2001Stroker

Maybe it hits a little too close to home for some people. :laugh:

No problem man. That's how I found mine.

Ok. I just don't get the concept, because the paint is gonna get just as hot as the pipes did before you painted. The only time my pipes have blued, is when they're good and hot and you run through a water puddle. Try it and see how it works. I'm kinda curious now.

Marine, check this out, if you already haven't seen it.

Which is exactly why I started this thread. Use it, it's a good tool.

You could try plugging one end, and dumping acid inside. But, when the acid hits metal, it bubbles up while it's cleaning and gets hot to the touch. You would have to be careful that it didn't get on the chrome. Actually, I'll go outside tomorrow and try it on something chrome and report back to ya. Question: Why would you want to paint the inside of your pipes?

In VA, you can go to DMV's website, at www.dmvnow.com and type in different plate numbers until you find one you want, and is not already taken. Maybe you can do that in your state too.

I seen that during my venture for choosing octane. It can be done, but isn't consistant.

Muriatic acid will strip the whole thing to bare metal. But, I thought he said he was going to paint them anyways.

Yup, go to a pool store and get muriatic acid. I just bought some last week. It cost me $4.95 for a gallon. You have to dilute it with water. You have to wear rubber gloves and a full respirator when using it. Just rinse with straight water when you're done. It will strip all of the oils off, so you need to coat it with something to keep from rusting.

Judging by the price..........most likely heavy, not chromoly, and welds not x-ray'd.

You can buy Trail Tech to mount in the stock location, clamp to the frame, or bolt on like those. If you're looking for stock location, they ain't the ones. Those can be mounted anywhere you want. Most common place is probably where the front fenders bolt through the shock mount. Just use the light as a bolt for the fender.

I've always heard two different methods. Ride it, and get it up to a good running temp for like an hour, and let it cool down. Never stay the same RPM's, and keep them fairly low. Do that 3 times. Re-torque the head and jugs, and ride it. The other way that I've heard to do, is after you get it back together, ride it like you would normally. If it's ever gonna blow up, it's gonna do it right there. I've done both, and neither one has failed me. As far as oil/gas. Run what you would normally run in the engine.

Yea, mine were done before I bought the bike, by a local 2-stroke builder. They had a mild/trail port. I just sold them on here. The thing ran like a raped ape though. The cylinders that I am getting, Jeff will be putting his special touch on them.

HA! So in a sense, we were both right. That's fucked up. So basically, it's based on 80/87 octane, and they add an anti-knock agent to simulate 100/130 octane. Learn something new everyday.

Yes, higher compression requires higher octane. If you don't use higher octane, it will cause the fuel to detonate, and could blow a hole in your pistons. Is the 98 octane oxidized? If you plan using the 98 octane, you can use a 20cc dome. At sea level, 19cc domes is probably about the spot that you will need to start using race gas.

I've had aboslutely ZERO problems with my Pro Design head. Yeah, you have to replace your studs with the ones they provide. But, so what. They're nice heads. That takes all of 5 minutes. They have a compression o-ring, water jacket o-ring, an o-ring around the spark plug hole, and one around each stud. Are you saying that no other head had those o-rings? I'd like to know how they seal without o-rings around each stud.

Yes, that's the most wattage you can use before switching to a high output stator.

Well, the seasoned aeronautical dude at the local municipal airport here told me it is junk gas, kinda like farm fuel. I specifically remember him telling me that the octane rating was lower than pump gas. Not saying that either one of you are wrong, because I ain't no chemist.

Put them on here, so everyone can see your work.

Listen to the man. Save your duckies. If you plan on using those pipes that you bought from me, you probably don't want more than an aggressive trail port. Anything more than that, and those pipes will hold back the potential of the motor. You'd just be wasting money on getting a race port.

I went to the municipal airport down the street and asked them after I built my big block. They said it was like 83, I think. It was lower than regular pump gas. JP-5 and JP-8 is what they use in military jets, which is purified kerosene.

I liked the first one that you came up with. Just like the banner. But, if you go with this one, I'm with loco. Just say no to all caps. Looks cheesy.

That's outrageous for buying bulk. I can get 76Fuel and Sonoco 110octane locally for $300ish a barrel, which is $5.55/gallon. There's another guy that sells 15 gallon drums of VP110 for $90ish, which is $6.00/gallon. The 110octane at the pump around here is about $6.30/gallon. You'er paying about $1.20 more per gallon than I'm paying at the pump. And yes, there are alot of gas stations that sell it at the pump around here. You just have to put it in a container or an un-tagged vehicle that's on a trailer.

You don't see it? It's the 2009 Yamaha Banshee with clear frame and plastics. That's $5,000 extra. :biggrin: Just kiddin man. Welcome to the site.