2001Stroker

What can I say? Now I'm the proud owner of the only Duncan Mighty Bar left (I'd like to think that anyways). He even polished it up nice and pretty, before he shipped it out. Thanks Memo.

Tony cub is a great guy to do business with. I bought a set of Keihin 39PWK's and K&N pod filters from him. He sent detailed pics to my email, and shipped them out fast. They came packaged very nicely, and look great. Thanks tony.

Call Kim at K&T Performance. He has a 4mil Cheetah cylinder that has one run on it. It leaned out, and he had it fixed and nikisil'd. I don't know if he still has it, but he was trying to get rid of it for cheap. I was going to buy it, but then decided to go with a 10mil instead.

I have some stock front shocks off my 2001, that are in great condition. No leaks, and tight. Let me know if you want to go a little older than 2003. I'll sell them fairly cheap.

Something nicer than OD Green, I hope. I'd probably buy one, just for those long hauls on a trailer. Keep the big ass back woods bugs from splattering on the front of the Banshee.

I like ya, just never got any PC done or bought anything from ya. As much good stuff that I hear about you, and the quality work that I see you pump out, I'd buy from you.

yea, I just verped.

Duncan does not make it anymore. He's the only person that I've been able to find with one. And no, it hasn't arrived yet.

wow. That really put a :smile: on my face.

I think only Premium Members can delete their own threads.

A little experience that I just had a couple weeks ago. For some reason, Aircraft Remover does not work on the stock PC on the engine parts. I tried the gel, the spray can, gasket remover, and muratic acid. None of it even touched it. It works wonders on everything else though. I bought Aircraft Remover from Sherwin-Williams paint store for $18 a can. Lowes and Home Depot have spray-on paint stripper that did the same thing as Aircraft Remover, for $6 a can. It knocked PC right off stuff, just like the expensive stuff.

No trenching for a 4mil. All you need is, crank, stroker domes for your head, wiseco 795 pistons. Preferably get a port job to match. I don't think I'm leaving anything out. Anyone else?

You said in your first post, that you're building a Cheetah. Are you building a Cheetah Cub, or a Cheetah?. Just wondering, cause everyone's assuming that you're building a Cub. If you're building a Cheetah, that kinda puts a different twist on everything.

Payment sent on the 10mil crank. Thanks.

65 x 65 x 54 x 2 x 0.0007854 = 358.37802 Alot easier.

358.3

Yea, you need a load on it. Warm the engine up with the old plugs. Change the plugs, and run it all the way through the top of 6th gear. Pull the clutch, and kill the engine, then coast to a stop. Use this chart to adjust the jetting.

Fuel is 5/16 brother.

regalrocket, That's some good info for all of us to know. Thanks for sharing your expertise on this, and clearing that up. :thumbsup:

That's the purpose. To dissapate heat away from the master cylinder, and keep the fluid a little cooler. It won't lower the temps much, but might help with the fluid breaking down some. Especially if you are an aggressive rider, and use the brakes alot. You're right though, they ain't big, and are a little far apart, but that's the purpose they serve. I'm sure Yamaha did some testing, and that's what they came up with.

Those look like some AEM filters for a car cold air intake system. They don't look oiled, either. K&N sells filters with either black rubber or chrome metal.

That looks good man. I've gotten addicted to polishing lately myself. Gotta love it. Question though. Why'd you grind the fins off of the rear brake master cylinder? I mean, it looks awesome without them, but they do serve a purpose. I'm sure it was easier doing it that way though. I just did mine, and it was a pain in the ass the grind all of the casting pits from between the fins. Everything looks pimpin though. Good job on it.

Anyone ever try one of these? They're ugly, but I'm sure they would keep the garage dust off. http://www.carscover.com/Yamaha-Banshee-At...r-SP4900NB.html

I've always been curious about these. Do they make it harder to steer?

Just seen this. Figured I'd dig it up from the grave. During my quest to find what octane you need for your compression, I ran into a few specs on AVGAS. I don't remember the exact numbers, but AVGAS is basically like taking farm gas, and putting additives in it to make it burn like 100 octane fuel. It actually is 80 octane, with a bunch of additives. It burns very dirty. Someone on here recently posted pics of their Banshee engine, after running AVGAS for like 30 hours, I think. Disgusting looking.