2001Stroker

Just make sure you get it trued and welded, and you'll be good.

That's what I'll be using. dajo reccommended it to me. I think that's what he uses.

Mine is a +4" axle. It's 31.25" to the shoulders that the hubs sit against. And it's 36.50" overall. You really can't go by the overall length though.

All stock motor with T-5's? IMO, you're gonna drown that motor with 34's. I would say 29's, tops. Maybe even 28's.

If you're just looking to whoop some Raptor's asses and ride trails, I would stick with the stock cylinder and get a good trail port done. Don't bore it any more than you have to. Leave some for later on down the road, if you have to rebuild again. Definately get a 4mil longrod. Get you a coolhead with 21cc domes (to stay on pump gas), adjustable timing plate (set at +4), either 33 or 35 PWK's, and some good midrange pipes. From what I've read, I wouldn't get a Cub for what you're doing with it. Cubs come pretty much drag ported. You can get more out of them, but they're made to give you a shit load of mid-top end power. You need some bottom end with a woods bike. Now if you had a bigger budget, you could get a beast of a Cheetah power valve motor. That's what I'm getting ready to build for trails and climbing. Gotta wait on income taxes though, before I get the expensive stuff.

+4 on the bigger carbs. That port job is gonna want more flow. Talk to Jeff, and see what he reccommends for you. I would say at least a set of 29's, maybe even some 33's.

How much pressure did you put in the radiator? They can't hold much more than about 20lbs. Using an air compressor might have made a leak. You're supposed to test pressure with a coolant system pressure tester. Looks like a radiator cap, with a hand pump and guage on it.

Harbor Freight sells go cart hubs for 1" keyed axle shafts. If that's what you're looking for.

haha. nice quote MJ. Mine did the same thing this past summer. Got some grit in there somehow. I just took it apart, cleaned it, greased the shaft, and put a new/thicker o-ring on it, to keep the dirt out.

I'm with loco on this. I'd almost bet that it's leaking into the cylinder. You might want to make sure it isn't. It's too easy to pull the head off and reseal it. Water DOES NOT compress. It can ruin your engine. Your piston and dome can get so pitted from water, that they look like they have a bad case of cottage cheese. Not pretty. Just pull the head off, check the o-rings, replace any that got pinched, check the head and deck for straightness, and put it back together. It takes like 10 minutes. If it did have an air pocket in it, it's possible that the head got really hot, and when water finally hit it, it warped some. I would start there, just to eliminate the head and o-rings.

This is pretty much exactly how mine looks. I just welded the plate to the center of the tubes, not the bottom. Totally hides everything.

Throttle Over Ride System. Keeps the throttle from revving up when the parking brake is engaged, and also helps from letting the engine "run away". It's a junk system, and every Banshee owner needs to take it off and smash it. If a sensor goes bad, you will have a very bad day, and it is a pain in the ass to diagnose. Just get rid of the system. Buy the kit.

Maybe this will help you out a little. If you don't know, lower numbers are higher gears, and higher numbers are lower gears.

I wouldn't use them unless your left carb is hitting the clutch. You can also get rid of that problem by investing in a Boss, ModQuad, or ProDesign type of intake. They move the carbs up and back.

Payment sent to your PayPal. Thanks.

I sent you an offer.

I'll get you a pic of what I did when I get my frame back. Mine looks just like RIPPEN's, except it's sheet metal, and welded onto the frame. His is a piece of sheet aluminum, that bolts to the front gas tank mounts, and goes towards the radiator. It has a cut-out around the steering stem. I looked for a pic of his, but can't find one. If you can find the thread of his rebuild, that's where it is.

well, since you're taking it off, just build it back up with an aluminum mig welder. If you don't have one, I'm sure there's a local company that can do it for you cheap. Just get them to build it up high, and then smooth it out with a 3M wizz wheel on an air die grinder.

killshee, that's alot of money for a single, plain color. I removed everything that wasn't being used for anything. All of the exhaust mounts (excpept the silencer mount), all wire loom tabs, rounded off the gusset at the top of the subframe, got rid of the extra holes on the rear motor mounts and rounded the gusset, old CDI/regulator bracket (moved to front), old coil mounts (made a single mount for coil/CDI/regulator behind radiator), tors bracket, and a few other things. Also made the factory welds look a little better (splatter), and re-did some of the nasty looking ones. You can pretty much take off anything, just as long as it doesn't compromise the frame's structural integrity.

I just blasted mine myself, and gave it to a local coating company. The only thing they did, is coat it. 1st coat was reflective chrome, and then 2nd coat was translucent blue. Two coats cost me $100 even, total. I haven't picked it up yet. Be getting it back after the holidays. He guarantees his work to have no imperfections, and if it peels, he said he will redo it for free. Can't beat that, IMO.

I've repaired a crack in my boat engine block with JB Weld. As long as you clean up the area real good, it will hold, no problem. I can't remember the name of the stuff, but they sell some two part epoxy for repairing cylinder walls in ship engines. It comes in an orange tub, and a black tub. I'll ask my boy that works at the shipyard what it's called.

Yea, just be careful with that type. Sometimes they like to twist on the coils. The one I have has u-bolts that go around the coils, and clamp on them.

Bring an old wheel stud up to the auto part store, and match them up. Just get one that's the right length.

Make sure you have a safe way to compress the springs. Zip ties are not safe. Then just thread the nuts off the shock body. They come powdercoated, so all you'll be doing is just changing the color. If you get them prepped right, and done by a good coater, they should hold up fine.

I just did mine. I used a bench grinder with a cotton buffing wheel on it, and some "E" then "F" polishing compound. Came out beautiful. Only took about an hour, and they were pretty dirty. I posted them up in the Images section.