much money are you willing to spend? I'm sure grill paint would work, but it probably won't last long. That stuff burns off grills that only get 350*. I found out last week that chroming them will cost about $300-350, and that's if you can find a chromer that will do used pipes. JetHot seems to be the way to go. I think it's about $200 to get them done. And, you could always try high temp powder coating. Not sure how much heat it will hold. Or, just buy some high heat gloss spray paint. Get the pipes good and hot, and spray them to bake it on.

lmfao!

I hate to say it, but gas looses its octane rating pretty fast, once it's sat for about 2-3 months. Once you open that barrel, you have to use it. My personal opinion, that gas has been sitting for 12 months. The only thing it's good for, is starting the burn pile on fire. Clean your carbs, once again. Clean the tank completely out. And get new gas. Put some fresh plugs in it, and try again. Good luck.

Holy crap, that thing's a beast. Does that use a 40mm axle? Looks different. I kinda like it. Probably look better if it was chromed.

^^^^^That's about the only way.

Exactly. DMV has nothing to do with engine serial numbers, just VIN's. The cops/dispatchers have to run them through NCIC.

The police take it and return it to it's rightful owner. Then you could possibly/likely get charged for buying/receiving stolen property. It sucks, but you're expected to make sure things aren't stolen before you purchase it.

^^^^^I think they'll be a great buy.

that's pretty sexy.

Thanks for the class, dajogejr. :thumbsup: I had no clue what he was trying to say in the begining. Now I got what's being said. I was so pissed at Wiz's first sentence that I didn't even read some of his first post or anything after that. Guess if I read it, I would have knew what they were talking about. My apologies, Wiz. But, for future reference, you don't know me like that. I can't tell if you're joking or being serious. Smiley's would have helped.

Don't talk to me like I'm fuckin stupid. A case is a bottom end. Transfers and cylinders would be top end parts. I've never heard anybody call it that before. I've heard of port matching. Maybe that's why when he searched, he didn't find any posts on it. If you know something more than me, then nicely school me. Don't be a dick.

What in the world is a case port? Are you talking about porting your jugs? Send them to a well known company that does it for a living. Or, are you talking about trenching cases for a large stroke crank?

Ingersol Rand, baby. Matco uses IR, and puts their name on it. IR has the highest reverse torque in a 1/2" drive impact. I've had mine for 8 years now, and never had to rebuild it. Still kickin strong like it's brand new.

Usually, if you keep the hub nut tight, they won't wear. As soon as they get just a little loose, then they start jarring back and forth, and wear them out fast. I'm looking at buying some lonestar billet hubs and sprocket hub for mine. They have steel inserts for the splines. They look pretty beefy. I doubt very seriously it's your axle. That's hardened steel.