2001Stroker

Why would they make it adjustable up to +10* if you were supposed to keep it at 0*. That's just their disclaimer.

Just hooked everyone up with a thread. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=105061&hl=

You got alot more patience than me brother. I don't mind buffing stuff that's already been smoothed and polished. But polishing stuff outta cast, I would send that stuff off. I hand it to you guys that do that shit. :beer:

I'm with it, depending on price. 1 sweatshirt, and 1 t-shirt.

Bought 4mil cylinders from me, and paid immediately. Great guy to deal with.

Top end, or 1/8 or 1/4 mile times? I think stock top end is somewhere around 68mph. Don't quote me on that though. Not too many people on here that have stock rides.

If LOD doesn't call dibs on the 19cc big bores, I want them. Sorry to jack your thread.

That's what they say, but.... I can't even get it to stay on a grill for more than 6 months. That stuff is junk.

All I've ever used is the o-rings. Never had to use RTV or washers. You might want to check it for straightness. Put a straight edge across it. Usually a small square will work. And yes, use a dab of grease to set the o-rings. It will hold them in place until you get the head bolted down.

As long as you have a good radiator cap, get rid of that thing. I have a 16psi cap on mine, and have never lost a single drip.

No complaints with my Pro Taper's.

Dieseling is usually caused by the timing being WAY off. When that happens though, it does stay running for a while, but only at like 100 RPM's. And when it does it, it sounds like the engine has a horrible rod knock because the detonation is so loud. An air leak will make it run at high RPM's while it's running, AND after you cut it off.

It's been mentioned before. Makes crazy angles on suspension parts. Don't even think about jumping with them.

Yup, air leak. Leaned out and ran away.

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What timing plate do you have? I can't remember which timing plate it is, but I remember reading that one of them uses a different reference point. ProDesign and Chariot use the line where the cases come apart. There's one that uses something else.

That sucks alot of people are having problems with them. I jugot mine in the mail last week, and they look great. So far, I don't have any complaints with them. The chrome shines nice, but maybe over time that will change. We'll see.

Nice write-up. Side note: I like how you cut some length off those silencers. Looks good.

Could you tell if it backfired through the exhaust or the carbs?

You sure they're genuine CPI? Maybe they were put on the inside because of copyright laws. Kinda hard to think they just stamped the wrong side.

A basic rundown, 18cc domes are for higher compression. 21cc is for lower compression. The cc number is basically for how much volume is in the dome. More compression will help give you a better low end torque, but will lose some top end. More timing will help alot down low, but will also help some through the entire rpm range. Yes, you need more octane for higher compression and advancing timing. Octane ratings are basically numbers for rating when a fuel will detonate. Adding timing and compression both make it easier for fuel to detonate, so you need more octane to prevent that. In a nutshell.

520 master links.

Here ya go.

I passed on them. They're not what I'm looking for. They have remote reserviors. They don't look bad though.