2001Stroker

Also ModQuad, and Cascade.

handicapped porn.

Maybe you can find someone local that can powdercoat them with some hi-temp clear.

I wasn't trying to argue with anyone. I was saying that I didn't understand how this could happen, and it turned into an argument over some dumb shit. True, I've never owned a 10mil banshee engine. So what, I never said that I was an expert on them. I can take advise and constructive critisism just as good as anybody else on here. I am willing to listen to people that know their shit. I just don't like it when people come off cocky, and act like they're better than me. I've gotten a few PM's from people regarding this, and I do understand the concept now. With more power, the gears mesh together tighter, and that makes them stick a little when coming out of gear. On the flip side, I've gotten PM's from people that said they've never had this happen on their 10mil bikes, and they don't know what the fuss is all about. From the sound of it, it's a 50/50 coin flip, with your transmission shifting like crap. I don't drag race or ride in sand, like alot of you guys, so I'm gonna try it without the modifications. If I screw up the transmission, or it's hard to shift, then I guess you can say, I told ya so.

Why you gotta put down somebody's intelligence? I'm simply trying to get educated on the subject. Not bashed. All I'm sayin is, I own a 4mil in my bike, and have not had ANY problems with the tranny. Instead of putting me down, why don't you tell me what I need to do, when I go to the 10mil. I just have a hard time believing that a bigger motor would make the transmission shift harder. Show me some proof, or some threads on here where people are bitching about it. I can't find any, except this one. I can see where a bigger motor would put more stress on a transmission and make it wear out faster. I just can't see taking a perfect transmission, putting it in a bigger motor, and now all of a sudden it shifts like shit.

Well, I power-shift on the reg, and I have never had this problem. The motor that I just pulled out of my bike was a ported 4mil. It was making plenty of power. It shifted just the same whether I'm just cruising around, or power-shifting with the throttle pinned. I'm still curious if anyone else is having this problem. I know you say they are, but I can't find any threads on it.

I thought the overrides were for shifting under power without using the clutch. Kinda like manually shifting an automatic transmission. I'm not trying to be an asshole, or argue what you're saying. I'm just trying to learn something.

Ok. It still doesn't make sense to me. How much power your engine produces shouldn't have any effect on how hard your transmission shifts. Unless, something got bent, or worn out from the excessive amounts of power. I've never heard anyone else complain about this problem with cubs. I'm getting ready to start building a 10mil cub. Hope I don't have this same problem. :ermm: Anybody else had this problem with a cub?

I'm confused. What does a cub motor have to do with the way your transmission shifts? When you pull the clutch in, it should release the tension on the gears. Or, do you have an override?

It's probably a pain in the ass to shift because you have worn out parts. A transmission with good parts, shifts like a dream. You might consider checking that first, before you go breaking shit, and spending unneccessary money. Just a thought.

Yup, after you take the cir-clips out, the wrist pins just push through. You might have to use something with a soft end, to get some leverage.

Your post is kinda confusing, without any comma's or period's. Check your pickup gap. It should be set at .018"-.020". Also check plug gap. Change the spark plugs. They're cheap, so change them, even if you think they don't need to be changed. Make sure you're getting power coming from your stator. If it's fried, you won't get power to the CDI. You can't just check it by turning on the lights and kicking the motor over. The lights and stator are on 2 different circuits.

What I do if I'm losing RPM's, just keep it in the same gear with the throttle pegged, and clutch it real fast. That'll bring those RPM's right back up.

I understand exactly what you're saying. Everytime that I've ridden a bike with a shorter wheelbase, it pushes bad through turns, and you have to slow down and get up on the tank just to navigate them. IMO the turning sucks on a bike with a negative swinger, cause it's biting so good that it wants to keep it going straight. That's just my personal experience with them. I'm sure everyone has their own wheelbase that they like. For me, I can get better times sliding through turns, just like a sprint car.

I can power all the way through a jump. Mine used to dive, but I softened the rear shock a little, and made the rebound almost as slow as possible. I had to do alot of adjusting after I busted my knee on the handlebars. You'll learn. If you got the motor to get it up, then it shouldn't take too long to figure it out. If my no wheelie-ing ass can do it on a +6, I'm sure you can do it just fine on a +2 or +4.

I've only seen them on boats. They kill the spark for a fraction of a second, when you put it in gear. You never notice it. The reason behind it, is to release pressure on the transmission gears, so it will go into gear easy. They only need them since they don't have a clutch. If they didn't have them, it would be really hard to get into gear, and would grind the gears. Then, why did you reply? :ermm: :shoothead:

Startin to look good. You gonna turn them shine like a mirror?

I've seen this come up alot. Most people on here bash extended swingarms for trail riding. I have a +6 on mine, and that's pretty much all the riding I do. Aggressive trail, with some small jumps, woops, and lots of hills. I love my extended arm. I DO NOT have problems with steering, and it whips right around corners. IMO, it helps cornering because you can keep your momentum, and powerslide through them. I guess it's just what you like though. I will say, they put alot more stress on the rear shock when you jump.

Just bought some big bore domes from him. Shipped immediately, and they look great. Definately would deal with him again.

That's what shifters on boats use, because they don't have a clutch. I think you'd be wasting your money with that.

I went to the auto part store and bought 1" water heater hose and hose clamps. Cost me about $3. Worked just as good as the $50 billet ones. With the FMF's, the joint is further back, so the plastic hides them anyways.

No problem. People ask how to fix it all the time. I had to ask when it did it to me.

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