2001Stroker

Wal-Mart has a set of lights that look just like the Trail Tech's, in the car section. They come in 55w, and use the same exact bulbs that Trail Tech's use. The housing is chromed plastic, just like the Trail Tech's. The only difference is, they have a mount that comes off the bottom for a bolt to go through, but you would have to make an adapter for a Banshee. Wal-Mart lights are $30.

Mine was breaking up like that too. Turned out, it was the carbs were outta sync. Just a thought.

Bush made it a federal law that all unleaded pump gas has to be at least 10% ethanol.

x2.

I know it's not a choice, but with the scheme of your bike, I would go with satin black.

Here's me trying to get opinions on a couple different motors. Cheetah PV 521 is what I am going with. Lots of good answers in this thread, from some good sources. Good luck with the build.

Take the title to DMV, and they should be able to give you a rivit-on VIN plate. You probably have to get a cop to come to the house, so he can check the bike out, and get him to sign the VIN plate request form. That's an option in VA. Don't know if they offer that in your neck of the woods.

Yea, the factory VIN stamps are real thin and not stamped deep. If you really wanted, you could buy a metal stamp set, and just stamp the numbers in deeper, so the powder coat doesn't fill them in. Even then, I don't know if you would really be able to read it. Or, you could get the powder coater to tape the VIN off, and then just PC clear over the VIN.

You're gonna have to check the NJ DMV. My guess would be, no. Here you have to have a dirver's license for a while before you can get a motorcycle endorsement, or CDL.

Ain't the kicker shafts on a sprag (one-way bearing)? Use a mechanic's stethoscope, or a long 3/8" extension to pinpoint the noise. Just stick the ratchet end of the extension in your ear, and touch the socket end all over the motor until you find it. Or, just bring it to the dealer, and let them deal with it.

I also agree. But for now, you can go to the For Sale section, then hit the search button, and type in what you're looking for. If you're in a certain section, it will only search that section, not everything else.

Your buddy has to go and take out a mechanic's lein. After a set period of time has lapsed, if the work hasn't been paid for, then he can either put it up for auction, for sale, or keep it for himself. Either way, he still has to pay off the bank. It's likely that the bank will accept a much smaller amount, but they still have to be satisfied. If he does some backdoor shit, it could still be reported stolen by the owner or bank, the owner gets his insurance money, and buys a new bike. Then when you get caught with it, you're up shit's creek without a paddle. If he doesn't do it the legal way, the way that I look at it, it's still stolen.

Looks good. I think the only thing that i would do different, is put 90* fittings on both sides, just like the pingel. That would help the front line from getting kinked, and they would both flow the same. Good job though.

Yea, you have to convert everything into inches. And yes, dome size is a negative number. I did alot of research on this topic, and I contacted a few oil companies about it. I finally got a chart for it. Contrary to popular belief, cranking psi has nothing to do with what octane you need. Port timing (or cam duration on 4-strokes) changes so much, with the static compression-vs-cranking compression. You can actually have 200psi of cranking compression, and only need 104 octane. On the other hand, you could have only 155psi, and need 110 octane. What really matters is the compression ratio.

Screw it. Put on a a drysuit and a life jacket. Tie a long rope to the grabbar, and the other end to a 4wd truck. Keep a friend on the shore and try it out. :biggrin:

My 4mil, mild port, and 35's was sucking my bowls dry. I had to buy a Pingel. It was ok for playing around, but if you layed into it for a couple minutes, the flow couldn't keep up. By the way, cool idea. I'd rather spend the $79 on a Pingel, then take the time doing what you're doing. Did you do a "flow test" on the untouched stock valve? You need to check the flow of each individual barb fitting. The straight one might be flowing more than stock was, and the one with two 90* bends might flow less than stock. Cool concept though. :thumbsup: Let us know when you get it perfected.

So hook us up with a name and number. I'm all about that. I need a 10mil crank. If you can get them that cheap, I don't mind paying international shipping and rewelding it.

The dealer should have explained the break-in process to you. Best thing to do, is call them and ask. That way they can't say you didn't break it in right when something breaks.

lightly tap the back side with a hammer, or use a dead blow hammer. try to hit low, down by the spindle.

I have seen some kind of stainless steel packing that looks kinda like steel wool. but it's alot thicker strands, so it doesn't catch on fire.

Stick a 9v battery to steel wool, and see what happens. That's what will probably happen when a spark hits it.

Happy new years. Tim, Be expecting my money real soon, now that the holidays are gone. I'll be getting you to build those a-arms soon. Thanks.

It'll change with port timing, and cam timing on a 4-stroke. 93.72% sure that spark timing won't change it.

Same here. And by a good amount too.

Holy crap dude. I had the prodesign studs in those jugs for a while. What the hell happened? A helicoil wouldn't hurt it. Just make sure that you Lock-Tite them in there. And make sure the stud screws all the way down too. Cause the Heli-Coils have that peice at the bottom that you screw them in with.