2001Stroker

Like I've told many people, you can make anything work with a torch, grinder, and a welder. YFZ arms are the only ones that I've seen people use. And with those, they don't just bolt right up. You have to get the conversion, which is a set of lower arm bushings. You can't just buy those at the store, they're custom made. I don't know your mechanical ability. If you don't know what you're doing, you're way better off getting some extended arms that are made for a banshee. Some people that have done the conversion like the YFZ arms, some don't. The bike will sit a little lower in the front with those arms too. You have to relocate the shock mount, or get longer shocks to make it back to the right height. You're gonna have to get YFZ spindles, so your ball joints don't get binded up. And, you might as well get YFZ twin-piston brake calipers. For the price that you are gonna spend on the whole YFZ setup, you can get arms for a banshee. AZCUSTOMQUADS can make you some out of chromoly, all tig welded, and for a good price. He's getting ready to build me some.

How much for the +4 Lonestar axle? Stock diameter?

They will fit if you have the conversion kit for YFZ's. But +2's will actually be +4-1/2" wider. And if they're +1 forward, they will actually be +1-5/8" forward. Maybe if you road raced it, and you slammed the bike, and put some street tires on it. But I just can't see the need for having a quad that's 9" wider than stock. Besides, you ain't gonna find a rear axle to go with it, unless you have a machine shop make one.

What the hell did you get cut off? 31lbs? There ain't ANY brackets left on mine, except the rear fender brackets, motor mounts, and a-arm and shock brackets.

Just hook an air hose to the valve stem, and walk away. :biggrin:

A crowbar, and a BFH. Get it up under the lip of the rim, and beat the hell out of it. Work your way around the rim until it comes off. Make sure you put a rag between the bar and the rim, so you don't gall it. It's worked for me in the past. Hope that helps.

Screw that. I get the cheap shit, so I can spend more on the banshee. :biggrin: Plus, cheap phones tend to last longer than the expensive ones. I'm way too hard on a phone to buy something that I don't need. I got a computer and a PDA at home.

I cut mine with air tools. Die grinder, then a DA sander to shape it just right. Then a heat gun to smooth the edges.

I can't get pics on my phone. If someone got some from him, can you post them? Thanks.

Torch, grinder, welder. You can make a Chevy frontend work if you wanted to. You're better off just buying the right parts for the job though.

can you pm me some pics? what weight are they set up for? i'm interested.

LED's run off either AC or DC power. Nothing special you have to do.

I have Maier plastics. The ones that I have, weren't race fronts though. They had fenders. I rode with the fenders for a long time. Then I decided to cut them off. Never noticed any difference. They really didn't do anything for stopping anything from hitting you. As long as you ain't going slow, nothing's going to hit you anyways. That 5 mph roll is what throws everything. You can see in the 2nd pic that the tires stick out past the fenders anyways. As far as Maier being good plastics, Mine have held up very good through woods riding. Absolutely no white marks, and the scratches come right out. Still shine like brand new. Before. After.

Thanks, 87. I try. :biggrin:

What a douche. Waste of an ATV.

I have that intake with FMF's. Well, had FMF's. My left filter got real close to the pipe. It never rubbed it though. Now, the left carb choke knob rubbed it a little.

I was thinking the same thing. Sure is jumping around alot. That thing should be bolted in there tight. What is the timing set at, and what size domes?

How much you looking to get? I am looking for a Fluidyne, but if the price is right, I might consider.

If you're gona be hillshooting, you want dual carbs. You need to get those RPM's up when climbing. Peterlocal posted a thread on here, where he tested both setups on a dyno. I think he said that with the single carb, you gain like 1hp from 6000-6500, and you lose topend. Not worth it. Stay with the duals.

I've never rode the Kawi, neither. But out of the Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda, I would take the YFZ450 over the others anyday.

I like those. I think I'm gonna get him to make me one, when I'm done with my build.

Just remember, if you get an aftermarket thumb throttle, you have to get rid of the TORS system, if you already haven't.

I'm not saying that he has to be the one to buy them. I'm just defending the PJ's. I'll just remind everyone about all of the very recent postings about all the problems with jetting PWK's. Granted, not a substancial amount of people have PJ's, but you don't see the people that do have them, posting problems with them. Here's a few examples that are on the first page of the jetting section. 4Mill jetting issuess 28mm Jetting 28mm Keihin PWK Jetting PLEASE HELP! Jetting suggestions with Keihin 35 PWK

Well, I gotta chime in, since I'm selling PJ's. They ain't that hard to set up. The part numbers for all the internals are the same as PWK's. Same jets, same needles, and seats. I don't see much of a difference in them. The PJ's that I have, run great. Throttle response is very crisp. If I could find some 39 or 40mm PJ's, I'd buy them for my new setup. IMO, it's like body plastics. Fullbore's are the new happening thing, so people buy them. Same concept.